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Old 06-16-2021, 08:53 PM   #15
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which battery bank did you choose for control power
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Old 06-17-2021, 07:37 AM   #16
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I wired as the shown in the instructions. House side on A lug & Chassis on B lug. I did not use any of the isolation wires. If I want to isolate the house & chassis I can just turn the dash switch to off.



When I first installed it I was testing to make sure it worked as described but I had left the dash switch to the "ON" position. I turned the Chassis battery disconnect switch to off thinking it would isolate that side, it didn't.

Scratched my head and reread the instructions. I then turned the dash switch to "Auto" and flipped the chassis disconnect switch and it isolated each banks.

I then decided to do a test without shore power so there was no charging from the inverter, it isolated both bank. While I was at it I let the inverter on for to make sure it worked with the new residential refrigerator to check the low voltage cutout, it worked. I then plugged back in to shore power letting the inverter start charging, after a period of time the two banks combined charging both house & chassis.
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Old 06-19-2021, 12:14 AM   #17
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That's quite an undertaking! Wish I had read this earlier. Pulling the dash alone would worry me. Was it as difficult as it would seem?


I am having a problem just removing the Sony monitor. It is so tight within the cutout in the dash that it is stuck.


I'm guessing that your dash is re-installed by now? Maybe I could PM you to separate my question from your ML-ACR install?


Hope the system works as-per your expectations!


Glenn
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:00 AM   #18
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Pulling the dash is a real pain. The plastic material that Monaco used is flimsy especially with the weight of the gauges and monitor. They did not provide a lot of extra wire on the harnesses so you can only pull it out so far to work on anything.



I've had to work on the dash before. When my wife was driving the RV from MI to TN in 2012 the monitor actually fell out of the dash inward. She got creative (with my nephews help) and used a dog leash to pull it back up and kind of hold into position. The only thing holding the monitor in place were 4 small bolt that were either epoxied or heat bonded to the back of the dash. They had large flat bonding surface. I knew there was no way for me to reattach the the bolts so I simply drilled 4 holes through the dash and pushed the bolts through from the outside. I pained the 4 bolt heads black and if you didn't know they weren't suppose to be there you would think that was how it was suppose to be.



The dash parts get brittle, my side console has several cracks where the screws had been over tightened in the past. A small portion of the front dash, the long narrow piece above the radio, is cracked but you can't hardly see once the dash is put back in place and realigned. I know a lot of people who go through a lot of time and expense to change these out but I'll spend my money on something else.



Feel free to PM me, I've done the same thing with other IRV2 members on different issues.
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:05 AM   #19
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So Jim, what was wrong with the original set up, was it the unit itself or the system design you had issues with?
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:23 AM   #20
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In the past I never heard the Lambert LE415 battery maintainer but all of a sudden I noticed that it was starting to click frequently So I started monitoring to see what was going on. Reading the instructions and troubleshooting guide it did say that clicking was normal but it never seemed to quit. If it wasn't clicking as soon as I turned on a light it would start, didn't make sense. I started checking voltages and it was not maintaining my chassis battery. The inverter was charging the house battery @13.3 volts but the chassis battery was usually 12.6 volts.

I thought it might have been the battery so I disconnect it and put a small charger on it, let it charge for a day then monitored it. It held 12.8 volts.



The Lambert maintainer is a known problem and is now obsolete. There are options to replace but I thought that If I'm going to spend $$$ I might as well upgrade the whole system. There had been multiple posts on the Blue Sea ML-ACR replacing the BIRD and Big Boy or Isolation Relay. So I decided to go that route.

So far I am pleased with the upgrade but time will tell. Getting ready to head out on an extended trip so it will get a good test real fast.
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:29 AM   #21
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I seen a vid from Bluesea that addressed combining as far as worry of huge surge to large dead bank of batteries. It was not huge surge at all . I wouldn't combine while trying to crank big diesel at same time or anything.
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:38 AM   #22
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Did you run the wire to your starter solenoid to cut out the house batteries while cranking?
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Old 06-19-2021, 12:03 PM   #23
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No I didn't, I can always just shut the ML-ACR off but will look into this.



Has anyone else installed a ML-ACR and wire it to isolate,the batteries when starting????
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:49 PM   #24
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I chose not to as well , my view is it will be hard to spike four golf cart batteries. Some big diesel coaches actually suggest using the boost when starting.
Anyway I just kinda finished mine . I still just a 3gang switch plate and extra DPDT red switch. I chose to run the 2amp fused power wire higher and tap 2amps off that near dash and use to power/switch my dash radio to either battery bank. I like to disable chassis batteries. The puppy and grandson are good for turning on sealed beam dock lights.
I was a little worried 2blinks on switch LEDs me and it's manually disabled oops. No I know lol.
So far just tested on shore power...... a bit of delay and auto combine kicks in and LEDs let you know it's working.... can't beat that part at all.
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:48 PM   #25
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When I first finished mine and was testing voltage I turned the chassis battery disconnect off thinking the ML-ACR would disconnect both bank. It didn't.
Long story short I had the switch to ON instead of Auto. Once I turned it to Auto the ML-ACR disconnect the batteries. Seems to be working great.
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Old 06-19-2021, 09:14 PM   #26
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Seems to if you go from on to Auto there's no delay if chassis is calling for juice. Kinda cool the LEDs gave an error message of manual disconnect was on. I'm too hot and too lazy to look at the rest of possible error messages. Just got done grilling eating and cleaning up.
There's no guessing if batts are combined ...at that point most likely charging , I'm running my inverter genny charging all batts right now. There's a pair of semi batts for chassis it takes a while to top those off. But I have combined those with jumper cable to brew coffee when house were looking a little too low and didn't want to fire up genny. Cranks M11 like nothing.
Supposedly there's no questions asked lifetime warranty from Bluesea.
I was also just admiring my eight new Bargman LED tail lights. It's first time I turned them on in dark and got a good distance away.
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Old 06-19-2021, 11:27 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
I chose not to as well , my view is it will be hard to spike four golf cart batteries. Some big diesel coaches actually suggest using the boost when starting.
Anyway I just kinda finished mine . I still just a 3gang switch plate and extra DPDT red switch. I chose to run the 2amp fused power wire higher and tap 2amps off that near dash and use to power/switch my dash radio to either battery bank. I like to disable chassis batteries. The puppy and grandson are good for turning on sealed beam dock lights.
I was a little worried 2blinks on switch LEDs me and it's manually disabled oops. No I know lol.
So far just tested on shore power...... a bit of delay and auto combine kicks in and LEDs let you know it's working.... can't beat that part at all.
It doesn't protect batteries, it protects your coach electronics from voltage and current spikes. Every computer board in your coach is subject to being damaged.
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Old 06-20-2021, 06:36 AM   #28
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I have had mine installed for over 6 months now and am very pleased. I guess I like two things the best, first the ability to see when the battery banks are combined and the ability to separate the banks when you desire. Once I found the spare wires from the FRB to the RRB, the install was pretty straightforward.
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