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Arch Hoagland · 07-17-2020, 09:26 PM

So how pressure does the new meter say you have?

BobJones · 07-17-2020, 09:34 PM

Bear in mind I've only had it installed for a few hours but it seems to be averaging around 42 PSI but I have seen it as low as 20.

My guess is when people are using a lot of water it drops and when they aren't it rises. My question is, how much will it rise? The park told me last year that they hold it to 50 max but I have seen instances, at 1AM or so, when the toilet really flushes well! So well that I wonder just how high it is.

I've been running without the in-line regulator due to the massive drop in volume it caused but this one does not appear to affect it. So I'm back to safety without the volume hit. That regulator cost $39.95 CAD, free shipping and came with a nice case, a small screwdriver to adjust it, and teflon tape along with a well-made instruction sheet. Impressive! I bought a second one for my neighbor as she had removed her in-line one as well due to the volume reduction.

Arch Hoagland · 07-17-2020, 09:49 PM

20 is really low. I've never seen pressure that low...anywhere.

My regulator keeps mine about 50lb.

BobJones · 07-17-2020, 09:56 PM

The park is on well-water and it's normally excellent. But....it's very busy right now and a couple of times it was off for a little bit.

I'm in the long-term section (which is all new) and when the tourists come in the summer there's always some issue that needs to get straightened out.

Normally I use the water pump to make up the difference and this doesn't happen very often. It's actually kind of fun when it does because I still have great pressure and everyone else complains (they don't keep their tanks up and probably don't even know how to use the pump).

I've done a lot to get the water side of things in shape. A new pump, new plumbing, an accumulator, revamped the hot water tank etc so it's nice when I throw the switch and make my own

BobJones · 07-17-2020, 11:05 PM

BTW, it doesn't look like you can use a standard vacuum breaker or anti-drainback valve (the kind you see on spigots) because they blow off pressure/water. My guess is if the pump was on it would cause them to blow off leaking water.

Here's some interesting information I found after some searching....

"Swing check valves are for horizontal use only. When fluid pushes on the stopper in the correct direction, it will "swing" open to allow flow. If flow moves in the opposite direction, it will swing shut. The check valve cannot be used in vertical applications as gravity may affect the function of the swinging motion. Note: Check valves do not create a 100% seal against backflow like a ball valve would. If prevention of backflow is desired, two check valves should be used in series with each other. Any fluid which finds its way past the first check valve is unlikely to have enough pressure to pass through the 2nd."

Ljwt330 · 07-18-2020, 09:44 AM

In my experience, the check valve in the hose connection should prevent any water from exiting the connection when the pump is ON. If it doesn't the valve is failing, probably due to age or debris.

The pressure regulator is set for static water pressure, meaning no water flowing through. As you've found, the gauge will show lower pressure if the RV is drawing more water than the park can provide at the set pressure, but it's main function is to not allow a higher pressure to pass into the RV.

Your correct about the anti-siphon or vacuum breaker valves shooting water out, but they are not designed to be check valves. They simply prevent the siphon by opening the plumbing to air.

BobJones · 07-18-2020, 10:33 PM

Thanks!

I ordered up a new check-valve from Amazon along with some fittings to make it work with garden hose fittings. It looks like a really good one, all brass, no lead and stainless. American made.

Part of the issue is probably that I'm doing something non-standard. In the wet bay there's a lever that controls a ball valve. Two positions, one is for when you're on the pump and one is for when you're on park water. My guess is that is the real break to make sure water can't go back to the park.

So, what I'm trying to do is make it so that I don't have to go outside and close the valve if the pressure is low or the water is off. I just want to turn on the pump and hit the shower.

The new pressure regulator is excellent. I had to take it over to a friends place to set it to 60. The park's water pressure is not high enough right now. He had 80 at his house so it was easy to dial it in.

I suspect that will case the entire issue. I also put in a new shower head and it's really good too.

One thing I am wondering about though, I have seen some fixtures for bathroom showers called thermostatic mixers. Apparently, you set the temperature you want and then they keep it at that temperature. It sounds really good but they are pricey. Have you ever used them?

Ljwt330 · 07-19-2020, 08:58 AM

I've never used a thermostatic mixing valve, but others have and I'm sure they will post.

Your description of the wet bay valve does sound like it would eliminate the check valve as the ball valve apparently cuts off the city inlet from the system. Did you install that valve arrangement?

BobJones · 07-19-2020, 11:06 AM

No, it came that way from the factory. The pic below is what it looks like now (that will change once the check valve arrives etc).

It did have a factory anti-backflow valve attached to the valve in the pic, but that was removed as it seemed to leak back a lot and only caused a restriction.

That blue lever has two positions, one for drawing from city water and the other for drawing from the water tank.

The problem is/was that if you have it set to draw from the water tank, and the city water is turned on, then it fills the water tank.

So...ideally...if it can be left on the city water setting...and it has a check valve installed....then I should be able to use the internal water pump and not have any pressurized water coming back out to the park. Or, better yet, I can leave the pump on 24x7 and if anything, all it will do is supplement the park water pressure when needed.

That's the way it's working now, just with the issue of *some* pressurized water making it's way back down to the source.

96 Wideglide · 07-19-2020, 11:36 AM

That valve is for filling your fresh water tank, not drawing from it.
Turn it to the vertical position whether you are drawing city water, or tank water.
If your pump is turned on, it will draw from the tank.

BobJones · 07-19-2020, 11:46 AM

The electric pump will draw from the tank in any position but if you read the label on the valve it shows the two positions as 'Water tank source' or 'City Water'. When the valve is set to City then it's open to the city source. When it's set to Water Tank then the system is isolated from the incoming water source.

96 Wideglide · 07-19-2020, 11:50 AM

Mine says 'City water', and 'Water tank fill'.

96 Wideglide · 07-19-2020, 12:07 PM

Early on, I though I could boost low spigot pressure by leaving the spigot open, and running the pump. All I was doing was drawing water from the fresh tank.

BobJones · 07-19-2020, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Early on, I though I could boost low spigot pressure by leaving the spigot open, and running the pump. All I was doing was drawing water from the fresh tank.

This is what I'm doing. Assuming a proper check valve in the feed line from the park you can leave the lever set to city water and run the pump. When you do that, if your pump and accumulator are set correctly, the pump will supplement the park's pressure when the park does not have enough. It will use the water tank to supplement the pressure. It will only use as much water as is required to get the pressure up. This is what I'm after. Leave the pump on at all times and it will only come on when the park pressure is below that of the pump/accumulator.

When the check valve is in it will work that way. In fact, if the water is off in the park I won't even know because my pump will feed the unit. If the park water is at 20 PSI then the pump will make up the difference. Seamlessly. So in the end the only thing I have to do is top up the water tank from time to time to replace whatever was augmented.

In the winter, when there is ample water and pressure, the pump won't even run. In the summer, when the tourists come and use up all the water, the pump will make up the difference seamlessly. Either way, I will have consistent water and pressure regardless of what is going on at the park without my doing anything. This is what I'm after

The problem I have, right now, is that when the pump is on it's also pressurizing the park, to some degree. That's why I ordered up the check-valve. It will isolate my water system from the parks. Once installed, the system should be done and work as desired.

I *think* the way Monaco designed it was that if you are on the pump you are supposed to close the ball valve lever in the wet bay. At the same time, you have to shut off the feed to the unit because if it comes back on it will overfill the water tank. With the redesign none of that will be required.