Damaged LP gas line inside unit

[Workshop]

Well...I guess I need to thank Jim & Bona for either giving me something else to do...or...saving me from a fire or even worse. I guess all!

While trying to answer his question about how to remove his pantry box to do a repair, I checked my unit for the slide hardware disconnect location. Laying on the floor with one eye closed and the other trying to focus on the hardware, the flashlight shining on the rear wall, I noticed that the LP gas line for the refrig that runs through this space appeared damage?!?!

Visibility using a flashlight and looking through that thin opening couldn't varify the extent of damage if there was any. This resulted in the removal, using the exposed screws, of the pantry box. Yes it was damaged and will have to be replaced. Appears the pantry box has no stops on the inward travel that has allowed it to make contact with the back wall and in this case the gas line. Would assume it has been this way forever.

Overview with the pantry removed. On the right where the gas line passes through the wall, I can insert a screwdriver into the back of the refrig compartment. Not good!





Closeup of the damage to gas line. Appears to be compressed +1/2 of the diameter.




Outside view of gas line entering slide.




Gas line routing behind refrig.





Will contact a local gas company today and see if I can get a replacement made, I don't do gas. Should be easy enough to replace and seal up the hole between the compartments.

I said in one of the first Post of '101' I did on my unit...

Have not had the plumbing leaks others have had. Find as I develop a History with the unit, I am sorting things out that need the attention that my prior did not and in time will develop the maintenance checklist for my Excel. I agree with what Tom said in Best Practices_____I "logged" almost all things! Not all a bad habit. Drives Ms. Donna a bit crazy. _____can not believe I still quote him. Having a good record of what you do to your unit is important. As I have not had one for mine, I pay attention to what others are commenting on and check my unit out. In a since, your history could be mine and in some cases its not.

Three years later, I find I have that history but I still go out and look at my unit when others have had issues. Sometimes it's surprising what I find !

Thanks again Jim.

workhorse

[Workshop]

Removing the gas line wasn't bad. Arms almost long to to reach the area. Dropped the line off at a local propane dealer that made a new line to match for less than $20.00. Materials would be almost half that. Will install tomorrow.

This is the bent/crushed section. Will install a bumper in the back and/or change routing if necessary.




Would guess it doesn't take much gas to run the refrigerator. Wonder how it will work with a new line?

[rockintom]

Oh my goodness, work!!! Great find. You say the propane part of the refer was working? Man... what a deal!! So glad you found it this way and not another. The refer takes very little LPG to run....very little.

I didn't know there be anything special about the copper tubing other than the double flares. Did you find out something special about this tubing?

Well, did the pantry come out the way you thought it would? rockin'

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by rockintom

Oh my goodness, work!!! Great find. You say the propane part of the refer was working? Man... what a deal!! So glad you found it this way and not another. The refer takes very little LPG to run....very little.

I didn't know there be anything special about the copper tubing other than the double flares. Did you find out something special about this tubing?

Well, did the pantry come out the way you thought it would? rockin'

The refrig has fired on the first time every time, no problems cooling even in this Florida heat. Ran it this weekend.

I don't think that there is anything special about the gas line...just standard copper tubing from what I could tell... Even though I have a flaring tools and spring tubing, at the cost of the tubing and the fittings, I decided to drop it off and do other shopping instead. Besides its not wood.

I found this problem because of Jim's question on how to remove his pantry box....as in the photos of my unit's slide hardware, simply removed the 3 screws on top and the 6 on the bottom and lifted it off. Then the fun began.

workhorse

[rockintom]

Thanks for the update, work.......your are the best! rockin'

[Hermandutchman]

work now that you had your pantry out do you have any idea as to why with mine when I get it out about half way it needs to be lifted up to come the rest of the way out

[Still Working "NOT"]

There may be a special type of copper for propane. I know that when you bury copper pipe that it takes a special type of copper pipe. Seems like it it had a letter K on the box which meant it could be buried undeground. The K meant it would not corrode as easy. There are different grades of copper.

Glad you found this this way.

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by Hermandutchman

work now that you had your pantry out do you have any idea as to why with mine when I get it out about half way it needs to be lifted up to come the rest of the way out

Would guess it has to do with the bottom slides. This is the picture I posted on Jim's thread, notice the spacing/distance between the bottom of the slide hardware and the top of the frame. I have a fair distance. The only thing I would guess is to look under your unit with it all the way in, half way out and fully out and see what spacing you have.

My slides sits on a built up platform of sorts. I will look at it closer tomorrow and take a picture if I think it might help. Wonder if it's a height issue on yours? When you extend the pantry...is the slides rubbing or the bottom of the pantry box?





workhorse

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Still Working "NOT"

There may be a special type of copper for propane. I know that when you bury copper pipe that it takes a special type of copper pipe. Seems like it it had a letter K on the box which meant it could be buried undeground. The K meant it would not corrode as easy. There are different grades of copper.

Glad you found this this way.

I've done a little reading here - copper tubing info. Appears there are 3 main types of copper tubing, K, L, and M. K being the heavier duty and it goes down from there. Looks like to me K and L are approved for LPG applications. Learn something new everyday.

If anyone has more poop on this.... please chime in. rockin'

[Hermandutchman]

Originally Posted by Workshop

Would guess it has to do with the bottom slides. This is the picture I posted on Jim's thread, notice the spacing/distance between the bottom of the slide hardware and the top of the frame. I have a fair distance. The only thing I would guess is to look under your unit with it all the way in, half way out and fully out and see what spacing you have.

My slides sits on a built up platform of sorts. I will look at it closer tomorrow and take a picture if I think it might help. Wonder if it's a height issue on yours? When you extend the pantry...is the slides rubbing or the bottom of the pantry box?





workhorse

Thanks,I have jury duty this month so it will be awhile before I check .

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Hermandutchman

work now that you had your pantry out do you have any idea as to why with mine when I get it out about half way it needs to be lifted up to come the rest of the way out

Hermandiecmeister,

I had that problem and found an empty wine bottle caught up under there!!! Sorry, I just couldn't resist!

Seriously, couldn't you lay on the floor and watch what's happening on the bottom rails as you move the pantry in and out using a flashlight? Bet you'll determine the cause real quick. rockin'

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by Still Working "NOT"

There may be a special type of copper for propane. I know that when you bury copper pipe that it takes a special type of copper pipe. Seems like it it had a letter K on the box which meant it could be buried undeground. The K meant it would not corrode as easy. There are different grades of copper.

Glad you found this this way.

Still this is the information i sometime use for copper, as I don't have a need, have to look up information when I go looking. The codes, types, are K, L and M and refers to the thickness of the material. K & L would be the most logical choice. I will look for references on the pipe when I pick the new tubing up tomorrow. The M would be way to thin.

workhorse

[Workshop]

I can't keep up with the postings.

Almost have to go back to the top and check for unread post to keep up and not say the same thing.

workhorse

[rockintom]

Yeah work,

But you're hell on wheels with the wood stuff.....you need to get an assistant to do all the petty postings!!! rockin'