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Old 11-26-2019, 07:03 PM   #15
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Hum, not leaking at idle
That cooler does not see high pressure, it is return flow to the tank (I think). I would bet it sees under 100 PSI if that.

I resealed mine by taking it to a radiator shop. Depending on where the leak is they may be able to fix it for a hundred or two and in a day rather than waiting for fabrication of a new unit. Pretty easily removed also if you want to send it out for testing.
Yes, a hose can cause this also so good idea on replacing the hoses, cheap easy attempt.

Fire, yes, absolutely you do NOT want to be spraying transmission fluid all over your exhaust and turbo. I like the transmission bypass hose idea very much. Very easy to make and install, great idea by Happycarz.

Now the bad news, if it is only leaking when driving that tells me a couple of things.
1, maybe only leaking when the temperature is elevated causing the fluid to be thinner and easier to leak.
2, increased circulation at higher RPM maybe is exacerbating the leak.
3, the leak is actually coming from the hydraulic fan, hose or controller and is leaking when being taxed.

Certainly more possibilities but those 3 pop to mind.

Cleaning is important as it will take you to the leak with less effort and reduce the possibility of fire, however if you are seeing fluid all over after a few miles, you should be able to track the leak down without a major detail clean up.

If you know how to use your idle up, get it cleaned and run it on high idle (1600 RPM) for a while. It will take 45 minutes or so to warm up even at that RPM. But that will put your flows, temperatures and pressures all at an elevated level and the leak should make itself known.

Watch that fan (and engine belts), don't get your hands or loose clothing near them! Have hearing protection and good flashlight also so you can investigate more easily.

Everyone is on different levels and has different abilities so just do what you can do but please be safe.

Generally speaking, gravity wins and fluid leaks are above the wet spot. Air flow from the radiator can influence that but only so much.
Windecker




Quote:
Originally Posted by 2008DYN View Post
Not sure. Going to replace the second hose and clean everything as best as I can. It doesnít leak at idle. I will be traveling ten miles in two months. If it still leaks I will look at the cooler or something else. Did your cooler leak at idle? How could you tell it was the cooler. Where did you turn to get a replacement? Btw, thanks for the reply.
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Old 11-26-2019, 07:48 PM   #16
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I have had to zipstrip strips of rags or paper towels to fittings before to find leaks, in some places we have a lot of stainless piping that can get filthy then wet with solvent. Sometimes disturbing or trying to tighten SS pipes and unions that are not leaking can get you in trouble. You never know if union will seize up on you and ruin your day.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:30 AM   #17
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In our case as soon as we removed the grill covering the radiator stack it was immediately apparent it was a cooler leak. Also as we were at first trying to troubleshoot before removing the grill, it seemed to stop leaking, kind of what you are describing. There is almost a trough under the stack that while especially at idle and not moving contains the leak.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windecker View Post
Hum, not leaking at idle

That cooler does not see high pressure, it is return flow to the tank (I think). I would bet it sees under 100 PSI if that.



I resealed mine by taking it to a radiator shop. Depending on where the leak is they may be able to fix it for a hundred or two and in a day rather than waiting for fabrication of a new unit. Pretty easily removed also if you want to send it out for testing.

Yes, a hose can cause this also so good idea on replacing the hoses, cheap easy attempt.



Fire, yes, absolutely you do NOT want to be spraying transmission fluid all over your exhaust and turbo. I like the transmission bypass hose idea very much. Very easy to make and install, great idea by Happycarz.



Now the bad news, if it is only leaking when driving that tells me a couple of things.

1, maybe only leaking when the temperature is elevated causing the fluid to be thinner and easier to leak.

2, increased circulation at higher RPM maybe is exacerbating the leak.

3, the leak is actually coming from the hydraulic fan, hose or controller and is leaking when being taxed.



Certainly more possibilities but those 3 pop to mind.



Cleaning is important as it will take you to the leak with less effort and reduce the possibility of fire, however if you are seeing fluid all over after a few miles, you should be able to track the leak down without a major detail clean up.



If you know how to use your idle up, get it cleaned and run it on high idle (1600 RPM) for a while. It will take 45 minutes or so to warm up even at that RPM. But that will put your flows, temperatures and pressures all at an elevated level and the leak should make itself known.



Watch that fan (and engine belts), don't get your hands or loose clothing near them! Have hearing protection and good flashlight also so you can investigate more easily.



Everyone is on different levels and has different abilities so just do what you can do but please be safe.



Generally speaking, gravity wins and fluid leaks are above the wet spot. Air flow from the radiator can influence that but only so much.

Windecker


Thanks for the great reply and info. The hydraulic hoses go from the reservoir to the fan then to the front of the coach. Most likely to the slideout manifold and I d guess the power steering box as well. I donít think the fluid has to warm up to leak. After being at one campsite we had to move to another. Drove less then one mile and had noticeable leaking. Iíve been spraying various parts of the engine bay then hosing it down to clean up the fluid spray. Iíll message Happycarz to see how he fabricated his bye pass setup. I donít know Iíd use this unless as a last resort. Once I get underway we will be traveling 1600 miles in four days. Must have this diagnosed and fixed before then. Thanks again.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:34 PM   #19
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Take a look at Simple Green Purple for use on aluminum.

As for your leak, do what my buddy did and have a hydraulic hose shop make a cooler bypass hose. That way you can make it back to home base and get a new cooler. My buddy made it across the country with the bypass hose in place and watched the trans temperature to keep it in check. Try to keep it below 225į.

The coolers most of the time need to be made. My buddy, as well as other folks here have used Source Engineering to get their gold plated cooler. Gold plated, as in expensive.

Bill Willard and I now carry a cooler bypass hose in our onboard parts bin.


Thanks for replying. What would a bye pass hose setup look like. How would I go about keeping the temperature down? What about Krud brand degreaser.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:38 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
I have had to zipstrip strips of rags or paper towels to fittings before to find leaks, in some places we have a lot of stainless piping that can get filthy then wet with solvent. Sometimes disturbing or trying to tighten SS pipes and unions that are not leaking can get you in trouble. You never know if union will seize up on you and ruin your day.


Thanks for the reply. Other then the remaining hose donít thing Iím going any further tightening anything else. Will then turn my attention to the cooler.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:41 PM   #21
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In our case as soon as we removed the grill covering the radiator stack it was immediately apparent it was a cooler leak. Also as we were at first trying to troubleshoot before removing the grill, it seemed to stop leaking, kind of what you are describing. There is almost a trough under the stack that while especially at idle and not moving contains the leak.


Yes I do have some sort of trough or pan that the fluid is traveling from. If the other hose is not the culprit then the radiator cooler is next. Found someone who is very familiar with this setup so maybe he and I can get this thing fixed. Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-28-2019, 09:46 AM   #22
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I had exactly the same problem and it was my cooler as well. I contacted Source Engineering in Coburg Oregon and they were able to get me one made and shipped around $1200. It was leaking when I purchased it and Motorhome Specialist sent it out and had a radiator repair shop fix it and that bought me just a little over a year. Thereís a lot of vibration that happens back there. I was able to do the work myself and took the opportunity to change the fluid out completely as well. Forced maintenance I guess. 😁
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:25 AM   #23
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I had exactly the same problem and it was my cooler as well. I contacted Source Engineering in Coburg Oregon and they were able to get me one made and shipped around $1200. It was leaking when I purchased it and Motorhome Specialist sent it out and had a radiator repair shop fix it and that bought me just a little over a year. Thereís a lot of vibration that happens back there. I was able to do the work myself and took the opportunity to change the fluid out completely as well. Forced maintenance I guess.


Thank you for responding. Iím going to still hold out hope itís the other hydraulic hose or brass fitting going in to the back of radiator housing. Based upon all the responses like yours the next logical culprit is the trans cooler. Thanks again.
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Old 11-29-2019, 11:32 AM   #24
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Thank you for responding. Iím going to still hold out hope itís the other hydraulic hose or brass fitting going in to the back of radiator housing. Based upon all the responses like yours the next logical culprit is the trans cooler. Thanks again.
Just a thought, if you take off the louvered panel, only several bolts, easy, you should immediately see where the leak is, and I think if it's red it is probably a hydraulic leak. JMHO
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Old 11-30-2019, 09:12 PM   #25
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Just a thought, if you take off the louvered panel, only several bolts, easy, you should immediately see where the leak is, and I think if it's red it is probably a hydraulic leak. JMHO


Thanks for responding. I will do just that and hope the problem is easily found.
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