no ac in la

[padutchmnm]

yea chief i'd guess it might have iced up. drains just don't unblock themselves. running all nite with hardly any drips kinda rules out the drain, even with high humidity. if you climb up the rear ladder you should see water running out from under the unit as its cooling. in my case the roof was always bone dry, everything ran inside. niagra falls out of the chill grill. test ran the new one 4-5 hrs in 100 deg heat....nice stream coming out of drain tube.....48 deg air out of ceiling registers.....life is good again......now if i can get grease into one of the dexter spring eye bolts thats being stubborn i'd really be happy........mjf.

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by padutchmnm

now if i can get grease into one of the dexter spring eye bolts thats being stubborn i'd really be happy........mjf.

Mitch,

I've found that if you use a bottle jack on the frame and take the weight off the spring shackle, it'll take the grease. Load the pressure of the grease on the grease zerk with your grease gun, then start jacking the rig up, you'll find it will finally take the grease. Friends told me that if I use a air grease gun (4,000 psi) then it would have enough pressure for the joint will take grease! Wrong...

I've also found that if you sometime wait until your next stop.....some zerks will take the grease easily. I can't explain it.......but it has worked for me. Later, rockin'

[padutchmnm]

thanks rock'in......since we won't be going anywhere for awhile, i'll try the bottle jack approach. i'll let you know how i make out.

[chief02]

Ran the AC last night in a rain shower. I did have water running out from under the AC on the roof. I pulled the chill grill and had no drips. When I shut of the AC off the white tray under the the coil filled up fast and started to run over. (fast ice melt?) I turned the fan on high and this slowed and stoped it from running over. I think the drain just coulnt keep up. What say you guys?

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by Workshop

Not sure which Coleman AC unit you have. On my prior Excel, the Beast, I had a Mach unit. Here are several photos of the drain system for my unit....

Would assume all AC units have a drain for the coil. My was located below and the coil set in/above the pan. The pan has a drain on each side that allowed any moisture collected to drain out.

Mine was located and could be seen just below the cover. Don't know about yours, but mine discharged to the side and the 'tightness' of the gasket would not affect it's function.






With the cover removed....The large opening is the return air port. The metal pan is the 'floor' of the return air chamber and is sealed and will retain any moisture/water that it collects. It has a lip/height of about 1 inch. The white tray is the drip tray/pan for the coil.






The coil tray exits the metal pan through a hole just below the coil tray. A rubber type material on the bottom of the coil tray helps seal the opening that does not allow anything to drain out or prevent outside air from being pulled into the sealed return chamber.






Another view of the coil drain...As stated my drain holes are located sideways and can't be effected by the tightness of the gasket. They might have changed the design on newer models and positioned them at the bottom of the pan ( straight down ) but that would seem like a step backwards.





If possible or able...take a look under your cover and see if you can see the drain holes? They might be different than mine or might not be visible. Being here in Florida it wouldn't take long for one of our insects to find a home there.

I just removed the AC unit the prior owner had installed in the bedroom on my 29 ft Alpenlite. It took two of us to break the seal of the AC unit from the roof. After ten years, the orginal gasket was still soft.

If you think or determine that the gasket is compressing the drain....I would loosen the four bolts that secures the unit to the roof and then tighten them down to specs. After one year, can't imagion it would be compressed enough not to try that.

Don't understand the tech's comments about the gasket being compressed and blocking the drain tubes....unless your pan drains discharges down rather than sideways like mine. The gasket is solid and doesn't have anything pass between the roof and the bottom on the AC unit.


workhorse

This is what I posted earlier to padutchmnm question about his system dripping water. I believe that he stated that his drain tube drained down rather then to the side like the picture I posted.

From what I read, the dripping stopped after the fan was turned on....the fan/air flow is pulling the water/moisture to the rear and not over the 'edge'. One of the photos shows how close the coils are to the leading edge of the drip pan. It wouldn't take much for an overflow to occure if there is a lot of drainage.

When I had the Beast, if I remember correctly, with the filter panel removed on the chill grille...I was able to see a part of the coil. You might try looking to see if the coil is 'iced' when the problem occures. This way you can eliminate that as a cause.

Think you need to make a trip to the roof and either remove the cover and metal enclosure to inspect the coil, pan and ensure the pan drain is clear and large enough to handle the flow. When I had the coleman, the coil sits in the pan and might want to ensure it's in the right spot.

M present AC is a Dometic 15k and recently removed the cover for an inspection and cleaning of coils and what evers. It has a much different pan system and outlet large enough to drive a truck through...large anyway. Only problem with it so far is moisture at the duct outlets when running on low fan. Will cool the unit down quickly but at HI fan setting, we have to keep adjusting the TV volume. Checked when this happened and the coil was clear, just to much cold air at the outlet.

[chief02]

Yea headed to the roof today if the storms stay away. Has anyone ever drilled and extra drain hole?

[RET FF]

Mitch
I had a shackle bolt that would not take grease, put a box end wrench on the head of the bolt and twisted back and forth about a quarter turn. It then took the grease. I read somewhere, that the grease slots in the bolt can get lined up in a "blank" spot in the shackle. Seems easier than dragging out a bottle jack and assorted timbers. (Sorry Rockin, but I'm lazy.)

[Workshop]

Originally Posted by RET FF

Mitch
I had a shackle bolt that would not take grease, put a box end wrench on the head of the bolt and twisted back and forth about a quarter turn. It then took the grease. I read somewhere, that the grease slots in the bolt can get lined up in a "blank" spot in the shackle. Seems easier than dragging out a bottle jack and assorted timbers. (Sorry Rockin, but I'm lazy.)

This is a CAUTION that is part of the Dexter suspension inspection.




The bolts are designed to be stationary on the hanger and shackle link and the springs/links are the moving part. Each bolt has a series of splines around the bolt, near the bolt head that anchors the bolt in place. Hopefully the grease exit holes are positioned in the 3 and 9 oclock positions when installed.

When I last upgraded the suspension with a new kit from Dexter, I tested each bolt for grease and found several that had to be redrilled to accept grease. After installation, there is always several that are harder than others. But given a choice I would jack it to get grease in.

[rockintom]

Work......you beat me to the punch on this one. That's what I get for going out to eat and being with some of our Excel friends!!!! rockin'

[padutchmnm]

yes, i know the bolts are splined under the heads. good thought though. maybe this thread might be a blessing in disguise for RET FF. he might have a worn link and is not aware of it. this link gave me trouble from new. the grease fitting was cross-threaded and grease just came out the threads. when i did the shocks and new equalizers i re-tapped it and replaced the fitting. all seemed fine but i didn't note the orientation of the grease hole. just my luck it's at 12-1 o-clock, right where the dead weight of the coach rests like a cap. taking weight off with the jack is one way to fudge it, but since i have the time i think i'll just pull it and redrill. if only i woulda looked the first time...........mjf oh yea... chief, i remember someone along the way posting about drilling a hole in the side of those drain nipples. just can't remember who.

[rockintom]

I just have one comment........wonder why Dexter doesn't make a marking on the head of the wet bolt to easily determine the orientation of the grease holes? I know when I had one out....I sure would. rockin'

[chief02]

Update on my AC dripping... The drain from the drip pan was mostly clear but was resting almost on the roof.I slightly elevated it with a rubber gromet as a spacer. Poured some water in and it drains fine. BTW my drain pan is very small and wont hold more the a pint maybe. I think I was freezing and thawing faster then it could contain. Seems ok for now.

[padutchmnm]

zing......rock'in 1.......padutchy 0

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by padutchmnm

zing......rock'in 1.......padutchy 0

Cheer up, I'm sure it won't be long before you'll catch up!!! rockin'