Community Forums

Jim Woodman · 11-13-2011, 02:32 PM

With bypass ball valve in Winterize position, I pumped 3 gallons of antifreeze before I realized it was all pouring out of the water heater drain plug. I removed and checked the ball valve and it was fine so the antifreeze must have entered the wh through the mixing valve. Is there a check valve that should have prevented that from happening? I tried to remove the mixing valve to clean and perhaps "unblock" the check valve but I couldn't budge the mixing valve. How do you remove it?

HB Phil · 11-13-2011, 07:01 PM

Jim, the heater tank bypass valve on my atwood is on the rear of the heater. The handle should be set so it appears to go across the inlet line, vs positioned in line with the inlet pipe, as if the internal valve is across and blocking anything going in. If the bypass valve it shut water/antifreeze will not go up the line to the mixer valve.

You do not need to adjust the mixer valve during winterization. You need to close the water heater by pass valve.

HB Phil · 11-13-2011, 07:32 PM

If the ball valve/bypass valve is shut it will not allow water tot travel to the mixing valve.

Workshop · 11-13-2011, 07:44 PM

This might help.

Jim Woodman · 11-13-2011, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HB Phil

Jim, the heater tank bypass valve on my atwood is on the rear of the heater. The handle should be set so it appears to go across the inlet line, vs positioned in line with the inlet pipe, as if the internal valve is across and blocking anything going in. If the bypass valve it shut water/antifreeze will not go up the line to the mixer valve.

You do not need to adjust the mixer valve during winterization. You need to close the water heater by pass valve.

HB Phil, thanks for replying. I guess I should have provided more detail in my post. I used to only blow my water lines out to winterize the water lines (no antifreeze) but this year I thought I'd try not blowing the lines and only using antifreeze so I am a newbie at this form of winterizing. I drained my water heater and left the plug out. Then I set the wh bypass valve (yellow valve behind wh) to the winterized position (vertical, so it crossed the line vs in line with the line). Then started pumping antifreeze. I turned on the kitchen faucet and waited to see antifreeze flowing but it never came. Went through two more gallons before it dawned on me that something was wrong (you'd think it might have dawned on me sooner

. I went around the other side of my L36TKE and saw antifreeze coming out the wh drain plug. My 3 gallons of antifreeze were on the ground. I called Peterson Ind and Daren said the problem is either my bypass ball valve (with the yellow lever) or the mixing valve. So, first, I removed the bypass ball valve and inspected it in both open and closed positions and ran water through it at my brick house kitchen sink (Right now my RV is in my driveway for a few days). It worked fine so I reinstalled it. So it seems like the problem is in the mixing valve.

I agree with your first two sentences in your reply but I go astray at your last sentence. If you leave the yellow bypass valve open (in line with the inlet pipe, water/antifreeze should go through the bypass valve and go around the 90 degree bend and enter the water heater at the cold water inlet. If you shut the yellow valve (turn it vertical so it crosses the inlet pipe in the winterized position) then the water/antifreeze should go up the white flexible hose to the mixing valve at the top rear of the water heater. From there, it should go right through and out the mixing valve into the hot water line and not be allowed to backflow through the mixing valve into the water heater. That's my understanding of the bypass process on this wh. Am I misunderstanding it? It seems like there ought to be some sort of check valve in the mixing valve to prevent backflow into the wh. If there is such a check valve, maybe it is stuck open and allowed my antifreeze into the water heater?

Jim Woodman · 11-13-2011, 08:17 PM

The picture seems to verify my understanding: I don't have separate hot and cold valves as pictured in A and B. I have the setup pictured just below that which shows the GE16EXT. With the bypass valve in the normal open position (in line with the line) some cold water goes up the line to the mixing valve but most of the cold water goes right through the bypass valve and directly into the hot water tank to be heated and stored. As hot water is used it comes out of the hot water heater at the top rear of the wh, through the mixing valve where some cold water is added to it and on into the hot water line. If you shut the bypass valve ALL of the cold water goes up the hose to the mixing valve and on out into the hot water line instead of into the water heater.

HB Phil · 11-13-2011, 09:27 PM

The way I winterized mine, I wanted a small amount of the rv antifreeze solution to pass through the mixer valve and enter the water heater so I kept the bypass valve open/normal position until I got some flow, (1/2 pint?), from the water heater with drain plug removed and drained.

Then I placed the bypass valve into the bypass/winterize position and the rv antifreeze solution bypassed the mixing valve and went to the faucets w/o backflkowing into the water heater.

I wanted to leave some residual anti freeze in the mixer valve.

HB Phil · 11-13-2011, 09:31 PM

Yep it sounds like you are doing it right but are still getting the flow into the wh. I really don't know how to advise you in this case. Could be there is a stuck open check valve? I really don't know. Sorry.

Jim Woodman · 11-14-2011, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HB Phil

Yep it sounds like you are doing it right but are still getting the flow into the wh. I really don't know how to advise you in this case. Could be there is a stuck open check valve? I really don't know. Sorry.

Ok, thanks for listening. I'll try Peterson Ind again today to see what they say and I'll post the result if you're interested.

HB Phil · 11-14-2011, 09:16 AM

Thanks Jim I'd like to know because it could happen to me too. I just repaired the mixing valve and replaced the water pump so I'm focused on the plumbing end of things at the moment.

Jim Woodman · 11-14-2011, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HB Phil

Thanks Jim I'd like to know because it could happen to me too. I just repaired the mixing valve and replaced the water pump so I'm focused on the plumbing end of things at the moment.

You repaired it? Wow! What did you repair in it? I was told there is nothing that can be fixed in this valve; you have to replace it when it goes bad. By the way, I spoke with tech spprt at Atwood and they confirmed there is a check valve in the water heater side and that calcium and other hard deposits can form that will keep the valve from closing against the seal. That would allow backflow into the water heater. He also said there is no trick to removing it, just apply more force. So I unhooked the hot water side, stuck a large screwdrive in the hole and pounded the screwdriver blade with a rubber mallet to try to loosen the valve. That worked and I removed the valve and checked the check valve and sure enough it was not closing all the way against the seal (thus allowing fluid to backflow into the water heater). I'm soaking it in white vinegar for about 48 hours to see if that loosens everything enough to make a proper seal. If it doesn't, I'll order a new mixing valve. Atwood wants $193 for one and they suggested I could find it cheaper elsewhere but so far the best price I found is $185 at Leo's RV center in Gambrills, Md (about 40 miles from my house). I hope the vinegar works! I'm a retiree trying to stretch every dollar!

HB Phil · 11-14-2011, 02:24 PM

Wow that's expensive. Good job troubleshooting that. Here is my description of repairing he mixing valve. Now that I can adjust it by turning the cap, if it gets stuck again, I believe I can work it loose by opening/closing the valve. If you have access to the rear of the wh, it was actually pretty easy. Definitely better than forking out $165 for a new one.

Good luck with that check valve. I bet you can free it up. Still what a pita monkeying around with these wh's.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f116/atwo...ir-105558.html

Jim Woodman · 11-15-2011, 04:51 PM

Thanks CS Phil. I read that thread; nice work and good detail. I didn't have the same problem but after reading your thread I was curious so I tried popping that little glue glob out with the tip of a small pocket knife. After a couple tries the whole glob popped right out. Hope that helps some other readers who might try that first before drilling the screw out.

HB Phil · 11-15-2011, 07:58 PM

That's great Jim. Now you can adjust the temp of your hot water, plus, work it loose if it gets frozen in the lukewarm position, like happens to a lot of folks.

Mine looked like the center gob on the cap was silver like solder so I just drilled it.

Let us know how that vinegar check valve science project turns out.