Community Forums

Still Working "NOT" · 10-03-2013, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom

Oh for gosh sakes, still, that was an option in 2003!!!!

GEEZ!!

NOT

jamvir · 10-03-2013, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbstacker48

Well unfortunately mine doesn't have the plywood plate on the bottom and there are only 6 screws along one edge that are attached to a small, actually the very limited access is right next to fresh water tank. That being said, guess I have a project for next spring since it's too late to do anything with it now, or maybe I'll schedule something with Excel, I grew up in the town next to Smith Center and am going to be back there next spring anyway. We are suppose to be getting snow this weekend already. Thanks for the information.

I've read on another forum that some have cut a large enough opening to work through on 3 sides, with the uncut side towards the front of the 5er, then folded the bottom down. Then they used duct tape to close it.

Jim

TexasTwoStep · 10-08-2013, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocky Larson

This picture is one solution. Most of us tapped the proper hole and installed a Zerk fitting so we could lube it when needed. http://www.macandchris.com/images/11...alve_small.jpg

I like this idea and think I will implement it first when I get to home base and then if that doesn't work try the cables. Is that a zerk I am seeing or just a screw filling the hole?
Both my valves are spongy plus the added bonus of leakage thru the valves. Makes each dump a new experience. Especially when the splatter factor is high.

TexasTwoStep · 10-09-2013, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom

Steve,
Another way is use a couple of pints of mineral oil used in the same way. Mineral oil will not harm the seals and is available in the pharmacy area at WM or the like and is much cheaper than the additive.

Decided to try Tom's magic mineral oil treatment instead of tearing into the underbelly access panel and putting in zerts which will be tight quarters to say the least.
Here's what I did.I emptied the gray tank totally, closed the valve and added 1 pint of mineral oil at the top of the vent vacuum breaker?? (which screws off and on) inside the sliding door compartment in the bay. Doing this allowed me to pour directly into the gray tank, bypassing any traps. Once poured in I barely opened the gate valve and caught the mineral oil as it came out for recycling. I then worked the valve handle a few times and the sponginess was gone.
Next project is the black tank, same procedure with 5 pints of mineral oil. Will need hook-ups to do this.
Wonder if the Camco additive I use could contribute to the problem.

Tom and mineral oil can really get things moving.
Thanks all.

rockintom · 10-10-2013, 08:01 PM

Gary, you are too kind. I never thought of AAV to by-pass the trap. See in numbers we are powerful. With wine we are amazing!

Or we think we are!!! Thanks for the report. rockin'

TexasTwoStep · 10-14-2013, 07:41 AM

Finally got to do the black tank valve with the same result as the gray I posted earlier.

TexasTwoStep · 10-16-2013, 02:55 PM

Here is info from Valterra on their cable dump valves systems.

rockintom · 10-16-2013, 03:04 PM

Good info Gary!!! Thanks. rockin'

TXiceman · 10-16-2013, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocky Larson

Whatever is in my grease gun when lubing the chassis. Nothing fancy. Just a few pumps for the gray and several more for the black. Not as often as the chassis but I don't wait until they get hard to move either.

You need to be careful using a petroleum based grease on rubber or neoprene, etc. seal. It can cause the seal to swell and deteriorate faster.

Ken

TOWEN · 10-27-2013, 04:40 PM

Gary: Thanks a million for the Valterra info. Yesterday when I opened the gray-water tank valve, the set screw at the valve slipped and the cable pulled completely out of the cable housing. And, ever since the valve was replaced about a year ago, it has felt spongy ... probably the cable is way too long and/or not properly anchored ... now I know how to fix it. I'm just very glad that it is the gray-water valve and that it failed in the open position.

georgetown350 · 10-27-2013, 05:22 PM

I replaced a sewer gate on a 2008 HR . It was an easy job just a few screws pull it out and put the new one in. And they aren't expensive.

ARRET · 10-28-2013, 09:33 AM

Tried the mineral oil on my black tank valve which had been hard to open and close. Put one bottle in and now it works very easy. Also keeps my stool gasket working good between dumps.

gonfercoffee · 10-31-2013, 05:28 AM

The grey water cable in my 2007 TKE was way too long. Optional hatch would make changing it a treat. I slithered in from the basement after clearing the rats nest of wiring and plumbing out of the way. The Old Lady had to pull me out by my ankles...

Should have changed it out when opened up the bottom of the coach a few years ago. Next time I do that I'm gonna instal a big hatch.

Gonfer