Wandering, sway bars, alignment, ride height, oh my!!

[153stars]

You should still be able to use either motor speed Generally most VFDs can be run with potentiometer you could choose the have variable speed but I'm sure there is a minimum speed to get proper lubrication. There's usually a handful of basic ramp settings for start from like direct fan with little starting torque and can spin up quickly to heavily geared equipment that take large amount torque. That's if you choose to remotely start and stop the vfd which would be best. Also you can choose stop functions from free wheel to braking . I doubt 1 to 3 phase vfd could brake heavily, 3 phase units need braking resistors to brake heavily or you get DC bus over voltage errors. I have installed and set up many VFDs but am a rookie to using our mill our only machinist retired .

[smp440]

So I know this post in old. But I have a few questions. I can start a new thread if the moderator prefers. Just let me know.

I'm buying a 2001 Endeaver. It has the 8 air bag system. From other post and threads it looks like they called it the RR8C chassis.

On the test drive it seemed to wonder quite a bit compared to other MH's I've driven.

I don't want to read nearly 200 post and can't get the search to search a phrase. I tried using "xxx xx xx" x being my words, but it keeps searching each word separately and giving me MANY results to read through.

My question is did we settle on the X-brace and the TRW as being the fix?

If so,

1) Where do I get the X-brace kit?

2) What is the part number for the TRW gear box? I seen TAS65 660003?

Thanks Mike

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by smp440

So I know this post in old. But I have a few questions. I can start a new thread if the moderator prefers. Just let me know.

I'm buying a 2001 Endeaver. It has the 8 air bag system. From other post and threads it looks like they called it the RR8C chassis.

On the test drive it seemed to wonder quite a bit compared to other MH's I've driven.

I don't want to read nearly 200 post and can't get the search to search a phrase. I tried using "xxx xx xx" x being my words, but it keeps searching each word separately and giving me MANY results to read through.

My question is did we settle on the X-brace and the TRW as being the fix?

If so,

1) Where do I get the X-brace kit?

2) What is the part number for the TRW gear box? I seen TAS65 660003?

Thanks Mike

Mike,

That coach has the RR8R chassis (Raised Rail, 8 airbags, Rear radiator)

You have to establish which steer box you have. The shepard or the TRW. The TRW is adjustable.

As for that x brace kit. There several available. Here's a web site that can help explain and supply what you might need.

www.monacowatts.com

[islandboy54]

I have been through this so here is my advice.
1. Determine if you have steering wheel play. If so, see which steering gear you have. You can simply have a TRW adjusted. The Sheppard would need to be replaced and I would go with a TRW as the replacement so it is adjustable in the future.
2. If it still wanders (and if my experience is any indication, it will), add the front Monaco Watts kit. Test drive it.
3. If the rear is moving around during the test drive, add the rear Monaco Watts kit. You can also add the cross bars (and I have them). I tried them second (after the steering gear replacement) but they did not help the problem I was experiencing. They say the cross bars help when towing a toad and they may be helping me, they just did not correct the control issues I was having.
Mine goes very straight now. The other thing I sort of skipped over is tire inflation. Inflate to support your full load. Rarely that is full inflation. Tire manufacturers have inflation tables for coaches for a reason. Use them.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!

[smp440]

I purchased the Coach Saturday. It seemed fine until the wind caught me at just the right diagonal angle. It went to a back and forth in the lane. Nothing too dramatic but more then I want to deal with if I can improve it. I have several things to address and some trips planned over the next 6 weeks. Ill report back when I have more info.

Thanks so much for the help!!

[imkwuzn]

Congrats on the new motorhome. I have the same year Endeavor (38PBD). I haven’t done any mods to it other than replacing the original shocks with Koni’s and new tires. Both made a difference in ride but not necessarily wandering. Mine does have a bit of free play in the steering gear and since I have the Shepherd, I will need to replace it with a TRW at some point. Watts links as well. Both in the future as I have other priorities currently and don’t use it often enough to justify the expense and it still drives better than my old gasser ever did.

[pduggs]

Originally Posted by AllenIN

I finally got my Monaco Watts Link installed a couple of weeks ago after a bit of a false start. The weather in our current location has been pretty bad, so it took some time to get a good weather day to crawl under the coach to install it. It took about 2 minutes to realize my snowflake was, of course, a little different. The supplied 1 1/2" C-channels that bolt through the forward bay uprights were too narrow. My uprights were a hair over 3" wide.

As Mike was both getting ready for eye surgery and headed to Quartzsite, I had the option of returning the kit for a refund, or working out the solution on my own.

In the end, I had new C-channels made by a local shop that were 3.100" wide (inside measurement), but kept both the bolt spacing and locations the same as the 1.5" version that came with the kit. After installing the new C-channels, everything else in the kit bolted up exactly as expected.

Two weeks after the install, I finally took the coach out for a refuel and a test run.

A lot of folks have questioned the need or value of adding a front Watts Link to a tag axle RR10S coach. All I can say is WOW!

I immediately noticed a significant difference, even at low speeds. The squishy body-roll was gone as I turned out of the drive. The narrow, undulating back road I was on used to take every bit of my focus and constant corrections. This undulating road also used to juggle and re-arrange everything in the cabinets. It was a night-and-day difference right out of the gate and my wife noticed the improvements right away too.

I spent two hours on a mix of highway and secondary roads and it really was like driving a totally different coach. No more constant corrections on the highway or back roads, the swaying and body-roll was gone - so much so that none of the stuff in the cabinets shifted or re-arranged themselves like it did before. Turning into a corner or long sweeping turn on a ramp was confidence inspiring. Highway driving was a joy, easily done with one hand. Passing trucks used to take focus, as I was micro-correcting the whole time to maintain spacing. Now it doesn't even register on my radar.

So, I can say that a Watts Link on a tag axle coach CAN make a huge difference in handling and drive-ability. I am not affiliated in any way and I paid full price for my kit. I am not too proud to tell someone I wasted my money on something, but this was easily the best investment I have made in my coach.

Allen you don’t have a RR10S chassis. You have the S Series chassis. There is a difference. Your chassis and mine are all steel construction and semi monocoque. The Roadmaster RR10S has aluminum house frame and isn’t semi monocoque.

Your comments on the Watts Link are much appreciated. I will check it out further. I was under the impression it wasn’t needed on the S Series. My coach seems to ride very well. I haven’t experienced some of the handling problems you mentioned.

[GoWestMan]

Finally convinced myself to buy a Watts kit for my 93 Monaco Crown Royale and now the website says they're not shipping due to increased prices of raw material.


Yeesh. Just my luck.


I just want to stop the swaying. I already put on all new shocks and just installed a Safe T Steer and made sure my inflation was correct and tightened up my steering box, but going into an approach at an angle is enough to make you feel like a rag doll getting side whiplash lol. Hate that.


Is there another kit just for anti sway? Or other solutions to make ol' Betsy settle down?

[R&J]

I just check Mikes web site. It say they will be shipping in July 2021 .m Did you call ?
Here is web site you will have to put in a search box
https://www.monacowatts.com

[Vanwill]

[QUOTE=

Is there another kit just for anti sway? Or other solutions to make ol' Betsy settle down?[/QUOTE]

NOPE. Only Snake Oil.

[GoWestMan]

Originally Posted by R&J

I just check Mikes web site. It say they will be shipping in July 2021 .m Did you call ?
Here is web site you will have to put in a search box
https://www.monacowatts.com

Thats for current orders already placed. They're not accepting any NEW orders unfortunately.

[GoWestMan]

Well desperate times call for desperate measures. Watts isnt taking new orders right now and we are due to leave on vacation shortly but I wanted to put in their rear cross bar kit before we left.


So I swung by our local metal supplier and picked up two 10' long pieces of 2" x 1/4" steel and four 2 1/2" clamps. Cut one piece into two 5' long bars, and an hour or two later they were up under our 92 Monaco and bolted in place.

https://i.imgur.com/7e3F4Ne.jpg



Might not be a Watts system but it only cost about $50 total and I've still got the other 10' bar so I can do the same on the front arms tomorrow.

[Vanwill]

Originally Posted by NorthOrSouth

Well desperate times call for desperate measures. Watts isnt taking new orders right now and we are due to leave on vacation shortly but I wanted to put in their rear cross bar kit before we left.


So I swung by our local metal supplier and picked up two 10' long pieces of 2" x 1/4" steel and four 2 1/2" clamps. Cut one piece into two 5' long bars, and an hour or two later they were up under our 92 Monaco and bolted in place.


Might not be a Watts system but it only cost about $50 total and I've still got the other 10' bar so I can do the same on the front arms tomorrow.

Interesting idea! There are some potential problems with not having joints at the end of the cross-braces, but with only 1/4" thick material, flexing might partially overcome that. It might still be an improvement.

My first experiment, before developing the Watts link application was on a 1993 Dynasty. 1993 and earlier models allowed cross-braces front and rear. On later models, the generator prevented placement in the front. On that coach front and rear cross-braces totally transformed its road-wild behavior. I used 1/2" diameter cross braces with Heim joints. Contrary to what one might think, the cross-braces work in tension, so they need not be huge.

Looking forward to your report on how they performed!

[GoWestMan]

Im very curious too. Just got the front installed a few minutes ago and going for a test drive as soon as I can... https://i.imgur.com/Rb3MH96.jpg

Originally Posted by Vanwill

Interesting idea! There are some potential problems with not having joints at the end of the cross-braces, but with only 1/4" thick material, flexing might partially overcome that. It might still be an improvement.

My first experiment, before developing the Watts link application was on a 1993 Dynasty. 1993 and earlier models allowed cross-braces front and rear. On later models, the generator prevented placement in the front. On that coach front and rear cross-braces totally transformed its road-wild behavior. I used 1/2" diameter cross braces with Heim joints. Contrary to what one might think, the cross-braces work in tension, so they need not be huge.

Looking forward to your report on how they performed!