Looking for Suggestions on this problem...

[Lindaxtwo]

Need some advice from Exceler's out there...I've discovered that the screws in the first cabinet, near the door, have pulled out of the studs and the kitchen cabinet has shifted. The holes, where the screws used to be are about 1/2-3/4" to the right of where I need them to be to reattach. What is best way to realign and reattach ? Rubber mallet the cabinet base to shift it over? I thought that I could also push with my legs off the wall at bottom of steps but no resistance there (one of those flimsy walls for separation). I've attached some pictures to try and show what is happening. Should longer screws be used, once I get the holes realigned to avoid this in the future ?

[Still Working "NOT"]

Since this cabinet is also attached to the floor also you have a couple of choices.

First would be remove the screws attaching it to the floor and the other side of the cabinet to the wall. Then use match sticks in the holes to reattach to the wall. Or drill new pilot holes to reattach to the wall. Make sure that the screws go into a wood stud on the back side of the wall.

Second would be use match sticks in the holes to reattach to the wall. The match sticks must go into the stud behind the wall. Make sure that the screws go into a wood stud on the back side of the wall.

Do not use longer screws as they may come out on the outside of the wall. It looks like the screws are 2 3/4" or 3" long which should be plenty long.

Workshop will chime in since he is the best at this type of problem.

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by Lindaxtwo

Need some advice from Exceler's out there...I've discovered that the screws in the first cabinet, near the door, have pulled out of the studs and the kitchen cabinet has shifted. The holes, where the screws used to be are about 1/2-3/4" to the right of where I need them to be to reattach. What is best way to realign and reattach ? Rubber mallet the cabinet base to shift it over? I thought that I could also push with my legs off the wall at bottom of steps but no resistance there (one of those flimsy walls for separation). I've attached some pictures to try and show what is happening. Should longer screws be used, once I get the holes realigned to avoid this in the future?

Evening Lindaxtwo....sure are a lot of questions?

When you say.... the kitchen cabinet has shifted? Has the entire cabinet shifted or just that one area where the two screws were loose and removed?

From looking at this photo, it looks as if the edge formed between the counter top and wall doesn't show a gap or shift. Is there one there as well?

Is the back wall or other side of the cabinet also shifted and have loose screws. As I don't know your floorplan, is this a stand alone cabinet? My basic question about the 'cabinet has shifted' is it just this one area that is the problem? If so than that might simplifies things.





.....about 1/2-3/4" to the right__What I'm assuming and correct me if I'm wrong, is this one wall connection and possibly the section that sits on the floor has 'shifted' slightly. Also assuming the the cabinet isn't screwed to the floor in this area....? If it isn't than it will allow the front of the cabinet to shift backwards and thus 'about 1/2 - 3/4" to the right.

This photo shows the inside of the cabinet...the lower screw hole is about 5 inches above the floor. To the right of the cabinet vertical stud...there isn't any other section of the cabinet. That meaning that the cabinet box is three sided and the interior wall makes up this side of the cabinet. If there was a frame that ran between the front and rear of the cabinet on this side, other than the wall, the cabinet front wall wouldn't have shifted to the right. A cabinet built as a box is releatively stable and square...one built three sided requires its attachment to the wall to provide that.




.....best way to realign and reattach ? Rubber mallet the cabinet base to shift it over?

My initial thought, not being there for the touch and feel...is you should be able to use the mallet on the back side and tap it back to the original line. I would move the wire bundle aside and tap near the base of the 3/4 x 3/4" frame section. Unless it is attached to the floor, and think it's not, it should move over.

.....Should longer screws be used__the length of these screws should be fine. Adding a third, all equally spaced should be ok if you are able to screw into a stud. I would use new holes as an extra screw hole in this area isn't a visual thing. If having an additional screw was going to create a visual issue...than filling the existing hole with a tooth pick or other patch material would be advised.

There is the posibility that a stud might not be behind the interior cabinet frame. You should be able to determine that when you drill your first hole. It can also be determine by tapping a finishing nail into the wall, at a 45 degree angle formed by the 'V' between the frame and wall. If there isn't a stud there...use four screws.

.....once I get the holes realigned to avoid this in the future?

Again assuming that the base of the cabinet is not fastened to the floor. Adding a 90 degree bracket between the cabinet's inside frame and the floor will keep the cabinet's front wall from shifting as the bottom of the cabinet will be secure and the upper section should be attached to the counter or other cabinet frame. Attaching to the wall only adds extra security for the cabinet.

If that doesn't help....send mor pictures...

As a thought, have you checked your Lag screws lately?

workhorse

[Lindaxtwo]

Thanks "Still" and "Workshop" for the info! In regards to your other questions "Workshop", I'll check the rig when I get up to the campground this weekend. Will get back to you...