Rear kitchen model

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Slowmo

I was wondering about the weight of the rear kitchen. Is it more than a rear living room? Do they locate the axel in the same place?

I see no reason for any difference in weight from non rear kitchen models. The axle location is based off length more so than weight. rockin'

[ExcelRVGuy]

As far as axle placement, every model is different. We base our axle location on pin weight. Our goal is to always have between 19% and 21% of the total weight of the coach on the pin. (With the exception of toyhaulers).

Our rule of thumb is that we gain or lose 30# of pin weight for each 1" we move the axle forward or backward. So we build the prototype based off experience (and sometimes an educated guess) and weigh the coach. Then for example, if the coach weighs 13,000# and our pin weight is 2,300# we will move the axles back 10" to increase the pin weight by 300# to give us our optimum 20%.

We try not to exceed #3,000 pin weight on any coach.

On our toyhaulers.... We try to hold the pin weight between 2,800# and 3,000#. Many people pull them with 1-ton duallys.

Now to answer the next question in advance.... adding weight in the garage of the Wild Cargo carries about a 3:1 differential.... i.e. if you put 1,000# in the garage you will reduce the pin weight by about 300#

Hope this clears up some questions.

Bryan

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by ExcelRVGuy

As far as axle placement, every model is different. We base our axle location on pin weight. Our goal is to always have between 19% and 21% of the total weight of the coach on the pin. (With the exception of toyhaulers).

Our rule of thumb is that we gain or lose 30# of pin weight for each 1" we move the axle forward or backward. So we build the prototype based off experience (and sometimes an educated guess) and weigh the coach. Then for example, if the coach weighs 13,000# and our pin weight is 2,300# we will move the axles back 10" to increase the pin weight by 300# to give us our optimum 20%.

We try not to exceed #3,000 pin weight on any coach.

On our toyhaulers.... We try to hold the pin weight between 2,800# and 3,000#. Many people pull them with 1-ton duallys.

Now to answer the next question in advance.... adding weight in the garage of the Wild Cargo carries about a 3:1 differential.... i.e. if you put 1,000# in the garage you will reduce the pin weight by about 300#

Hope this clears up some questions.

Bryan

Thanks Bryan for the detailed info....there was a lot more things to consider than my rather weak answer. Learn something new everyday! Again thanks for being a part of our forum as you make a big difference here and keep us honest!!! rockin'

[Still Working "NOT"]

I agree with Bryan on how weight shifts. I have noticed that when I put four six volt batteries in the generator compartment last year the my pin weight went up by the way the Volvo squatted when I first hooked up. Now with the Wild Cargo pregnant I should see pin weight lighten up by 600 lbs. I did notice the air ride pin box was working more like the way I like to see it work when I went for a test drive last week.

[cwo4mstumpf]

Originally Posted by rfhtlh

we previouly owned a 2004 fle which had the rear kitchen and door. no problems with the kitchen in the rear with dishes or cabinets. i was glad to see they swapped the doors (flr) as the 04 had the sewer line coming out under the entry steps. it was nice just bringing the groceries right into the kitchen. we had a second awning added on the rear door side and glad we did because we used that door most of the time. we owned the unit 4 years with the major problem being the slide motors. we had the L shaped sofa and removed the extension to make it a straight sofa. that allowed us to walk through the unit when slides were in.

Just a quick question as I have a 2007 35 flr and have considered removing the L in the sofa for the reason you mentioned and the fact that you don"t have to move the chairs. Did you just take out the corner part and then use the end in it's place? If so how difficult and what mods did you have to make if any. And yes to all that have questioned the rear kitchen and things bounceing around. It's really good for a rear kitchen.

[rfhtlh]

i am doing this from memory. we removed the hideabed at the same time because we wanted more storage. yes, i just removed the corner section and moved the end section in its place. fastened down the end section and as i remember had to do some frame work to support the chusions because of hideabed removal. it seems to me when we joined the end with the existing section there was a small gap between the back chusions. we made a small insert from the corner section material to fill in. only noticed because we knew it was there.

[cwo4mstumpf]

Originally Posted by bigmichael

We recently looked at a rear kitchen model Excel LTD with the two doors. Liked it a lot but am curious to hear from others who own or have owned these. We looked at the 36 length. Heard issues with SOB's in particular regarding weight in the rear, roughness on the dishware etc when traveling.

I sent a PM to Rockin Tom--but didn't hear back. Maybe he doesn't do PM's--or at least with someone he doesn't know. I thought I remembered he owned one previously.

thanks for your thoughts

currently have a 2007 35 flr and have had NO problems with the rear kit and things bouncing around any more than normal. Most important is that the beer isn't shaken us so when you stop its drinkable. safe travels