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Old 11-03-2012, 10:05 AM   #1
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Tv lift

2005 Sig
Tv lift button is not raising the tv
Checked the fuse -ok
Button light comes on when pressed
My guess would be a reversing relay??
Any clue on how I can fix this without going back to NIRC for the 6 th day in a row
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:43 PM   #2
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Steve, did you ever resolve this earlier problem that you posted?

"While we are talking about fuses, the accessories/ 12v sig lighter failed on my drive to Dallas
I checked "dash 12v" that's ok but can't find the acc fuse in the 05 signature.
3 hrs of searching and reading the specs
I am at a service centre, the tech is having a similar issue so at $120/ hr can someone with the knowledge please share it with me"

Sounds like you may have some related problems. Since you are seeing a light on the switch coming on, I also would suspect some type of relay.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:16 PM   #3
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Re sig. Lighter

Turned out one was faulty and the other disconnected
So that problem was solved
The tv gad been up and down more times than a brides nightie over the last few days as a new 40" Samsung was installed
It just stopped working this morning
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:51 PM   #4
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Try clicking the switch twice instead of once. It works for me.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:31 PM   #5
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Ross, is correct that you can hit the switch twice and it will reverse direction. Here is the data I have on the lift. Hope it helps.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TV Lift Instructions.pdf (818.1 KB, 150 views)
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:20 AM   #6
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Tried that as instructed

No movement
No clicking
Zip
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:21 AM   #7
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Sorry

Also Mike there is no link to the data on the tv lift
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:31 AM   #8
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Steve it opens just fine from my post. Email me at mike.c@mindspring.com and I will send it to you directly.

If no click, hum or movement then it sure sounds like a fuse or breaker. It takes both 12 volts and 120 volts to operate. The 12 volts for the control module comes from the 12 volt house fuse box located either in the bedroom or the bathroom. The 120 volts for the lift motor comes from your breaker box and your inverter. It also uses 12 volts from the ignition switch to a lockout control that is located above the drivers head.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:47 PM   #9
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We were preparing to leave Vineyards to take the coach back to NIRC and guess what none of the slides would go in
I rang the service dept and Todd said to reset the salesmans switch - off then on
By magic the slides worked and so did the tv lift
Todd said peculiar to castle 1v floor plan this is a bug with only one solution.
Another problem solved
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSkinner View Post
reset the salesmans switch - off then on
Another problem solved
Whenever I hear this curing a problem, I believe that contacts inside the solenoid(s) that the saleman switch controls as possibly becoming burnt and/or pitted.
Or not?
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:22 PM   #11
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Just bypass the thing it serves no real purpose. There are lots of threads on how to bypass the salesman relay.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:42 PM   #12
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Lets put some logic behind what Steve found out. According to Monaco Tech this is a unique problem with the Signature Castle IV so therefore has nothing to do with burned contacts in the Salesman Switch Solenoid. If you bypass the solenoid then how will you be able to reset the slides and the TV lift if it happens again in the future? You can't so you are stuck. I personally do not believe in bypassing anything. I want my MH to be exactly the way it was intended. If you bypass and jury rig too many things then the wiring diagrams don't mean anything anymore and you got to remember everything you did. I guess I have too many years working on and designing aircraft. Can't imagine bypassing something on a fighter because I don't believe it does any good.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:26 PM   #13
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Good point Mike and I agree 100%. The people designing these "mini shuttles" are way ahead of me in design and engineering. Sometimes I do question their placement of systems as I try to get to them to fix. But in the end, I usually understand what they were trying to do within the constraints they have. I will always try to repair and or replace based on the original design and not "bypass" unless I need to get off the road safely or back home without creating anymore problems. Thanks for your input.
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