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Old 05-25-2013, 03:11 PM   #15
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Thanks, I'll check mine.

My inverter fan sounds like it is laboring after running more than an hour. Faint electrical smell after running over an hour. Have noted on several occasions the fridge temp higher than 36 after running on inverter for several hours. It gets enough power for the internal LED light, but not enough to cool. The fridge runs reliably at 36 on shore power.

Sounds like you have this thing evaluated pretty good and appears to be an inverter that may fall into the EL category!!! Sorry I couldn't pass this one up. I'm alota help!!! Maybe the inverter is about 500 watts shy.... rockin'
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:45 PM   #16
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Sounds like you have this thing evaluated pretty good and appears to be an inverter that may fall into the EL category!!!.....'
Yep, I definitely have an EL inverter in my Winslow.

It's not crimping my style too much, but need to get it replaced.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #17
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Russell, you asked what I came up with and I thought it was the Cotek. I called www.donrowe.com and wound up with a Kisae SW1210 1000w pure sine wave inverter (which is on sale for $249 thru tomorrow), Kisae auto transfer switch TS15A and a remote on/off switch RM1201-00 for a total price of $327.95. I accomplished the same thing I would have with the Cotek but for about $110 less money. The tech at Don Rowe Inverters was very knowledgeable and helpful and said the Kisae is a very good product. The difference is the transfer switch is a separate item instead of being built in like the Cotek, but works the same way.

I did have a question about the wiring of the inverter as the manual for the both the Kisae and the Cotek say to keep the power feed from the batteries as short as possible, preferably under 6 feet. It appears the total run to the current one is about 14 feet and passes thru a 50 amp fuse. The manual for the Kisae and the Cotek both call for a 150 amp fuse. To make the run shorter I am going to direct wire the new inverter to the battery and put in an in line 150 amp Bussman Hi Amp circuit breaker/switch which I found on Amazon for $27.84. The run will now be about 7 feet. I will use 2 awg wire and with the Bussman I can kill the power to the inverter, which does use some even under no load. I will only need the power wire as the ground wire on the current inverter will work fine.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:56 PM   #18
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Jim, thanks for the update.

I think my run from the battery to the inverter is about 6'.

It's much closer on late model 2013 Excels due to the change in location of the battery box.

I'll measure when I get home.

Thanks,
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:34 PM   #19
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My battery box is only about 4' from where the inverter is mounted but the wiring takes circuitous route and ends up in the area behind the bay storage. I plan to take a more direct route with the new one and cut the distance in half.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:03 AM   #20
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Thanks, I'll check mine.

My inverter fan sounds like it is laboring after running more than an hour. Faint electrical smell after running over an hour. Have noted on several occasions the fridge temp higher than 36 after running on inverter for several hours. It gets enough power for the internal LED light, but not enough to cool. The fridge runs reliably at 36 on shore power.
I replaced the inverter, but the problem continued.

I took it to Doug's RV to diagnose the problem. Josh, their RV tech, discovered that it was not properly wired to the inverter from the factory. He re-ran the cables to the inverter. It now works as it should!

If you have a residential refrigerator with inverter, check the power supply to your inverter.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:08 AM   #21
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I replaced the inverter, but the problem continued.

I took it to Doug's RV to diagnose the problem. Josh, their RV tech, discovered that it was not properly wired to the inverter from the factory. He re-ran the cables to the inverter. It now works as it should!

If you have a residential refrigerator with inverter, check the power supply to your inverter.
Doc,

They must have made a mistake at the PI factory. They installed the same EL inverter in my Limited. The trailer is currently at Bennett's having the inverter replaced, along with other warranty work. Janis and I took a trip to Eagle Nest, NM the week of the Fourth of July. We drove through West Texas twice with temperatures over 100°. The refrigerator temperature remained steady while on the inverter, but I also detected an overheated electrical smell. The inverter made it through the trip, but it developed a rattle that sounded like it had BB’s in the fan

Since our trailers were made about the same time, it’s possible mine is wired incorrectly. For clarification, was the 12 volt DC power from the batteries incorrectly wired to the inverter and/or was the 120 volt AC power incorrectly wired to the refrigerator AC outlet? Do you have specifics on how it was incorrectly wired?

Thanks
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:54 AM   #22
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....The inverter made it through the trip, but it developed a rattle that sounded like it had BB’s in the fan ....For clarification, was the 12 volt DC power from the batteries incorrectly wired to the inverter and/or was the 120 volt AC power incorrectly wired to the refrigerator AC outlet? Do you have specifics on how it was incorrectly wired?....
Carl:

Replacing the inverter will not solve the problem.

The 12V feed from the battery to the inverter was the issue.

Have your service manager contact Peterson Industries for specifics.

The tech at Doug's made detailed notes as to the problem and sent it to Peterson for the warranty claim.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:26 AM   #23
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We just got home from our 6 week, 4500 mile trip. The new inverter never missed a beat and the lowest voltage it ever showed for the batteries was 12.6 after an all day drive.

I'm not sure what wiring issues you had, Russell, but I couldn't find any problems with the wires being in the right place. It's just they were too long and not heavy enough. I'm certainly no expert so all I know is what I read, but everything I could find said to keep the wiring to the inverter as short as possible, tie it directly to the battery posts with a 150 amp breaker, in my case, and use an appropriate gauge wire. PI used 4 gauge with about a 14' run and for my new 1000w inverter the manufacturer recommended 2 gauge stranded for up to 6 feet. That's why I went with all new wiring with an in-line breaker and greatly shortened the run.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:33 AM   #24
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In the process of having Excel build a coach for us. During the process, I have spoken with Bryan several times in order to hammer out specifics. One of the items was a True Sine wave inverter. I have been reading a lot on various brands and prices and having a modified wave in a previous trailer, I opted for a true sine wave unit and spec. a Magnum 2800 with a separate electrical box that powers everything in the coach except the air conditioners, washer/dryer recpt., and the recpt. to the inverter.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:09 PM   #25
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In the process of having Excel build a coach for us. During the process, I have spoken with Bryan several times in order to hammer out specifics. One of the items was a True Sine wave inverter. I have been reading a lot on various brands and prices and having a modified wave in a previous trailer, I opted for a true sine wave unit and spec. a Magnum 2800 with a separate electrical box that powers everything in the coach except the air conditioners, washer/dryer recpt., and the recpt. to the inverter.
Welcome Excel, we hope you enjoy your new rig. How exciting. I think you are very wise to get a larger TS inverter. That way you can run sensitive electronics without worry.

Can you tell us a bit about yourself and what model you ordered? Do you plan to FT? Where do you call home? I don't see any of this in your profile and we're all family here!! Again, welcome aboard! rockin'
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