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Old 06-11-2021, 10:47 AM   #1
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Windsor owners Blue Sea ML-ACR install, I need spare wires front and back

I know that Monaco usually installed harnesses that go unused.

I am getting ready to install the Blue Sea ML-ACR with the remote button that I'd like to take the place of the existing battery boost switch.

I haven't looked under the console with Allision shifter yet. Has any Windsor owner found a set of wires running front to back, if where were they.



Getting ready to tackle this so any help would be appreciated.





BTW, when I was checking prices and availability for the ACR the best price I found was https://www.fredwarner.net/product/b...ontrol-marine/

Ordered in on Tuesday, received it Thursday. Can't beat that.
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Old 06-11-2021, 03:17 PM   #2
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So I've pulled the top and side off the console where the Allison shifter is mounted.

I found a 4 wire plug not being used but it is labeled Compression brake, all wires are white. I found a two wire plug that is labeled exhaust brake, both wires are white. I do have a Pac Brake switch that does work.

I pulled the dash and could not find any wires visible there.

I pulled the black cover on the fire wall in front of the steering column and found a single brown wire there.

I pulled both engine hatch covers in the bedroom. I did not find any wire under the large hatch in the closet. I found 2 sets of wires under the small hatch. One set there is a white and brown wire, the white wire is spliced together with a butt connector the brown wire just exposed. The second set has a white and brown wire just looped.

I crawled under the rear of coach on the passenger side and looked behind the electrical panel and the wiring along the chassis rail. NO wires that I could see.

I looked around the compressor and fuel injection pump, NO wires there.

I'm hesitant to try and use the 2 harnesses in the front for the compression/exhaust brake since they may be routed through the allison controller.

I'm going to get a tone tracer and see if I can trace the wires from the rear to the front and the one in the front.



Does anyone have suggestions on other places to look.
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Old 06-11-2021, 03:58 PM   #3
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Please confirm my thoughts on the wiring. Attached are the Blue Sea instructions.

I've also pulled the Auxiliary Start switch and looked at the wiring diagram for the Blue Sea ML-ACR and switch.

Currently there are 2 violet wires attached and 2 white which I believe are the daisy chain grounds on the Auxiliary Start Switch.

I looked at my wiring diagram and one of the violet wires goes to the isolation relay in the rear compartment. I believe the other is power coming from the house side, it shows a 7.5 amp fuse, I assume I'll find the fuse in the FDSRB. I'll test voltage and look for a fuse and label accordingly.

The Blue Sea switch shows
  • The house power to the #8 & #3 terminal so I can take the above wire coming from the FDSRB and swap a 2 amp fuse.
  • Ground wire attached to terminal #1 so I can take the ground wires and use those.
  • The #2 terminal on the switch shows remote, which I believe it the second violet wire that already exists and goes back to the isolation relays.
  • The #7 terminal is the LED, this is the spare wire I need back to the passenger side rear electrical bay.
In the Rear Passenger Side Electrical Bay the ML-ACR will displace the isolation relay, I attach the corresponding house and chassis wires large lugs. Most of the smaller control wires are accounted for in above, the remaining ones are used if you are operating more then one chassis engine, which I'm not doing.

Is my logic correct????
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Bluesea instructions.pdf (1.84 MB, 19 views)
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:09 PM   #4
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Hi Jim,

Iíve installed four ML-ACRís on different coaches, and have not had an issue since with any of them.

If you are going to run one wire front to back, may as well run two or even four or even seven.

It is a lot easier to run wires with two people, one feeding, and one pulling. I like to use the fiberglass rods from Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search...0running%20kit

The 11 ft one is great to feed the wire from the rear as the short length of the pieces is easier to manage that the 3 ft ones in the other kit.

Paul
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:53 PM   #5
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When I installed my FASS pump I actually ran 3/4" conduit for the fuel pressure sensor. So I can pull more wires through that conduit without too much problem. If I run one I'll run some extra.

I was just hoping to find some extra wires but will throw in tomorrow if I don't have any success.


Thanks for the response.
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:41 PM   #6
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I had spare bundle in armor on top drivers side rail in engine compartment. It just ends on top of a few other runs . I hadn't noticed it 40 times in engine bay but there it was. Other ends were in center console area. 12 total including shielded Belden type 10 ga yellow and 6 or 8ga red. I have a door center console area. I just haven't punched hole in dash yet and need mounting plate. I'm leaving the huge boost solenoid as is and the left side dash is pretty brittle . If your swapping boost solenoid that's one usable wire.
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:29 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
I had spare bundle in armor on top drivers side rail in engine compartment. It just ends on top of a few other runs . I hadn't noticed it 40 times in engine bay but there it was. Other ends were in center console area. 12 total including shielded Belden type 10 ga yellow and 6 or 8ga red. I have a door center console area. I just haven't punched hole in dash yet and need mounting plate. I'm leaving the huge boost solenoid as is and the left side dash is pretty brittle . If your swapping boost solenoid that's one usable wire.

I am using the one wire going to the boost solenoid as the trigger. I just need 1 more wire front to back. I'll keep looking. I haven't taking the small panel off where my radio is, I'll do that next. Have to get a tone generator/tracer to make sure I'm working with the same wire.
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Old 06-12-2021, 03:12 PM   #8
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Made one more futile attempt to find extra wires. I also bought a tone generator and probe, I tested for the one single wire I found in the front but did not have any success getting any signal back in the engine bay area or RRB.



So I just went ahead and pulled five 14awg wires back to front. Went pretty considering I did it alone. Got that done today and will tackle installing the Blue Sea ML-ACR either Sunday or Monday.
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Old 06-12-2021, 03:30 PM   #9
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Oops I had typed this up way earlier ...too bad You didn't find any extras maybe it goes by models and how many left over...You can just first test any wire to ground and if powered as not to short it out ,then just ground that wire test other end to ground. We ring out whole bundles that way. Sometimes extra labels under the tape in a pull of wires can make it harder to pull.
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Old 06-13-2021, 03:31 PM   #10
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Well after spending a couple days looking for spare wires without success and spending a 1/2 a day just pulling 5 new wires I finally got to the actual install on the ML-ARC today. It actually took about 2 hours to install it and the switch, no real issues other then I had to enlarge the holes in the battery cable ends as the lugs on the ML-ARC were a size bigger. The rest was pretty easy other then having zero extra length of wire on the original Auxiliary start switch making it tricky to attach the wires to the new switch.

If the Blue Sea ML-ARC performs as it is advertised it is a very simple system that takes the place of the Isolation Relay, BIRD, and battery maintainer (which I was starting to have issues with).



For the time being I am leaving the Lambert LE415 in place but not operational. Same with the BIRD control. Once I get a trip under my belt and know the Blue Sea is working I'll remove.
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Old 06-13-2021, 04:18 PM   #11
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Jim,

I'm curious what your coach has? I think you have a BIRD. I have a IRD in my 06. Not sure why monaco kept changing things around from year to year.
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Old 06-13-2021, 07:08 PM   #12
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I have this, Bidirectional Isolator 00-00366-00, here is a newer version

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...y-00-00839-000



And this, 586-902 and isolation relay, continuous duty
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/w...-902/70101970/


I also have the Lambert LE-415 battery maintainer which I have become leary off. It does not seem to be keeping my chassis battery up, I've been checking the voltages over the last couple weeks and the chassis battery is usually 12.5-12.6 while the house charge at 13.3-13.5.



Hoping the Blue Sea takes care of my worries.
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Old 06-14-2021, 11:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I have this, Bidirectional Isolator 00-00366-00, here is a newer version

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...y-00-00839-000



And this, 586-902 and isolation relay, continuous duty
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/w...-902/70101970/


I also have the Lambert LE-415 battery maintainer which I have become leary off. It does not seem to be keeping my chassis battery up, I've been checking the voltages over the last couple weeks and the chassis battery is usually 12.5-12.6 while the house charge at 13.3-13.5.



Hoping the Blue Sea takes care of my worries.
Yep, all different. As mentioned, I have the IRD and I put in a echo charger years ago. I changed out the relay a couple years ago. Haven't had any issue, but I thought if I did, I might go your route.

Keep us posted.
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Old 06-15-2021, 03:28 PM   #14
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Here is the Blue Sea ML-ACR installed in my passenger side rear run bay. It takes up a little more space then the original Isolation Relay but the the the way he wires were initially installed it was easy to substitue the the ML-ACR. The only issue I had was that they lugs on the new ML-ACR were larger then the Isolation Relay but I simply took a drill/bit and enlarged them.

I left the maintainer in place but it is not getting wired in. I just disconnected the relay wire on the BIRD. Other then having to run a new wire to the front this was a pretty easy install.

I now have ~13.3 volts charging both battery banks. With the maintainer I was not seeing that often and usually the chassis battery would be 12.6 volts.
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