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01-29-2017, 01:24 AM
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#15
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Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mapleton, IL
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer
Thanks to all you guys for the good information. I am sure thinking about that wireless set up. I would like to ask you Racers if you are pulling power from your coach Generator to run your trailer 110V lights. Air comp etc. If you are would you share where and how you are doing this to get solid 110 power to the trailer?
Thanks again!
Rusty
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I just open the water bay and put the extension cable up through the access holes under the bay. There is a 120 volt plug in there and several other bays. I use a 50 extension cable ( a good one, not the cheap stuff ). Never had a problem.
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Don Higgins
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01-29-2017, 09:22 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 6,544
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I've done it two ways. In the Windsor I installed a 110v 20amp covered outdoor outlet mounted down near the trailer hitch. I connected I to the engine bay 110v outlet just above using flexible conduit. This was pretty easy.
On the Exec I ran a wire from the washer dryer breaker box in the rear of the coach down through the floor and back along the frame rail to the trailer hitch. I used multi strand 10/3 SJOOW Jacketed Cable rated at 30 Amps. I installed a larger covered 30amp twist lock outdoor outlet. This turned out very nice and I am able to power most anything in the trailer.
__________________
97 Monaco Windsor- Sold
07 Monaco Executive McKinley- Sold
04 Monaco Signature Chateau IV
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01-29-2017, 03:28 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 527
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OK guys thanks for all the good info!
Rusty
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01-30-2017, 08:16 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Johnson City, TX
Posts: 1,060
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The brake controller came in over the weekend, but I was out of town. I'm going to play with pairing it up this evening, then tomorrow I'm hoping to mount it to the trailer so we can take everything for a test drive behind my truck.
The trailer unit is large and heavy. I didn't think about it having a battery in it, which when it arrived I recalled that it does have a battery. I will have to mount it with the supplied screws, which will make it more difficult to move from trailer to trailer, but maybe when I'm in need to do this often, I'll come up with an easier solution.
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2018 Rockwood 2304DS Ultra Light pulled by 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4
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01-30-2017, 07:20 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 527
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Please keep us posted!
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01-31-2017, 09:09 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Johnson City, TX
Posts: 1,060
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We played around with it last night. Here are my impressions:
The control box is very large. Mounting it to the tow dolly would be a challenge.
The cord is very long. Excessively long. It would be very difficult to coil it up in a manner that would not cause some sort of interference.
Pairing it was not as hard as the reviews on Amazon made it out to be. It was pretty easy actually.
I found a few items that are going to cause me to send it back:
1. The unit does not work as I expected. I thought it would be only inertia based, but this is not the case. It works off the brake light just as any other brake controller, which means I'll have the same interference from the engine brake as I would with a normal controller.
2. I have found that I likely have the wiring in place for a normal brake controller, at the dash. This removes my concern regarding the need to run a brake line to the 7 pin connector. I'll be confirming this today before I send it back.
3. I do not have power at the "battery charge" pin on the RV. This would require me to run this line, something I was trying to avoid. My truck does, so we did our testing on my Chevy 2500 HD.
4. And of course I'm not happy with the size of the controller box which must be installed on the trailer, nor am I happy with the length of the cord.
Overall, I would say if you have a rig with no brake controller wire run, and if you already have 12v "battery charge" line at the connector or if you could easily add this, this is a viable solution. It was pretty easy to pair the system, and it seems to work as intended. I thought it would be easy to move from vehicle to vehicle and trailer to trailer, which is one of the ways it is advertised. But in reality, this would be very difficult.
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2018 Rockwood 2304DS Ultra Light pulled by 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4
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02-01-2017, 08:33 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Johnson City, TX
Posts: 1,060
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Well, I'm more back and forth than a politician.
A little more digging and it turns out my coach does not have the wiring run for trailer brakes. So, I'm going to try and make this work.
Anyone have information on how to disable the brake light when using the engine brake? One said it was a fuse, but I did not see a fuse for this in my wiring diagrams, and I have not been able to find the chassis 12v fuses.
__________________
2018 Rockwood 2304DS Ultra Light pulled by 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4
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02-01-2017, 07:29 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 6,544
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If you use the Tekonsha P3 controller, it senses deceleration and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. I haven't had an issue with the engine brake, it all works seamlessly.
Pictures of the 30a Twist Lock receptacle mounted to the side of the trailer hitch support.
__________________
97 Monaco Windsor- Sold
07 Monaco Executive McKinley- Sold
04 Monaco Signature Chateau IV
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02-02-2017, 07:20 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Johnson City, TX
Posts: 1,060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a
If you use the Tekonsha P3 controller, it senses deceleration and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. I haven't had an issue with the engine brake, it all works seamlessly.
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I am using the Tekonsha 90250 RF Remote Brake Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P0ZA86
My RV is not pre-wired for trailer brakes, and I am currently too lazy to take the dash apart and try to work out the wiring and to run the wire down the coach. The previous owner purchased the wiring diagram book, but digging through it I cannot find what I need, and really don't want to go into the dash.
Last night (evening) I worked on the RV some more. I took apart the 7 pin connector and went through it wire by wire. I found the ground is bad (which never works well on a trailer) and have a solution for that, and I wired in a wire for the 12v "battery charge" pin. I thought finding a keyed 12v source in the engine compartment would be easy, but I can only find constant 12v.
Now, while I was doing all this, it hit me that all I have to do to eliminate the trailer brake while descending through the Rockies is turn the power down to zero. That will prevent burning up the brakes when using engine brake only.
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2018 Rockwood 2304DS Ultra Light pulled by 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4
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02-02-2017, 12:49 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 245
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Rusty, RobbieH - I have been using the Prodigy RF for several years - it works great. My coach does not turn the brake lights on while using the engine brake - mine is a compression brake - not an exhaust brake. Not sure if it was programmed that way - or if there is something disconnected or what - never looked into it too much as it works the way I want it to - having previously warped a set of trailer drums coming down Vail and Eisenhower passes in Colorado due to a similar issue. Rusty asked about weight - my coach travel ready scales at 31,360 lbs. the trailer is 10,260 lbs. The coach is rated to 45k gross combined, and the hitch is rated at 10k, so I am good on gross combined, pushing it a little on the hitch rating. When at the track I do exactly the same thing as Eagle - works fine for me. The only issue I have run into regarding the brake controller is that after it is idle for a while it shuts off the 12v feed through (charge wire) to the trailer. since I normally use the converter in the coach to keep the battery charged in the trailer - if it is going to be setting a while I make sure to plug the trailer 110v in ( the trailer has its own charger). The trailer has more stuff in it than it probably should - I'm a terrible Packrat. wish it had some of that Crew Chief Pro software Eagle has.... the old Performaire stuff is pretty glitchy on my old Vista laptop...
Thanks,
Kurt.
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99 Executive 38 M11 450
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02-02-2017, 12:55 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Johnson City, TX
Posts: 1,060
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Mine is compression brake also, so maybe it doesn't trigger my brake lights.
__________________
2018 Rockwood 2304DS Ultra Light pulled by 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4
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02-02-2017, 04:26 PM
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#26
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Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mapleton, IL
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a
If you use the Tekonsha P3 controller, it senses deceleration and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. I haven't had an issue with the engine brake, it all works seamlessly.
Pictures of the 30a Twist Lock receptacle mounted to the side of the trailer hitch support.
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Are you going to the race in Phoenix or Vegas? I would like to see how you wired that in.
__________________
Don Higgins
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02-03-2017, 09:21 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 527
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Brake control
Vito I like your 30 amp plug.
You guys are making this hard on this brake controller! What type of Battery does it have in the unit on the tongue and you have had yours 5 years and still going? just wondering what the cost will be in the future for a new Battery too.
Thanks guys for posting!
Rusty
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02-03-2017, 12:24 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbieH
By the way, it isn't a relay that you need. It's a diode, or some sort of manual switch.
I guess I'm kind of lucky, etrailer (Southwest Wheel) is in my city.
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I'm a little late to the party but a diode will work or a switch. I however, used a relay for the fact that I wanted my trailer brake controller to function normally for the majority of the time. So I wired a relay and used the NC contacts for the control wire from the brake switch. Then I have a toggle switch on the switch panel labeled TRL BRK and when I activate this switch it activates the relay therefore opening the control circuit from the brake switch and not allowing the brake controller to activate. I like this feature so when I have the engine compression brake (Jake Brake) activated, my trailer brakes are not being applied and overheating coming down a steep grade. Been towing our trailer this way for the past 10 years now and works like a charm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer
Eagle, What size trailer are you pulling? I will be pulling 8Klb 32' race car deal. just wondering if you are pulling a large unit like this.
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I have been towing a 26' Haulmark Edge weighing approx. 12.5k pounds around most of the western U.S. for the past 10 years and it tows great. There were times however, that I wish I had a bit more power but for the most part it has done great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer
Thanks to all you guys for the good information. I am sure thinking about that wireless set up. I would like to ask you Racers if you are pulling power from your coach Generator to run your trailer 110V lights. Air comp etc. If you are would you share where and how you are doing this to get solid 110 power to the trailer?
Thanks again!
Rusty
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I did almost the exact same thing that Vito did above with the exception that I used some marine components and mounted the electrical outlet just under the engine bay for a shorter run. Prior to that when we first purchased the coach back in 2007 I just ran the extension cord for the trailer up through the floor access into the basement and used an existing electrical outlet. I much prefer the one back by the engine bay as less evasive to connect once we arrived at our destination. Runs the 110VAC lights, outlets and air compressor in the trailer perfectly.
Mike.
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