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Old 05-27-2016, 09:39 AM   #1
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Zone 2 not working

So, a few weeks ago I noticed that Zone 2 (MBR area in rear) would not turn on. The LED on the Thermostat showed both Zones were available but only Zone 1 would turn on and operate as expected. In fact, as I toggled the thermostat to Zone 2, there were no options at all, just a blank screen. Then I read on a post how to reset a Duo-Therm Thermostat by turning it off, depressing the Zone and Mode buttons together, turning on the unit, and then letting go of the buttons. The reset flashed the "FF" code and then Zone 2 disappeared completely. I opened the panel on the rear unit and checked the wiring and it looks ok but don't know what else to look at. Assume it could be a breaker problem.

Any help is appreciated. It is getting warm in the Mid-Atlantic
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:42 AM   #2
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Could you add the year of your coach and more info on the controller , 4 button or 5 , to your post .
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:45 AM   #3
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Our 5-button Comfort Control thermostat will not reset properly if ANY florescent light is on the the MH!

Try the procedure again

1. Turn off the slide switch under the thermostat

2. Wait a couple of minutes

3. Press the "Mode" and "Zone" buttons together and hold them while turning the slide switch back on. Wait about 15 seconds and release both buttons.

4. Wait about 5 minutes before touching anything!!!! Give everything time to properly reset.


Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:46 AM   #4
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It's a 2001 HR Endeavor with a 5 button controller. Assume pic attached are the breakers. Not sure which one would be for the rear unit.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:59 AM   #5
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Here is a close up pic of the controller circuit board. Is it just me or does it appear that there is some corrosion in the center of the picture?
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:06 AM   #6
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Yep, it's definitely corrosion! Don't know if it's causing any trouble, but I would unplug it, use an old toothbrush with 91% alcohol to clean it really good, and wait a few minutes for the alcohol to dry.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:07 AM   #7
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Corrosion and a poor solder joint on one spot; top right of the 4 . May be correctable with the proper equipment .

EDIT: All the wiring in the other picture is for 12volt circuits . Chassis and coach battery . You need to check for a household type circuit breaker box to check the rear A/C power supply.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:14 AM   #8
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Thanks a bunch everyone. This is the 2nd controller circuit board that has done this is the past two years. It seems like I am getting some water or condensation on the circuit board and I assume it get toasted when I power it up. Not sure how water could be getting back there but I definitely don't want to have to buy a new thermostat every year. Maybe I should always inspect it before the 1st use of the season.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:17 AM   #9
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It may not be toasted. Clean it good with the alcohol and try the reset exactly like I suggested. What can you lose?
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:26 AM   #10
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The other thing you can do is check the modular connectors on the flat telephone-type cable from the thermostat to the A/C, and between the control boards on both A/C. The contacts should be gold and shiny. Those can corrode and cause all sorts of weird problems. You may find a coupling or two visible when you open the A/C return air grill. Check those first, but you may have to go on the roof, remove the shroud, remove the metal access plate covering the control board, then unplug the cable from the control board.

These connectors can be cleaned with alcohol and toothbrush also, but it's important that you turn off ALL DC voltage before doing that! The easiest way is usually just to turn off the battery disconnect switches.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:38 AM   #11
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Thanks again and will do. Always prefer to tinker with things before I spend tons of $$ on new parts.
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Old 05-27-2016, 02:48 PM   #12
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Before and after cleaning pics

Will test to see if it works tomorrow morning. I may re-soldier them as well.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadrun View Post
Before and after cleaning pics

Will test to see if it works tomorrow morning. I may re-soldier them as well.

That looks good! I think I would try it before re-soldering the terminals. Sometimes you can accidentally short out terminals on the other side of the circuit board when the hot solder runs.

It would be good if you could spray the board with a clear acrylic to waterproof it. You can get an ignition spray at the auto parts store. Spray a coat on, let it dry, then spray a second one on.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:51 PM   #14
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Important! Put A piece of tape over the modular jack before you spray the board !
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