Upgrades/Repairs Thread - Big Blue - 2001 Monaco Signature

[c210pa18]

Hi as you can see I don't post here very much, but I read the helpful post a lot. Anyway I replaced the aux air pump on my 2002 Signature a year ago as it was inoperable. That original motor (at least mine) was a really poor design for the application. it is not a closed motor and being mounted in a not very well protected location gets lots of road spray. I replaced it with this Viair unit which works well and is fully enclosed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does not seem to need to run very often but when it does it seems to be sized about right for the application.

Hope this helps
Gerald

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by veraken

Contact Paul at AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a message.

He has helped others on this forum and I am sure he can help you.

Thanks Vera & Ken!

Originally Posted by c210pa18

Hi as you can see I don't post here very much, but I read the helpful post a lot. Anyway I replaced the aux air pump on my 2002 Signature a year ago as it was inoperable. That original motor (at least mine) was a really poor design for the application. it is not a closed motor and being mounted in a not very well protected location gets lots of road spray. I replaced it with this Viair unit which works well and is fully enclosed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does not seem to need to run very often but when it does it seems to be sized about right for the application.

Hope this helps
Gerald

Appreciate the info, Gerald. Thank you. One of the ideas we're contemplating is relocating the pump to a more protected location. What work was involved in switching pumps to the VIAIR unit?

I did confirm that we have the HWH 600 Series as opposed to the 2000 Series. Does anyone know if this system used the same Thomas air compressor?

Josh

[vito.a]

Norhtwest RV Supply also has them.
You can get a rebuild kit on eBay.
Most of these pumps get dirty (open armature) and can be brought back to life with a good cleaning.
On mine, the Nason switch was also bad along with an inline fuse.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/repl...mp-369684.html

Some folks are replacing the Thomas pump with a Viair 250. The Viair is less expensive and is enclosed but is noisy.

[G--UNIT]

Hi everyone, I was hoping to get some insite. I have a 2002 monaco signature with a 100seris aquahot. Up until a few months ago the thermostat, when called for heat, the dash would blow nice hot air with the engine off and key in off position, camping. Living up in Canada, this is very useful. But recently when heat is called for, with the engine off and key off, there no fan action at all from the central dash. All the other fans in the same zone, zone 1, work fine. I checked the relay, and it is tight. But when I turn the engine key to on but engine off, now I get the fan blowing. And if I keep the engine off and key on and turn the thermostat off air stops blowing from the dash. So I know the fan is good and will obey the command of the thermostat, but for some reason the key has to be on, but I can't, camp, with the key in the on/ accessory position the whole time. Any suggestions? Thanks

Also, the unit inst just a cozy heat exchanger it is combined with the chassis HVAC as well. The antifreeze in the line is running and pumping the other heat exchangers blow nice heat off at the same time in the same zone. And there is good heat from the antifreeze entering the front central dash unit. But just won't turn on unless the key is in the accessory position.

Also, the ACC and ignition fuse groups in the front run panel are not energized at all until the key ignition key is turned into the acc position. I replaced the front run Aqua hot rely with a new one.

The upper ACC solenoid and and lower Ignition solenoid pole don't energize until the key is in the on position.

I'm really scratching my head on this one. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by G--UNIT

Hi everyone, I was hoping to get some insite. I have a 2002 monaco signature with a 100seris aquahot. Up until a few months ago the thermostat, when called for heat, the dash would blow nice hot air with the engine off and key in off position, camping. Living up in Canada, this is very useful. But recently when heat is called for, with the engine off and key off, there no fan action at all from the central dash. All the other fans in the same zone, zone 1, work fine. I checked the relay, and it is tight. But when I turn the engine key to on but engine off, now I get the fan blowing. And if I keep the engine off and key on and turn the thermostat off air stops blowing from the dash. So I know the fan is good and will obey the command of the thermostat, but for some reason the key has to be on, but I can't, camp, with the key in the on/ accessory position the whole time. Any suggestions? Thanks

Also, the unit inst just a cozy heat exchanger it is combined with the chassis HVAC as well. The antifreeze in the line is running and pumping the other heat exchangers blow nice heat off at the same time in the same zone. And there is good heat from the antifreeze entering the front central dash unit. But just won't turn on unless the key is in the accessory position.

Also, the ACC and ignition fuse groups in the front run panel are not energized at all until the key ignition key is turned into the acc position. I replaced the front run Aqua hot rely with a new one.

The upper ACC solenoid and and lower Ignition solenoid pole don't energize until the key is in the on position.

I'm really scratching my head on this one. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Hi there G--UNIT, by the sounds of it you have tackled a lot of the first diagnostic steps for the issue you're having.

I don't have access to the wiring diagrams at the moment, so not sure how helpful I can be.

In case this is helpful for your diagnosing, my understanding of the front heat exchanger is that the fan is controlled by the furnace thermostat when the key is off (ACC off). When the key is on (ACC on), the fan is controlled by the chassis HVAC system.

What I cannot remember off the top of my head, is if these are 2 different fans. It's possible that there is a Cozy III Heat Exchanger under the centre console that is controlled by the Aquahot (just like every other location). This Cozy III Heat Exchanger has its own fan. When the key is turned on, the chassis HVAC fan acts like a booster fan to the hot air entering the system from the Cozy III.

I am not positive this is how it is setup, so hopefully someone else can chime in. However, this could explain your issue. The fan on the Cozy III is inoperative, so when the engine is off you have no air movement. However, when the engine is on the chassis fan moves the air.

Just some thoughts. Let us know how you make out.
Josh

[JJTL]

Hi All!

We are still around and kicking. Apologies for the quiet thread here, been distracted by a new toy and the usual life stuff. We still have a few upgrades for Big Blue planned this summer, and will document them here as always.

Just got back from enjoying a beautiful long weekend in the coach. Only issue I noticed was the rubber seal they used for the new windshield (installed about 2 years ago), has shrunk slightly. There are some tiny gaps I would like to fill in with sealant, to be on the safe side.

I recall that silicone was not recommended for windshields. What has everyone else used to seal around the windshield? Black urethane?

Thanks!
Josh

[Scepter40]

I've used the proflex sealant and it's "worked". I have a much larger issue with my gasket than you probably do. It certainly sticks very well and can fill larger gaps when needed. In my case, the gasket is so shrunk that I have wind noise driving down the road and can't get it to go away. I'll have to have the windshield removed and the gasket replaced, but no one will touch it without me buying a new windshield first.

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by Scepter40

I've used the proflex sealant and it's "worked". I have a much larger issue with my gasket than you probably do. It certainly sticks very well and can fill larger gaps when needed. In my case, the gasket is so shrunk that I have wind noise driving down the road and can't get it to go away. I'll have to have the windshield removed and the gasket replaced, but no one will touch it without me buying a new windshield first.

Thanks, Keith! I'll take a look, and see if it's something easily obtained up here in Canada.

All the best with your repair.

Josh

[Timaz]

Or you can just ask a windshield replacement shop what they use.
Tim

[Craig1960]

Originally Posted by Timaz

Or you can just ask a windshield replacement shop what they use.
Tim

X2 they will probably sell you a tube or two as well and you know its the right stuff.

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by Timaz

Or you can just ask a windshield replacement shop what they use.
Tim

Originally Posted by Craig1960

X2 they will probably sell you a tube or two as well and you know its the right stuff.

Thanks Gents, good idea.

Josh

[JJTL]

Hey friends!

We are still around! Apologies for the lack of posts so far this summer, has been a very busy one.



Also have been distracted with a new toy, and the many projects that it requires. On top of that, Big Blue has been great. We have the coach to the point where we can just jump in and go use it. So not as many projects this year. That being said, we still have a few items on the list this summer! We got a big one done this past weekend, and a few more yet to go before it gets cold.

Our original tank monitoring system went out last year. It was never terribly reliable even when it did work. So we decided to replace the old system with a new SeeLevel II tank monitoring system. What an easy install!

https://www.garnetinstruments.com/holding-tanks/



Thankfully our tanks are easily accessible by opening the tank compartment bay door. The SeeLevel sensors install on the outside of the tanks, and can be cut for height.



Our tank sizes were: Fresh - 13", Grey - 8.5" and Black - 8.5". The best part, is that we could reuse the existing wiring from the old tank sensors that went to the monitor above the fridge.



We removed the old VDO tank gauge and had enough room to enlarge the opening and install the new monitor pad. 2 wires run up from the tanks, a ground and the sensor wire. The final wire is 12V+ power which we had already at the panel. I would say it was maybe a few hour job at most.

Instead of writing up a detailed install here, you can check out the great YouTube videos that Garnet has for their SeeLevel II systems. We used the Model 709-P3 monitor, as we do not have an LPG tank (all electric coach). We also had them swap in the longer Model 710-ES2 sensors (no extra charge) for our tank heights.

Pleased with how it all turned out! We will be boon docking this coming weekend, so a perfect chance to really test them out. So far, they appear very accurate and it's so much better having a percentage level now, instead of a 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full.

Hope you are all well and enjoying your summer!
Josh

[zmotorsports]

Nice job on the SeaLevel installation.

And nice C4.

[Timaz]

I did mine the same way a couple years ago. You will like them.
Tim