Community Forums

Still Working "NOT" · 06-02-2010, 09:50 PM

I'm glad I got you guys to looking. I didn't have the time when I posted. Would hate to see you use the wrong material and have a bigger problem.

Team work comes thru again.

Workshop · 06-03-2010, 11:22 AM

Here are several photos of the bottom glide sytem on my unit.

Bottom glides and the box/mount. On my unit the box is flush with the top of the enclosure frame. The glides will hold the pantry box off the frame the height of the glide, 'bout 1 1/4".

Glides/pantry being extended...about +1/4" of clearance between bottom of glide and frame.

Not being there to see your setup...if your pantry is operating without a problem 'bout half way out and then needs to be lifted on the front to extend fully...

You possibly have a problem with the box the glides are attached to, NOT the correct height and allows the glides to rub, or maybe the box isn't level and as the glides are extended....it causes it to rub ?

Check to see if the pantry box isn't rubbing on the door closer hardware.

If the glide hardware is installed correctly and the mounts/bases are correct, the glide hardware provides a wide clearance all around if its like mine.

Check to make sure its secure and not loose in the mounts. most of the screws on mine needed 1/2 to 1 turn to tighten, but thats normal over time.

And then that is that wine bottle thingie Rockin' mentioned. Make sure nothing is under the pantry box that possibly shouldn't be there.

Let us know what you find.

workhorse

Workshop · 06-03-2010, 11:34 AM

Picked up the tubing this moring, as usual it's hard to get what one wants. When it was dropped off at a local propane dealer to have a replacement made, I asked and requested it be bent to match the original. No problem. Well its straight and 4 inches longer. I should have asked someone at the local garden shop to do the work, might have got what I wanted. Simple request. Now I know why I don't take my unit anywhere.

Will bend and install the tube after lunch. No markings on tubing...but was told it was a 'K'.

Copper Tube Hand Book is a reference I've looked at when required. It's a 6 meg PDF file and if your into those things might be useful.

workhorse

Workshop · 06-03-2010, 08:28 PM

Well the new gas line is installed as well as a few other projects along the way. A stop was added to the pantry box so crushed tubing isn't in the future. Running the refrig on gas tonight to ensure all is well.

workhorse

Still Working "NOT" · 06-03-2010, 09:36 PM

Work,

Hope you soap tested the fittings for gas leaks. Just mix up some dishwater soap in a glass of water and wipe soap/water mixture around fittings. I olny suggest this since you stated that you don't like working with gas.

Workshop · 06-04-2010, 06:52 AM

Thanks for asking the question about checking the connections. I figured Rockin' would have caught me on that, as well as ask about the stop for the pantry. After looking at the initial photo, it almost looked as if the rubber/foam wrap on the gas line was the stop...its not.

When I was working on the gas system I turned both gas tank valves off. When the work was complete...the active tank, which was on the right, was turned on and as the valve was opened...could hear the hiss of gas...when the valve was completely opened the hiss was still there and the smell of gas was present. I turned the valve off and moved the selector to the other tank and opened the valve without a problem.

Soap solution was applied to the two fittings that were removed as well as the tank/pigtail connection and pigtail/regulator without a 'bubble'. The stove was lite to help pressure/flow and took three attempts to get the refrig to light. The stove was turned off and soap was applied again to the two gas fittings again without a leak.

The refrig was turned off while I vacuumed the back of the refrig where I had been working, checked and vac'ed the burner box and just general maintenance items and look at me's. When complete it lite on first try and took a look at the flame before installing the cover on the burner box.

The refrig was turned back off and I when to troubleshoot the right side tank leak. I removed the connector from the tank and wiped everthing down, nothing seemed out of place. When connected the leak was still there. The interesting thing...this is the tank that was in use before the repair started...the valve was just turned off...when back on a leak at the connector. Go figure, I'm starting to feel like Bruce is rubbing off on me !! Running the Frig on gas overnite and will troubleshoot the connection today if I get the chance. Always something.

Good bubble show on the right connector.

This is the stop I added to the top of the pantry. Stops the glides/box just at the right spot to slide the latch closed.

This is a view of the pantry and refrig and why I might have had a problem and not a concern for some.

Thanks for checking Still,

workhorse

Still Working "NOT" · 06-04-2010, 07:50 AM

Glad you did all that. Looks like you'll need a new hose at the tank, as i don't know of a way to fix them unless you can find a place to put a new end on. I had a sloooow leak at the end of the hose from the crossover pipe to the auto switch regulator. It was a lot less than yours and it would not let propane into the regulator to run the hot water heater or furnance. Finally got somewhere where I could buy a new hose. Seems to have fixed the problem. I'll know for sure this winter.

rockintom · 06-04-2010, 09:36 AM

Woody,

Sorry I wasn't here to hold your hand on this deal.....I had to work!!

Regarding the hose connection leak.......that's just bad luck! I agree with still, hose replacement time! As you may know, you have to not only match up the hose length, but the check valve area has a sized orifice. The only reason I know is my old Journey had hoses with too small orifice and under high demand times (all burners on stove on, furnance, water heater, and etc. running at the same time.) the switchover regulator would come up red (on my unit, that would turn on my flashing LED light in the rig). Marshall gas sent me 2 new hoses that were about .15 (IIRC) bigger and that took care of that issue.

BTW, the stop looks good on the pantry, nice clean countersunk screws (probably stainless, too!!). Now you just have to color match and varnish

.......don't look at me like that.....you're the anal "wood" guy here!!!

rockin'

Workshop · 06-04-2010, 09:41 AM

The hissssss on the gas line wasn't what I thought....have a valve seat missing. That is what was causing the the leak at the connection.

I guess I misspoke and the tank on the right, with the problem, was a full tank and had been recently fill. The tank on the left, the good tank, was the one in use before the repair to the gas line. I used the switch over to use the right tank when I was starting the checkout of the repair. Just checking the corss over function. As I keep the not-in-use tank off when not in use during the summer, when I opened the tank valve the leak was noticed.

I was swapping the tanks to varify the pigtail was bad when I noticed a rubber seat missing from the bad valve. Called two propane dealers, one has called back to let me know that the complete valve has to be replaced. Valve and labor less than $40.00 and then fill the 30# tank. Overall $70-80 for the repair.

After all the trouble and cost it has been to 'look' at how to do something for someone....I might not do that again....

Right side valve...rubber gasket/washer missing.

Left side valve.

workhorse the gas man.

rockintom · 06-04-2010, 09:51 AM

More cash from the "Debra", iron claw controlled kitty!!! I'm sorry I thought you said you had checked the valve seals! Lesson learned. Got go and host the water aeorbics! rockin'

Workshop · 06-04-2010, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom

More cash from the "Debra", iron claw controlled kitty!!! I'm sorry I thought you said you had checked the valve seals! Lesson learned. Got go and host the water aeorbics! rockin'

Well...can't say it's been water aeorbics here today...but does feel like it's treading water time.

Rockin', It's easier to get the $$$ when the gettin' is important, that's not allowance money. It's everything else where the allowance applies.

I have to go back and change part of one of my earlier comments or statements....I didn't loose a valve seat...its just a different style. If you look at the two valves, they are slightly different and probably different mfg or ages, even tho the tanks are both 2000's. The seats are different as is the inner makings of the valve, at least my thought. The smaller one, the one that is bad/leaked, is what is more current. I'm basing that on looking at four 20# tanks and one 5# tank. can't believe that a newer 30# would be any different.

This is one of the 20# tanks and the only difference in the seats is HOW compressed/worn the seat was, but basically the same.

Decided to go looking for trouble when I installed the 'bad tank' in the left side until I had time to deal with it. For fun I installed the pigtail and turned on the gas....no leak. Didn't make sense. Spent time on the web but didn't find what I was looking for. SO decided to hook up a portable grill with the Type 1 connector....leaked but not as bad....tried the portable from the house, no leak!

Will have the valve replaced before I use the tank even though it doesn't leak in the left position. Just one of those old age things I guess. Doesn't pay to be compressed all the time!

Jim & Bona · 06-10-2010, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Workshop

Well...I guess I need to thank Jim & Bona for either giving me something else to do...or...saving me from a fire or even worse. I guess all!

workhorse

Workshop,

You are quite welcome! It is I who really need to thank you & Tom for the help removing the pantry box. As I posted in that thread, it al worked out well.

That's some serious damage to the gas line. Your guardian angel was on duty this time.

Jim