I've towed large enclosed race trailers around for many years and have a couple of suggestions. Our last one was a 26' Haulmark Edge race trailer and after getting out of racing I hauled our Harley Davidson and Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for a couple of years before selling it and going solely to flat towing. I really enjoyed hauling my trailers with all three of our coaches over the past 25+ years. I actually miss my trailer much of the time.
First, I wouldn't suggest a really short trailer. Yes there is less weight but I have found a longer trailer tows better and much easier to maneuver. Personally I wouldn't go any shorter than about 20'. I would recommend purchasing one with an extended tongue, some trailer manufacturers refer to this as an "RV tongue".
Second, I would suggest tandem axles as they ride so much better and smoother and recommend brakes on both. Get a good quality trailer brake controller for using from the cockpit.
Pertaining to trailer brakes, if you have an exhaust brake setup determine if the brake lights are activated when the exhaust brake is engaged. It can be hit and miss with Monaco products but most of the ones I have worked on activate the brake lights WITH the exhaust brake. When you tie the brake controller into the braking circuit the best and easiest way is usually into the brake light circuit. This works great BUT the only downside is that when you activate your exhaust brake (or engine compression brake) the trailer brakes will also be engaged. This is not ideal on long downhill grades. I have seen people smoke their trailer brakes and not even realize it.
I put a normally closed relay in line with my trailer brake controller with a toggle switch located right nest to my shift control pad. Under normal driving conditions the relay is closed and the signal goes from the brake switch to the brake controller and to the trailer brakes normally without interruption. However, when I am descending a long grade I simply flip the toggle switch, which also illuminates the rocker switch to indicate it is in the bypass position, and the signal from the brake switch to the trailer brake controller is interrupted and does not activate the trailer brakes. This allows the coach to be slowed with the exhaust brake (or engine compression brake) but does not drag the trailer brakes along causing them to overheat.
It is simple and quick to switch back and forth and generally left in the normal position unless I don't want my trailer brakes activated on long downhill grades.
I had my enclosed trailer equipped with a rear view camera on the back of the trailer that I could toggle between the one on the back of the coach and the back of the trailer as well as one located inside the trailer where I could keep an eye on the contents of the trailer when traveling but in hindsight I don't know if I would do that again. It was a lot of work and in well over 100k miles of hauling enclosed trailers, I never had any cargo move enough to worry about and my mirrors looking down the sides worked perfect for normal driving. I was 72' long bumper to bumper and don't think I would have added the extra cameras if I were to do it again.
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