Community Forums

8thDegree · 05-30-2020, 12:10 PM

Late last season when using the water pump it got to where the water pressure was bad and the pump would constantly run and very little water would come out. I looked over the pump and made sure that the strainer was clean. Nothing changed and because the pump looked like it was original to coach, I replaced earlier this season assuming that the pump had to be the problem. Of course, we all know the problem with assumption...

Last weekend tried using it for the first time and it is acting the same. I replaced it with the same model Sureflo 2088-544-11 as those are still available.

I tried the city water/tank fill knob both directions and nothing changed. Also, tried all the different fixtures and no difference in any of them.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions as to why the water pump is not making pressure like it should, I am very open to suggestions on how to fix this problem.

Thanks for your assistance!

Warren

okie143 · 05-30-2020, 03:46 PM

If you are filling you fresh water tank and the pump isn't making pressure then the pump isn't getting water. I would drain your fresh water tank, remove the line running to the pump and ensure the line isn't plugged with something.

Then I would hook the line to the water pump back up and put a little water in the fresh water tank and see if you can get it to come out using a siphon hose or hand pump. That way you ensure the pump is getting water.

I would also check to ensure the pump is getting the correct voltage.

Just some things to try.

8thDegree · 06-01-2020, 07:25 AM

When I installed the new pump, I did check voltage with a volt meter on the incoming wires and it was good (over 12 volts), so I am fairly certain that the voltage is good.

As far as the water, when I removed the incoming water line and clear screen, there was quite a bit of water that came out and I opened and drained the fresh water tank the week prior. Certainly seemed like water was flowing pretty good and steady.

Do you know where the connection from the water pump to the fresh water tank is located? I hope you don't have to remove the back of the plumbing bay. Or, does anyone know if it can be reached from underneath?

Thanks again for any suggestions.

Ljwt330 · 06-01-2020, 08:27 AM

This is from your first post,

"Late last season when using the water pump it got to where the water pressure was bad and the pump would constantly run and very little water would come out."

Note bold. That tells me the pump is fine, but you have a "leak" because a continually running pump indicates that pressure is never being held in the closed system.

One form of "leak" is the winterizing valve is OPEN. This valve is on the inlet side of the pump and is used to pull antifreeze into the system from an outside source. The valve connects to an open tube. If that valve is open, air will be drawn into the inlet instead of water, resulting in a low flow. It shouldn't lead to continued running due to the check valve and pressure switch in the pump, but if the system cannot ever reach pressure to activate the pump's pressure switch due to the air in the lines, the pump will continue to run.

If not the winterizing valve, my suspicion is an internal leak, most probably at the city water/tank fill valve. If that valve is faulty, it cal allow water in the system to enter the fresh tank rather than the plumbing system, basically you're recirculating the water back into the tank.

Get as close to the tank as possible, have someone turn on the pump, and listen for the sound of water entering the tank. Even if you cannot hear anything, the fact that the pump does not shut off, including the brand new pump, points to the system failing to pressurize which means a leak.

8thDegree · 06-02-2020, 12:22 PM

Larry,

I am fairly certain that my Dynasty does not have any type of winterizing valve. At least I have not seen one that I can find, so I don't think that is the problem.

Also, I have not seen any water leaks anywhere else in the coach. When hooked up to city water, everything works fine. It is just when trying to use the fresh water tank with the water pump that we have problems.

Before returning from our last trip over Memorial Day weekend, I turned the pump on and switched the valve from city water to water tank fill thinking that the valve might be in the wrong position. This was done while still connected to city water so I thought that this might help prime the pump. However after trying for several minutes and disconnecting the water I still have the same problem.

How long should I let the pump run to initially pressurize the system? I have let it run for a minute or two. Do I need to allow more time? It seems like when I got the coach a few years ago you could turn the water pump on and it would cut off in less than a minute. Or, perhaps I am getting old and don't remember like I used to.

I will be glad to check the water valve in the wet bay this weekend and let you know what I find.

Thanks for your help and I know there has to be a solution to this problem!

Warren

Podivin · 06-02-2020, 12:27 PM

Check the outside shower, make sure the water is turned off at the valves (hot & cold knobs) and not just with the shutoff at the shower head. If the valves are open and the shower head off then water can 'circulate' through the fixture causing low pressure in the RV.

Old-Biscuit · 06-02-2020, 01:09 PM

Shower knobs open will cause LUKE Warm water due to mixing of hot/cold inside the faucet....nothing to do with low pressure issue

OP....
When running pump have you bled all air from system by opening a faucet hot/cold sides and let pump run?

8thDegree · 06-03-2020, 10:02 AM

Podivin and Old Biscuit,

Did check the outside shower and made sure both knobs were in the off position.

Also, we used the coach at an rv park so we were able to use the city water and all the air was purged from all the water lines. I even used the ice maker as it has not been used in a while. Again while hooked up to city water we are good. The problem is when trying to use the water pump exclusively to pressurize the system and use water with any appliance.

On second thought, I guess I did not turn on the outside shower to purge that appliance of air. Could that be the problem?

Warren

Ljwt330 · 06-03-2020, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8thDegree

Podivin and Old Biscuit,

Did check the outside shower and made sure both knobs were in the off position.

Also, we used the coach at an rv park so we were able to use the city water and all the air was purged from all the water lines. I even used the ice maker as it has not been used in a while. Again while hooked up to city water we are good. The problem is when trying to use the water pump exclusively to pressurize the system and use water with any appliance.

On second thought, I guess I did not turn on the outside shower to purge that appliance of air. Could that be the problem?

Warren

Using city water will purge the system of air, but it will not purge the pump inlet plumbing of air.

My coach has the fresh tank outlet at the bottom of the tank and the pipe run directly to the pump inlet. The pipe and pump are filled by gravity. Some coaches have the tank line or pump higher than the bottom so losing prime is possible, and this may be what you are experiencing.

Still, I cannot believe you don’t have a winterizing valve/tube in your system. An open winterizing valve behaves exactly as you describe.

YC1 · 06-04-2020, 08:17 AM

A couple of times I had my inlet side sucking air do to allowing the water tank to be completely empty.

The pump would act just as you explained. I found my (winterizing) input line and connected a hose to it. Turning on the pump while adding water to this line got rid of all the air in the line.

My point is, you may have an air bubble at the input to the pump and cannot see it. I cannot visualize how you might try this but perhaps disconnect the input to the pump and connect a garden hose running slowly. It does not have to be a solid connection, just enough to eliminate any input air. If the pump takes off and runs you can then work backwards.

8thDegree · 06-08-2020, 09:18 AM

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I will have to bring the coach home to hook it up to a water hose as it sits in storage. Will try to disconnect the water inlet and substitute the water hose and see if that will work. Looking at my pictures of the install, a water hose should attach to the pump.

One other thought: If I loosen the fresh water line before the strainer and let water start running out, will this help purge air from the line? Here is a picture of my setup:

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Thanks again for all suggestions!

Warren

YC1 · 06-08-2020, 09:27 AM

Might work. Fill your fresh water tank to full. If you can kind of put a little pressure on it like overflowing it as I and others do once in awhile that might help purge the lines as well.

SailorSam · 06-08-2020, 10:51 AM

Since you have been able to replace the pump. I suggest that when you get the rig home, you hook your city water up to the line going to the INPUT side of the pump and run water back into the water tank. You may well have a bunch of crud built up in the line. Then reconnect and test. If you immediately get good water flow, do a good flush of the tank to get rid of the crud.
Another possibility is crud build up in the line between where the pump output meets the water input from your city water port. Disconnecting the output side of the pump and connecting city water to the normal input location should back flush this section of plumbing.
Good luck.

8thDegree · 06-16-2020, 08:50 AM

I wanted to let everyone know that over the weekend I went back to the coach. Crawled in the storage compartment to the water pump and put some towels around the water inlet connection. Unscrewed it and there was lots of water coming out. So much so that I did not get it all the way undone as I had a bit of water in the fresh water tank.

Hooked it back up and went in the coach and turned the pump on and turned the bathroom sink on. After a bit of air came out, the water picked up quite steadily. After letting it run for a few minutes still waiting for the pressure to build and pump shut off I remembered that I had drained all the water out of the hot water heater.

Shut down the pump and then pulled the anode rod drain on the water heater and I think it had to have been about full. Not sure how, but it seems to be moving lots of water now.

Perhaps my disconnection of the inlet water line did relieve some air built up. Regardless, I am thrilled that all seems to be good right now.

Thanks for all your suggestions as I "think" that the problem has been fixed! Got a trip planned for the July 4th week so I will let you know if we have any more trouble with the water pump.

Warren