Finally had temperatures warm enough to operate the A/C without having to put a heat lamp on the T-stat.
Temps this week to be in mid-70's.
Had an amperage reading of 30.5 with the A/C, WH, Refrig, TV, DVD. This included 4.5amps from the converter to run 60% of the lights and the Charge wizard in maintenance mode. With the microwave on, readings increased to 41.5amps. Come to think of it, used to run simular demands on my prior unit which had a 30 amp service!?!?!
AS stated before, the black input leg carried all my load except for the WD and a Rear outlet circuit. As we wouldn't be installing a WD, I moved the WD and Rear outlet to the Back leg and installed the Water heater and Microwave to the red leg. By doing this I have 18.9amps on the black and 22.6 amps on the red with everything running. The white, neutral, read 7.6 amps compared to the 41.5 amps as before.
Can see, after taking amperage reading on everything that we would use in or on the RV that it would be hard to have a balanced load per leg that would be designed into a stick built. With electric or gas, intermit use as with coffee pots and simular equipment, devices on and off by T-stats and limited number of circuits to work with. If I was installing a WD, would have left it on the red and maybe swapped the Rear outlet and microwave.
Still will just manage the load when connecting to a 30 amp pedestal.
Simply started out installing a Power Inlet for the converter, ended up taking that other fork in the road as a side trip.
One thing that I noticed while digging through it all....the air conditioner, water heater, microwave and washer/dryer each had their own 20 amp breaker. The GFI breaker, a 20 amp, provides protection to a large area of the 5th wheel's living area and two outside outlets. As someone who looks for details, I thought the breaker panel and the exposed wire routing I was able to see was nicely done.
Linear Mode
