Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-26-2022, 07:00 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
pflightnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 198
Unwinterized and now TWO!! faucet leaks

I'm late un-winterizing this year due to my 12/30/21 back surgery. I winterize with air, and use the pink antifreeze only for p-traps, toilets, and washer.
Everything started out well. The water pressure came up and held steady using the water pump. I hadn't un-bypassed the water heater and started letting the air out of the lines one by one at each faucet. I noticed the back bathroom faucet was running a very thin stream of water when shut off (couldn't tell if it's the hot or the cold since the water heater was still empty). Then the front bath did almost the same thing, more of a fast drip than a stream.

Apart from the obvious, which seems to be dried out seals or O-rings in need of some plumbers grease, does anyone have an idea what might be wrong? I suspect these are the original bath faucets. They seem pretty high quality. I haven't checked carefully to see what brand, but may buy a kit before I tear them apart.

The water heater filled fine when I took it off bypass. However, after re-running the faucets, the problem was the same. It's been hot (90's and 100's now and then) in Georgia, so maybe the seals just dried out from the heat.

Are RV faucets any different from house faucets, and if so, give me a heads up of what to watch out for. I don't care much for the low-quality plastic faucets seen so often these days, and I'm open to suggestions for substitutes.
__________________
Steve P
2008 Monaco Knight 40DFT
2014 Honda CR-V LX toad
pflightnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-26-2022, 08:12 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
153stars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 5,879
If they look high quality, same as home faucets.There are some cheap RV supply faucets and shower faucets in trailers. Single handle have/use cartridges . Double handle are easier to stop leaking by ,most have rubber washers that close against a seat. The shower would be much easier to rebuilt/change cartridge than replace.
__________________
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
153stars is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2022, 06:54 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
RobRoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,608
1. Perhaps take a few pics post them here and some members may recognize the type and brand and also post pics on google image search and you may find your answer.

2. Disassemble one with lots of pics and take to the local plumbing supply they will most likely how to repair them or what to use as replacements.


ps: in the past I've taken my fair share of flack for using rv anti-freeze only to winterize and cycling it thru everything including my washing machine .... but I have always done so because I've never like the idea of the possibility of DRY'ed up fittings and seals.

In the spring @ 20 gal of water and a cup of household beach run all the faucets till I smell bleach, let sit for 24 hours , drain the tank ...fill the tank with fresh water run all the faucets for minute and walla! job done no weird tasted and no dried up seals.


My guess is if you take them apart and take the seals out and to the likes of your local ACE hardware you will find the seals you need pretty quick.

Happy Hunting.

ps: perhaps you may get lucky and like a carburetor that has been sitting for a long time it will leak at start up but after being ran a few times of have some gas back thru it the seals will swell and all is fine, just saying a possibility.
__________________
2004 HR Navagator 500 ISM
RobRoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2022, 01:33 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
pflightnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 198
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRoy View Post
1. Perhaps take a few pics post them here and some members may recognize the type and brand and also post pics on google image search and you may find your answer.

2. Disassemble one with lots of pics and take to the local plumbing supply they will most likely how to repair them or what to use as replacements.


ps: in the past I've taken my fair share of flack for using rv anti-freeze only to winterize and cycling it thru everything including my washing machine .... but I have always done so because I've never like the idea of the possibility of DRY'ed up fittings and seals.

In the spring @ 20 gal of water and a cup of household beach run all the faucets till I smell bleach, let sit for 24 hours , drain the tank ...fill the tank with fresh water run all the faucets for minute and walla! job done no weird tasted and no dried up seals.


My guess is if you take them apart and take the seals out and to the likes of your local ACE hardware you will find the seals you need pretty quick.

Happy Hunting.

ps: perhaps you may get lucky and like a carburetor that has been sitting for a long time it will leak at start up but after being ran a few times of have some gas back thru it the seals will swell and all is fine, just saying a possibility.
The dis-assembly went well and the stems, seals and springs were easy to remove. Ace Hardware didn't have them, but one of the mom and pop stores did locally. However, the stems on the new ones were nylon/plastic instead of metal and slightly thicker on the flat side. They worked okay on the cold sides, but for some reason, the mineral deposits or just the tabs in the handle on the hot side wouldn't allow the handles to go on. I rebuilt the hots combining the old stems with the new "sleeve/housing" and o-rings and that worked absolutely fine. Silicone plumbing grease on all the new o-rings seals, and voila', no more leaks. Hoping for another 14 years of good service from the faucets!!

Thanks for the help and encouragement. All opinions on winterizing are duly noted and will be assessed come the winter. I'm using 5 gal of the pink stuff now inclusive of drains, 2 macerator toilets, and the washer. Money is not the object of my air only approach. Time and trouble has been my focus. If the pink stuff can save my seals, I may go that route in the future.
__________________
Steve P
2008 Monaco Knight 40DFT
2014 Honda CR-V LX toad
pflightnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2022, 02:03 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Max Headroom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Western Slope of Colorado
Posts: 234
I did the air and pink stuff in drains only, and it worked fine, but I too ran into post winterizing problems similar to this.

My bath and kitchen faucets would barely drip when turned on. I back flushed the faucets and got the bath running OK, but the kitchen I ended up replacing. The only other problem was the toilet fill was hard to get to fill, without opening the valve. And the bowl leaked down overnight. After a bit of flushing, it returned to normal operation.

I originally winterized with air because I had been thinking of taking a trip after temps dropped low enough to have to winterize. I figured it would be easier to deal with.

I think there is definitely something to the argument in favor of keeping the lines wet with antifreeze.
__________________
97 Monaco Executive 40ft no slides
659 ci 450 hp Cummins M11 w/Jake.
Allison 4060 6 spd. Onan 7500 Quiet Diesel genset
Max Headroom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2022, 01:07 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
pflightnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 198
Made a trip to Ace Hardware and then another local hardware. Matched the valves and replaced them completely, however, the new plastic ones didn't work as well, so I ended up taking parts from both on the hot water side. No more dripping.
__________________
Steve P
2008 Monaco Knight 40DFT
2014 Honda CR-V LX toad
pflightnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2022, 02:20 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 3,475
Winerizing with only air is not a good idea
Yes, flushing the pink stuff is a pia. However it is the only way you can be sure that something will freeze.
__________________
Moisheh
2008 Dynasty 42' Diamond IV
1988 Bluebird PT38
2009 Silverado Toad
moisheh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 06:29 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
George Schweikle's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,381
Thanks for the update. On our 1995 Trek I used the Safari recommendation to just drain the low points but, after a few years of success, I apparently left a little water on one of the lines and had a leak in one of the water lines. Since then I have always used the RV anti-freeze.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
The dis-assembly went well and the stems, seals and springs were easy to remove. Ace Hardware didn't have them, but one of the mom and pop stores did locally. However, the stems on the new ones were nylon/plastic instead of metal and slightly thicker on the flat side. They worked okay on the cold sides, but for some reason, the mineral deposits or just the tabs in the handle on the hot side wouldn't allow the handles to go on. I rebuilt the hots combining the old stems with the new "sleeve/housing" and o-rings and that worked absolutely fine. Silicone plumbing grease on all the new o-rings seals, and voila', no more leaks. Hoping for another 14 years of good service from the faucets!!

Thanks for the help and encouragement. All opinions on winterizing are duly noted and will be assessed come the winter. I'm using 5 gal of the pink stuff now inclusive of drains, 2 macerator toilets, and the washer. Money is not the object of my air only approach. Time and trouble has been my focus. If the pink stuff can save my seals, I may go that route in the future.
__________________
George Schweikle Lexington, KY
2005 Safari (Monaco)Trek 28RB2, Workhorse W20, 8.1, Allison 1000 5 spd, UltraPower engine & tranny, Track bars & sway bars, KONI FSD, FMCA 190830, Safari Int'l. chapter. 1999 Safari Trek 2830, 1995 Safari Trek 2430, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
George Schweikle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 07:30 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 5,108
I drain and by pass the water heater then blow all the lines out with compressed air opening all the faucets one at a time as well as the toilet valve. Once the lines are blown out I drain the water out of the gray and black tanks then I add 6 gallons of pink anti freeze to my fresh water tank. Then I turn the water pump on and start turning each faucet on and let the pink anti freeze flow until I see solid pink anti freeze flow from each faucet and the toilet valve. This includes the outside shower, I also use a small screwdriver and push the check valve in on the city water connection so I know that line is protected. While the pump is still on I crack each low point drain open so I know no water is trapped in them.
I leave the pink anti freeze in the gray and black tanks for winter storage. I drain any remaining antifreeze out of the fresh water tank and save what's left to use winterizing my ATV crop sprayer. Usually about 3 gallons.
I open all the faucets and leave them open during storage so the rubber seals don't remain compressed all the while the coach is sitting. The pink antifreeze will help keep the rubbers soft and not having them compressed needlessly allows them to relax and keep their shape.
Of all the campers we have had since we started camping in 1976 I have never had a freeze up issue or have had to replace a faucet washer, water pump, toilet valve, a water line or a faucet washer.
I leave the drain plug out of the water heater and plug the hole with part of an SOS pad so critters can't get in but any remaining water or moisture can escape.
I bought a camper trailer several years ago to fix and sell which hadn't been winterized. Unless you have had to remove the under belly, the wall behind the shower and replace nearly every line and fixture in the water system including the water pump you can't really appreciate the importance of a through winterization of an RV. While I was successful in repairing the camper and did turn a nice profit I swore I would never get into a project like this again.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
LETMGROW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 08:11 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
BigNick1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 118
I blow the water out and then pump the pink stuff in, hot and cold faucets. I didn't do the icemaker valve and ended up buying that sucker. I need to figure out how to do that one and the washer/dryer lines.
__________________
2003 Beaver Patriot
2008 Lexus GX 470 Tow'd
BigNick1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 01:36 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Gordon Dewald's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 14,289
Quote:
Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
The dis-assembly went well and the stems, seals and springs were easy to remove. Ace Hardware didn't have them, but one of the mom and pop stores did locally. However, the stems on the new ones were nylon/plastic instead of metal and slightly thicker on the flat side. They worked okay on the cold sides, but for some reason, the mineral deposits or just the tabs in the handle on the hot side wouldn't allow the handles to go on. I rebuilt the hots combining the old stems with the new "sleeve/housing" and o-rings and that worked absolutely fine. Silicone plumbing grease on all the new o-rings seals, and voila', no more leaks. Hoping for another 14 years of good service from the faucets!!

Thanks for the help and encouragement. All opinions on winterizing are duly noted and will be assessed come the winter. I'm using 5 gal of the pink stuff now inclusive of drains, 2 macerator toilets, and the washer. Money is not the object of my air only approach. Time and trouble has been my focus. If the pink stuff can save my seals, I may go that route in the future.
I blow out the lines and them fill them with pink. The addition of pink is easy IMO and only adds a few minutes to the process.
__________________
Gordon and Janet
Tour 42QD/InTech Stacker
Gordon Dewald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 07:36 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 3,475
On our Dynasty there is a hose in the wet bay behind the small door. You stick the hose into a gallon jug of AF, open a valve and turn on the pump. Works great.
__________________
Moisheh
2008 Dynasty 42' Diamond IV
1988 Bluebird PT38
2009 Silverado Toad
moisheh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2022, 07:46 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 293
Leaky faucet

Something to consider. Remove the strainer at the faucet spout. Filter can become clogged with fine particles of stone/dirt.
Sam 3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2022, 10:58 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 5,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam 3 View Post
Something to consider. Remove the strainer at the faucet spout. Filter can become clogged with fine particles of stone/dirt.
What you are finding is likely calcium deposits from hard water pumped from a well at rural campgrounds. These deposits can form small crystals which resemble small stones. My wife takes our's faucet strainers apart on occasion and soaks them in CLR to loosen the crystals so they will flow away with pressure from the faucet.
Even our water at home will form calcium deposits as we have a well also but no water softener. I do have whole house filters. When I fill my fresh water tank at home I know I'm going to get a small amount of lime in the water. The same holds true for the faucets, water heater and toilet tanks and valves in our house. They all get a cleaning and flushing on a regular basis.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
LETMGROW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
leak, leaks, winter, winterize



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bathroom sink faucet leaks...what now ? Scooter National RV Owner's Forum 5 02-15-2017 07:27 AM
Arrived at location and now two water leaks jimmy braden Class A Motorhome Discussions 10 01-21-2017 09:41 PM
Winterized or Unwinterized? How Do You Roll? SpaceNorman Class A Motorhome Discussions 12 12-28-2016 11:00 AM
COLD TEMPS COMING-unwinterized..... bowzer RV Systems & Appliances 9 04-19-2013 09:34 PM
Kitchen Faucet Leaks 1peddler Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 14 10-12-2008 08:04 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.