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Old 12-30-2012, 07:15 PM   #1
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Toggle Switches

Can you keep the toggle switches lighted up while parked without turning on your parking lights. When it is dark it is so hard to see the toggles without turning on additional lights or using a flashlight. I find this to be a problem for me.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #2
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No way that I know of!
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:46 PM   #3
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Would it be possible to attach a book light to your dash? One that could run off its own battery or plug into the cigarette lighter?
That way you don't have to try to run new wires to get your toggle switches to stay lit.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:56 PM   #4
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I just turn it on. Parking lights never hurt.
Maybe a miners helmet? ;-)
Just sayin...
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:57 PM   #5
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With all the toggles to deal with I would have thought this should have been considered. I find it a problem it would have been nice if this was done at the factory. I guess I'll just keep my flashlight handy.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #6
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Well, as a certified electronics technician I know the answer is YES. But it takes some work and it costs you battery life (NOT very much)

I have a bag of assorted LED's I picked up at Radio shack for something under 10 bucks.. For 12 volts Catalog number 276-1622

The problem with these is they do not specify the max current on the package so let's assume 10mA (0.010A)

In addition to this package you will need some resistors

14-2=12 12/.01 = 1200 so 1K to 1.4K at 1/2 watt should be good.

The circuit.. +12 V----Resistor---LED--_Ground

Alt ciruit.. +12V----LED----Resistor----Ground

Note that you can use either circuit.. Thus you do not need to knwo which lead is which on the polarity sensitive LED.. You try it, if it does not work turn it around

Solder resistor to one LED lead, cover with Heat Shrink Test circuit, You have the option of putting this on a small circuit board or perf board but frankly you don't have to.
Drill a hole right above or below the switch, shove the LED in from the rear, Hook up and see if it lights up, if it does, Connect the GROUND lead and temp disconnect the positive (Using the first circuit) slip some heat shrink over the POSITIVE wire, (Enough to cover from 1/2 inch up the wire to the LED) connect (Solder) slide the heat shrink over connections and resistor, Shrink Dab some GOP to both stablize the LED leads and hold the LED in place.

At 10 mA you would need 100 of these to draw 1 amp off the battery.. NOTE: if you use too big a resistor, LED lasts longer and glows dimmer.. Too small and it burns out quickly.. 1-1.5K should work well.. I normally run at least one LED assembly (12v) at 5 volts and no problems.


Alternate method.

An electronics parts store has a bunch of tube shaped things with wire out the one end Links below.

http://www.delcity.net/store/LED-Indicator-Lights/p_800791.r_IS1011?mkwid=sPTZTsQtz&crid={creative_i d}&mp_kw=led%20indicator%20lights&mp_mt=b&gclid=CI Dgu6jHw7QCFcyf4AodSj8AxQ

607-3132-130F Dialight | Mouser

608-1132-230F Dialight | Mouser

The ones I buy I get at an electronics parts store (Stick & Brick kind) they are a white tube abuut 1.45 inch long by about 1/4 inch diamater, chrome ring and colored plastic lens on one end, red and black wires out other end, You slip a "Speed nut" (Piece of spring steel) over the wires and shove it up the shaft to lock it in the hole.. Easy to hook up RED positive black negative, nice soft glow. and last a long long time.

Since you are drawn less than one amp per dozen.. You can light up a whole lot of switches with those puppies.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:09 PM   #7
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Thank you for the information.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:40 AM   #8
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The only panel I would like to light is the one right inside the entrance door. It would be easy to remove the wire going to the headlight switch that turns the switch backlighting on. Then find a hot wire and put a toggle switch inline.
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