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Old 04-30-2021, 06:01 PM   #1
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TRW swap

Hey, so I got the box swap done but even after an alignment it’s pulling to the right. I have a feeling the guys did not get the line up right on the steering box and now the trw is not sitting at the top when going straight.

Does that seem like a possibility?

Crazy knight your pm is full could not send this to you.
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Old 05-01-2021, 09:38 AM   #2
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Hi I just had the steering box swapped over the coach is like night and day on the ruts 0n the highway.b Josam in Orlando did it
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Old 05-09-2021, 07:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biljol View Post
Hey, so I got the box swap done but even after an alignment it’s pulling to the right. I have a feeling the guys did not get the line up right on the steering box and now the trw is not sitting at the top when going straight.

Does that seem like a possibility?

Crazy knight your pm is full could not send this to you.
Greetings. Headed to Josams to get mine aligned tomorrow. I won't go into a lot of details but this is the third alignment for me. This one is because of some experimenting by me after all the mods that can be done.

Watts links, front and back.
X bars in the back,
New TRW steering box,
New shocks,
Source Engineering sway bars,
Source Engineering ride check valves,

Intstalled a safe-t-plus to try to help once all the mods were done to help keep it centered. I built a trim kit for it to help with the "Pull to the right". It compensated but added too much wheel effort as far as I was concerned. It was NOT the solution and it now rests in the landfill.

I decided to remove the shims the previous alignment shop had installed between the axel and frame part. Doing that at home in the driveway was doable but it was a one way street. No way could I re-install them myself.
I sure wish I had NOT done that now and will pay for my education tomorrow but will be happy with the knowledge that everything that can be done is and can share the expensive lesson.

A couple of the really creative folks on the steering link thread worked heavily on the issue of pulling to the right. Going so far as building some sort of thrust angle adjustment but alas, their efforts were for not.

One of them has some experience in the past with weighing vehicles and doing precise tire pressure setting. He will likely chime in here with more details.

His solution is simple and I will not get into any arguments weather it works or not or is proper. I can tell you it has worked for me and I can’t be happier.

After the alignment I will be glad to experiment and share those results but I suspect the adjustment will need to be even less.

The brainy buddy asked about the weight of the rv and mentioned I probably had a refer on the right and loaded things heavy on that side as well. Of course that is natural for me.

So the solution is to run about ten pounds higher on the right side of the rv. Not exceeding any (perfect pressure for weight).. The rolling resistance becomes a bit less and seems to have solved the mysterious pulling to the right.
I have heard the pulling to the right issue for many years and no workable solutions have come up.

If you have the print out of the alignment I would love to have it to print out for the tech. If you have his name that would be great and maybe I can discuss the pulling to the right issue.

Did they do a test drive before and after???

After removing the shims the steering effort increased, it felt like the safe-t-plus had been reinstalled. So going down the road and making all those minute changes from road bumps and humps the pressure to turn the wheel is noticeable.

This dangerous white knuckle beast has been tamed over the years and probably the reason I only have 50K miles on it was do to the scary white knuckle handling it once had. Diverting your eyes the buttons for just a second could be fatal in those days. Not exaggerating and I'm sure many folks have experienced that.
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Old 05-09-2021, 07:28 AM   #4
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The alinement I had done after the swap says if anything it would pull to the left.

Weight is equally both sides of the front. Never pulled with the shepherd box.

I have been able to confirm that the pitman arm is not centered by about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. 2 and 1/2 left way and and 2 and 1/8 right.

They are going to “more” center the pitman arm this week.

I can live with the turn/roll issue but not the pull to the right.

I think that the self centering/return feature is trying to get the box back to center and that is causing the pull. Or it’s not on the “high spot”.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:08 AM   #5
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I am just throwing this out there because of the difference in drivability in my coach after adjusting ride height and making a very small change to make the coach plumb to the ground. Hear is a little detail. I noticed my coach leaned to the right while on level ground confirmed with a level. So I made the ride adjustments to get it to the proper ride height. I placed a level on the coach body to see if the side was plumb to the ground. It was still leaning so I went up a little on one side and down a little on the other side to get it perfect. The coach seemed to handle better needing far less corrections. My thinking is we are pushing a wall down the road that is moving a lot of air, so it made sense to me to have the coach running as close to straight to the road as possible.
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:56 AM   #6
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I am on my second Monaco with a RR8R chassis. I change my ride height to make the coach lean slightly to the left or to the drivers side because most roads have a crown. To me this really helps.
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Old 05-09-2021, 11:46 AM   #7
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Great idea on the ride height. I may give that a try.

The TRW should have been adjusted when installed to be centered. The steering wheel often has to be re-centered but that is a simple adjustment. Take the inside column off and there should be a u joint where you can disconnect and move the wheel.
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Old 05-09-2021, 12:37 PM   #8
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I am on my second Monaco with a RR8R chassis. I change my ride height to make the coach lean slightly to the left or to the drivers side because most roads have a crown. To me this really helps.
Funny you said that, my coach was leaning to the right about 1 1/8 inch measured from the body line above the rear tires. I set the ride height by the book and used a level for plumb.
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Old 05-09-2021, 12:41 PM   #9
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I am on my second Monaco with a RR8R chassis. I change my ride height to make the coach lean slightly to the left or to the drivers side because most roads have a crown. To me this really helps.



I have never seen a chassis maker/engineer OR alignment shop recommend this.


Any concurrence from any of them on doing this? Would love to see it.
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Old 05-09-2021, 01:17 PM   #10
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Sometimes things just work. Had not thought about the angle of attack to the relative wind. A tiny pitch on that huge sail could make a large difference.

I have not adjusted mine in years and built templates to check them.

It is an easy enough adjustment in any case and worth a look.

Building an airplane kit "by the book" caused some wing heavy builds. In short, one wing root was a tiny bit lower than another. A sharp tech advisor spotted mine and I corrected it. Just 1/4 of an inch off. Mine flew hands off and level.
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Old 05-09-2021, 01:58 PM   #11
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yes drive before and after. they have all the specs. say hi to Barry from Steve he did my box on 4-1-21 he a super nice guy to work with. it will be right or he will not let you leave with it.
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:31 PM   #12
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yes drive before and after. they have all the specs. say hi to Barry from Steve he did my box on 4-1-21 he a super nice guy to work with. it will be right or he will not let you leave with it.
I will try to remember that. Good to know, it was Barry that I talked to.

Just did a HP uprate on my 2008 isl from 400 to 450 hp. Very very nice uprate and decent price since it is far out of warranty.
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Old 05-10-2021, 08:56 AM   #13
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I thought the air bags would adjust for the road crown while driving rather than needing to adjust level of motorhome?
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Old 05-10-2021, 09:57 AM   #14
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No the air bags do not know the level of my coach it’s just the hight from the axel to the frame. I am sure that’s a difference from air leveling to having jacks.
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