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Old 09-26-2022, 03:46 PM   #1
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Windsor Hot water heater Question

When we use of RV, ( 99 Windsor 40') we acquired about a year ago, I am still learning items on how to use or not use..
The Electric hot water heater doesn't seems to work, we use the propane, works great, but would like to get everything working on this at one time, so not to spend $$ of propane although it seems rather tiny amount it uses..
What am I looking at to replace burner etc..
If there are any links I would appreciate..
Thanks all in advance


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Old 09-26-2022, 06:39 PM   #2
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What kind of water heater do you have?


On mine there is a separate switch on the outside of the water heater. It is a small on/off switch that prevents someone from accidentally turning the water heater on if it's winterized.

Is the breaker on?
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Old 09-26-2022, 08:43 PM   #3
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As mentioned there is either a switch outside on the water heater, or like mine inside on the main panel that is labeled, and right next to the propane on/off. Find the switch step one, then when switched on just check the heating element for 110v, or even when off it should have continuity. Chances are your heating element is toast. Just like a home water heater you need a special element wrench like so. (or a big socket) https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Residen...47225003&psc=1 The elements are not expensive and I carry a spare.
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:17 PM   #4
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On line picture appears to be an Atwood model

Atwood Electric ON/Off switch is on backside of water heater on the cover over the 120VAC set of T-stats and Element.
RV Mfg should have installed an additional on/off on inside control panel wired in series with the OEM
the HI temp T-stat has a manual reset via Hole in cover.

120VAC from a 15A circuit breaker to the on/off switch to Hi temp T-stat to Norma temp T-stat to element
Element requires a 1 1/2" thin walled socket and room to remove it (9 1/2" length)
1400W 120VAC element


Suburban OEM on/off switch is in Outside compartment --lower left corner
RV mfg may have installed one inside in control panel wired in series with OEM
Set of 120VAC T-stats and element in outside cover also
Hi temp is manual reset 'Push to Reset' cover above gas valve (left side 120VAC ---right side 12VDC for GAS)
Element under oval cover below burner assembly....1 1/2" socket
1440W 120VAC element
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:24 AM   #5
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Thank you we have a on off button on the lower left-hand side of the actual heater unit and under the sink we have two separate switches one that has a small green light next to it that Iíve never seen work and the other which I know is the propane switch I will check into the heater not sure where the heating element would be this is all Iím looking at
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Old 09-27-2022, 11:11 AM   #6
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You have a Suburban Brand WH

Switch in lower left corner is On/Off for electric
Switch by sink is probably wired in series with OEM...both have to be on for electric (then just use inside one)

Above the GAS Valve are the SETS of t-stats
Left set...120VAC for electric
Right set...12VDC for GAS

Electric Element is under the cover below gas valve/burner tube
*remove burner tune to remove element

120VAC from 15A CB to inside switch>outside switch>HI temp T-stat via connection wire to Normal temp T-stat>element>neutral bus in Main AC Panel

***Remove cover on SETS of T-stats and check the wire connection between HI & Normal T-stat----they can burn into



HERE is Link to Suburban Troubleshooting Manual (GOOD INFO)
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ban%20V1.3.pdf
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:46 PM   #7
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Red face

Im sure you have checked this, but let me share my silly story.
I have 00 Windsor almost idential to yours on many parts. Also acquired one year ago, when I tried my electric water hearer switch, it did not luminate up. I thought it just wasn't working. Tried many things like the switches mentioned above and fuses like that. Still didn't work. The propane is working, so I just left it there for the moment. Until once I had my genny running and somehow I feeled like to try the WH, and I heard the genny ramp up. Finally figured out that it was working all the time, just the light in the switch was broken.
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Old 09-27-2022, 08:07 PM   #8
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Do you have a wiring diagram for your coach.



My 2002 Windsor has the Suburban WH. There are two switches on the kitchen counter, one for the propane and one for electric. There is a 12 volt fuse behind the small panel for the 12 volt switch.

On mine the switch for electric is 12 volt that goes to a relay behind the main electrical panel, it is mounted in a 6"X6" Ormon box. The relay takes the signal from the 12 volt switch and closes the 120 volt side of the relay. There is a chance the relay is bad. I checked mine twice and in both cases the terminals on the 120 volt side showed signs of getting hot.



If you have a wiring diagram check to see if you have a similar set up. At minimum I get a volt meter out and check the to see if the heating element is getting power.
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Old 09-27-2022, 08:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Do you have a wiring diagram for your coach.



My 2002 Windsor has the Suburban WH. There are two switches on the kitchen counter, one for the propane and one for electric. There is a 12 volt fuse behind the small panel for the 12 volt switch.

On mine the switch for electric is 12 volt that goes to a relay behind the main electrical panel, it is mounted in a 6"X6" Ormon box. The relay takes the signal from the 12 volt switch and closes the 120 volt side of the relay. There is a chance the relay is bad. I checked mine twice and in both cases the terminals on the 120 volt side showed signs of getting hot.



If you have a wiring diagram check to see if you have a similar set up. At minimum I get a volt meter out and check the to see if the heating element is getting power.

12VDC to DC Relay is a common method to trigger 120VAC to element
Low voltage next to/in kitchen is less dangerous then having live 120VAC and no GFCI needed

Suburban finally came out a few years ago with a DEL model....DC relay for the 120VAC
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Old 09-28-2022, 07:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
12VDC to DC Relay is a common method to trigger 120VAC to element
Low voltage next to/in kitchen is less dangerous then having live 120VAC and no GFCI needed

Suburban finally came out a few years ago with a DEL model....DC relay for the 120VAC

Yes, I agree.
The problem is where Monaco (at least on my coach) put the relay, it is behind the main service panel and impossible to get to without removing at minimum the Intellitec EMS board. I had to replace the EMS system after a lightening strike and while it was out I saw the 6X6" Ormon box, didn't know what it was but the electrical diagram does show it, just hard to get to.
It actually has 2 relays, one for the water heater and one for the block heater.
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Old 09-28-2022, 11:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Yes, I agree.
The problem is where Monaco (at least on my coach) put the relay, it is behind the main service panel and impossible to get to without removing at minimum the Intellitec EMS board. I had to replace the EMS system after a lightening strike and while it was out I saw the 6X6" Ormon box, didn't know what it was but the electrical diagram does show it, just hard to get to.
It actually has 2 relays, one for the water heater and one for the block heater.
RV 'Designers' should have a mandatory 6 months working on repairs before they could be allowed to design anything
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Old 09-28-2022, 12:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCycle View Post
Thank you we have a on off button on the lower left-hand side of the actual heater unit and under the sink we have two separate switches one that has a small green light next to it that I’ve never seen work and the other which I know is the propane switch I will check into the heater not sure where the heating element would be this is all I’m looking at

Hi, I think it's on the inside (as in inside your coach) of your tank like under the sink. You can see the wires running into it. First see if you get lucky and can get it working. If you tank water is cold, you are plugged into shore power and turn on the electric switches you can hear the element work. Then, through scientific testing your hand placed under tap will confirm If you are lucky then no element change is needed.
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Old 09-29-2022, 12:36 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=jacwjames;6319877]Yes, I agree.
The problem is where Monaco (at least on my coach) put the relay, it is behind the main service panel and impossible to get to without removing at minimum the Intellitec EMS board. I had to replace the EMS system after a lightening strike and while it was out I saw the 6X6" Ormon box, didn't know what it was but the electrical diagram does show it, just hard to get to.
It actually has 2 relays,
Ok Iím lost
Not sure where these boxes you speak of are located,
I do not have the owners manual with this
So kinda like ???
Would be nice to actually troubleshoot this
Thanks once again to those who take time to post
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Old 09-29-2022, 06:28 AM   #14
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I would start at you main electrical panel and make sure the breaker is on and passing power.

If you have the Intellitec EMS system it probably controls the water heater, I'd recommend just bypassing it until you figure out if the water heater works or not. You can do this by just wire nutting the two wires together.


Make sure switch on water heater is on.


Does you inside switch light up when you turn it on, if not this may be a 12 volt control issue.



Get a multimeter out and check voltages, if everything is on you should see voltage at the heating element. If there is and it still doesn't turn on it may be the heating element.
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