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Old 02-18-2013, 09:04 AM   #1
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Toilet Floor Replacement Question

Hi,

I've tried searching on all the keywords I can think of and hope I'm not repeating something that's been covered.

We have pulled out the tile in our Diplomat, as well as the waferboard it was mounted on, so throughout the entire motorhome, we have one level, the subfloor, no transitions. The kitchen/living area is done. Now, the bathroom. I have cut out most of the board and we have a dilema. The toliet height - the top of the flange that the toliet sets on was even with the tile and wafer board. Now that we're removing the tile and board, the flange needs to be lowered. Looking at Thetford parts manual, I think the top of our sewer pipe has one spacer, plus the top ring that the toliet sets on to make up for the height of the tile. Now that I'm removing the tile and board and replacing all of it with laminate, the height of the toliet needs to be lowered back to the original subfloor, at least even with the new wood laminate. SO - I took out four large screws and was thinking that the flange would just come off, so I could get the spacer out of there. It seems to be all one piece from where the gasket would set, down into the floor/pipe as far as I can see with a flashlight. I'm hesitant to pry or pull too much for fear of breaking something. Does anyone know how this is put together? Or where I could go for a diagram? Or is it going to require cutting or reworking that pipe?

The new wood floor will run the entire length of the motorhome up to the bedroom entrance and I was hoping not to have any up/down transitions between 'rooms'.

Thanks for any info you may have!
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:50 AM   #2
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Vern, the flange is most likely glued to the down pipe. If you open your compartment on the side below the toilet you may be able to access the down pipe. If so you can cut the pipe, remove a small piece of it and use a collar to reconnect them using the proper pipe glue.

If your coach is like mine, the toilet is on the passenger side. The compartment below it is where the LP tank is located. There is a large removable panel toward the rear from the LP tank. Take that panel off and you will see the tanks and down pipe.

One other problem you may have if your slide is on rollers. With the tile and sub-floor removed, the rollers may not reach the new floor you install. One fellow did that and lacked about a 1/4". He had to use a board placed at the roller to allow it to roll in when closing the slide. The rollers are adjustable but not enough to make up the difference with the tile and sub-floor removed. If your new flooring is thick like hardwood, you may be OK.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #3
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Hi Dunesview, I did what you are doing in my 02 Endeavor. I started a thread back at that time "tile removal questions" if you use the search this forum feature it should show up (sorry I don't know how to link to it). I did have to cut the pipe but if you have the same access as Rex described, it really isn't hard to do. That flange is no different than a standard flange that you would find at the hardware store other than it is ABS vs PVC pipe. If yours is like mine it goes down from the toilet into a 45 elbow than a straight section before another 45 down into the holding tank. I cut the middle of that section between the 2 45's and replaced everything above it with pvc just because it(pvc) was readily available. In the straight section I connected the PVC to the ABS with a rubber coupling with c clamps. As Rex has stated your slide rollers probably won't reach the lower floor, initially I was using the space boards but I rewelded the rollers to solve the problem, that is covered in that same thread. Hope this helps, feel free to ask if any questions. The tiles are a bear to try to get loose from the OSB board when dry however if you let them sit outside in the weather for a few days the tiles will pop right up. I offered the few I had left when I discovered this, on the board here, and I had people anxious to have them (free you pay the shipping). Mark
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:28 PM   #4
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I have been using some shims around the drain pipe to have a gentle slope from the new floor to where the commode will sit on the new floor. Cutting the pipe is not necessary. All plumbing will remain intact.- just like the factory designed it.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #5
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Thanks to everyone for their input! I love this forum!!!

We're going over to work on the floor this morning, so I'll check out the compartment below the toilet to see what I think about cutting the pipe. If I chicken out with that, I'll have to make up the difference around the toilet and probably will carpet that part of the 'toliet room', then transition to the new wood floor in front of the toilet. We're putting new carpet on the slide under the couch and table and in the bedroom, so I'm sure we'll have enough for that part if needed.

As far as the rollers, that part of the living area was carpeted with the tile running only in front of the kitchen cabinets and down through to the shower and bathroom. So I'm thinking that the height difference won't be too bad and hopefully we can adjust the rollers to compensate if needed.

If you're reading this, does anyone know how many rollers there are on that long living area slide? Our motorhome is a 2002 38' Diplomat. I've read in other posts that the rollers could possibly damage the wood floor when they come in. Is that because they aren't adjusted properly, or is it the type of flooring itself? I don't want to take in the slide until we get the entire floor done, so was just anxiously wondering.

@Mark - do you know why people were interested in your old tile? We have not dumped the boards at this point and could save it if someone wanted it. Plus if they're just looking for a couple, we found 3-4 tiles way in the back of one of the cabinets that have never been used.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #6
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DunesView, your welcome, however I am only paying back for some of the help that I've gotten here.

Don't chicken out on the toilet. It would be a shame(IMHO) to go thru all the work involved in removing the tile to have to piece in the carpet around the toilet. I have no special plumbing skills and was able to make the changes without much difficulty. I can't picture in my mind what Ernie is suggesting but I understand that he has done several of these. Figure out what works best for you and go for it.

If you have the same layout as I do the rollers that are affected are the ones under the kitchen cabinets. You access the rollers thru the inside of the cabinets, there should be one at each end. I don't think that you will find that they adjust far enough once the OSB is removed. Did you remove all the OSB board from under the slide/cabinets?

I think the rollers under the cabinets are the ones that come into contact with the new floor. Most of the rollers come from the bottom up. The kitchen rollers are made by Cass-Hudson and according to them have a working wieght of 300# each. The bulk of the wieght on this system is carried by the slide track. I put down luxury vinyl tile and have not had any problems with the rollers damaging the floor, I don't think laminate would be any different. I think some slides rely on the rollers to carry much more wieght, so I think that may be the difference.

People are interested in the tiles because they tend to crack over time. That is why you have the extras, although not everyone seems to get them or they get lost in the transition to new owners. You see not everyone is as ambitious as you and I (or it may be that they are smarter and know how much work it is to remove the tile LOL) so they think that just replacing the broken tiles is enough of an improvement. If you have the tile that I think you do it was widely used by Monaco/HR and there are alot of coaches out there with them and of course there is no place to buy new ones that match. If you are so inclined put up a post and see if you get any takers.

Keep us updated on your progress and any new and improved ways you figure out to tackle the different obstacles you run into. Mark
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:40 PM   #7
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You could make a "spacer" to fit around the floor flange. Make it the same size as the bottom of the toilet. Maybe use some treated wood and then paint the edge that shows black.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:05 PM   #8
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The shims can be cedar- found at the box stores. I always glue them around the waste flange. These can be around 10 inches long, so the slope to the flange is gradual.
Rollers- 2 kinds- there are those that are mounted to the floor and the slide moves over them. Then there are those that are attached to the slide that roll on the main floor. Then there are slides that do not have them and rely on the super structure for stability. Then- there are slides that have the Teflon strips that slide over the floor.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:28 PM   #9
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Update on our bathroom floor: Yes, we have a panel that I removed to reveal the toilet drain pipe. Unfortunately, the motorhome is parked pretty close to the wall in the building and I can't get the door open all the way. So I'll fix the toilet after we pull it out this spring. So for now, I'm planning on cutting around the flange to remove the rest of the floor and finish up the wood.

@Mark - our slide is on the street side and has our table/chairs, plus the couch in it. The cabinets are on the curb side and are stationery. Our floorplan must be a bit different from yours. I'll post a meaage later on to see if anyone would be interested in the tile.

@Greg - we are friends with Tom and Tami, and camped with you and Denise at K'zoo Memorial Day a few years ago. We're the ones with the Whippets! Small world!!!

Thanks again for everyone's input. I'll try to post a finished picture when we get the mess cleaned up!
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:50 PM   #10
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Glad to hear you've decided to go ahead and replace the floor around the toilet. While you have the toilet out you may want to consider "tuning it up". The slide seal tends to go bad over a period of years, also I think it is recomened to lube the "toilet slide"

Yes we do have a different layout, the main difference being that I have a slide on both sides. I couldn't figure out how you were able to get the OSB board out without addressing the rollers that I was refering to, now it makes sense-you don't have them. I do have the dinette and sofa on the roadside but since those rollers all come from the bottom up, they are not affected.

Can't remember why but I couldn't reuse the vinyl cove base that was against the shower. Went to Lowes and was able to buy a single section that I used to replace it with.

It is a mess when your doing this however the long term benefits sure make it worth it. Will await your pictures of the completed project.
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