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07-26-2013, 01:44 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Federal Way, Wa.
Posts: 2,901
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Changing the seal in my Sea Land toilet was an easy deal.
Getting to the bowels of the toilet will not drain your resources nor bind you up for a long time nor stop up your enthusiasm but leave you flush with excitement when the job is done, which requires paper (instruction) as we all know. They come with the seal.
Basically, reach around in back and unfasten the clasp then lift and separate; if you have been to a drive in movie you can change the seal in your toilet in record time.
__________________
I do all my own stunts
03 Dolphin LX 6355, Workhorse W22, 8.1 vortec, 04 CR-V, Blue Ox, Brake Pro----Norm, Barb and
Doc(He's a PhD)
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07-28-2013, 01:17 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockintom
No matter how long it takes you to do it.....bet Tator could do it in half the time!!!! rockin'
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Tater has her own pink leather tool belt and Black & Decker tool set. Whenever I'm working on something, she jumps right in! She always does a better job than me and she doesn't even read the directions...wait, she CAN'T read yet!
__________________
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 CC DRW 4x4 Duramax
2012 Excel Wild Cargo 41GKE
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08-03-2013, 05:55 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fulltime TX Escapee
Posts: 8,901
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By the time you get around to fixin' that thing......she'll be old enough to fix it her own darn self!!! rockin'
__________________
2012 Excel L33ft. GKE named Charm as in 3 times is a Charm. Love Fulltiming. Bullet '14 Chevy D/A 3500 LB CC DRW Summit White - Ebony Interior. Check out our blog at: https://claphamstravels.blogspot.com
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08-04-2013, 04:28 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 296
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I just changed the seal on my toilet after three years (2010 30RSO Limited). Took about 3 to 4 hours and here's what I learned:
This is a nasty job. You need to cover the work area (whatever floor space next to your toilet you can clear) with plastic. Be sure any floor vents are covered, have plenty of paper towels, bathroom cleaner, multiple pairs of gloves etc. Get a garbage bag ready for discarded parts. Once you begin this project, you're not going to want to leave the work area to minimize the cleanup.
Don't just replace the seal; get the kit with the ball valve also. Maybe the cable for the water valve also, depending on how lucky you feel.
Not sure what part you need? Go to Thetford's web site and find the model of toilet you have. Pull up their parts list and get the kit number for the seal. Search Amazon for the kit and order it. I have the Style Plus.
Th e directions were pretty good. Keep in mind that you're going to want to clean everything as you go with the possible exception of the waste tube between the bowl seal and the black tank seal, which is just gross. The kit comes with a new cup seal that the instructions say to "position towards the back of the toilet". That means the narrow side of the seal needs to be towards the back of the toilet. When reassembling, you'll want to "center the bowl" on the lower part of the toilet. What you should do is look inside the bowl and center your new valve and seal in the hole in the ceramic bowl.
The old seal wasn't warn out, it was just gunked up minerals and whatever that biofilm is that forms on the inside of drains. It was worth buying new parts to not have to clean this stuff off the old parts.
The water valve cable (from the front foot lever) already had a broken strand but I didn't have a replacement cable so I hope it lasts another three years when I get to do this again. Maybe.
Decontaminate the work area, including your tools and whatever you touched. Take a shower. Happy hour is whenever you finish. You deserve it.
- John
__________________
JanieD (and her DH JohnnyD)
2010 30RSO Limited , 2014 Ram 3500 Lone Star DRW
Flamingo On A Stick
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08-04-2013, 08:30 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fulltime TX Escapee
Posts: 8,901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janieD
I just changed the seal on my toilet after three years (2010 30RSO Limited). Took about 3 to 4 hours and here's what I learned:
This is a nasty job. You need to cover the work area (whatever floor space next to your toilet you can clear) with plastic. Be sure any floor vents are covered, have plenty of paper towels, bathroom cleaner, multiple pairs of gloves etc. Get a garbage bag ready for discarded parts. Once you begin this project, you're not going to want to leave the work area to minimize the cleanup.
Don't just replace the seal; get the kit with the ball valve also. Maybe the cable for the water valve also, depending on how lucky you feel.
Not sure what part you need? Go to Thetford's web site and find the model of toilet you have. Pull up their parts list and get the kit number for the seal. Search Amazon for the kit and order it. I have the Style Plus.
Th e directions were pretty good. Keep in mind that you're going to want to clean everything as you go with the possible exception of the waste tube between the bowl seal and the black tank seal, which is just gross. The kit comes with a new cup seal that the instructions say to "position towards the back of the toilet". That means the narrow side of the seal needs to be towards the back of the toilet. When reassembling, you'll want to "center the bowl" on the lower part of the toilet. What you should do is look inside the bowl and center your new valve and seal in the hole in the ceramic bowl.
The old seal wasn't warn out, it was just gunked up minerals and whatever that biofilm is that forms on the inside of drains. It was worth buying new parts to not have to clean this stuff off the old parts.
The water valve cable (from the front foot lever) already had a broken strand but I didn't have a replacement cable so I hope it lasts another three years when I get to do this again. Maybe.
Decontaminate the work area, including your tools and whatever you touched. Take a shower. Happy hour is whenever you finish. You deserve it.
- John
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Wow John..... Sorry this was a chore for ya. I've done about 7 reseals on the Style Plus toilet for myself and friends units. I published a step by step document. I'm confused by all the hub-bub on yours. The first one takes about 1 1/4 hrs.....the rest take about 45 minutes and that's doing a deep clean on the throat and all. I take the toilet out and give it's good cleaning on the grass of the site and then put the toilet on the tailgate of the truck to work on it. Simple.
BTW....Tim has not mentioned it here......but behind the curtain he told me he found out he has a Dometic 310 toilet!!!!
He has got the parts to fix it......but working 10-12 hrs. days. If we were closer.......I'd run over there and whip it out for him. rockin'
__________________
2012 Excel L33ft. GKE named Charm as in 3 times is a Charm. Love Fulltiming. Bullet '14 Chevy D/A 3500 LB CC DRW Summit White - Ebony Interior. Check out our blog at: https://claphamstravels.blogspot.com
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08-04-2013, 10:08 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockintom
Wow John..... Sorry this was a chore for ya. I've done about 7 reseals on the Style Plus toilet for myself and friends units. I published a step by step document. I'm confused by all the hub-bub on yours. The first one takes about 1 1/4 hrs.....the rest take about 45 minutes and that's doing a deep clean on the throat and all. I take the toilet out and give it's good cleaning on the grass of the site and then put the toilet on the tailgate of the truck to work on it. Simple.
BTW....Tim has not mentioned it here......but behind the curtain he told me he found out he has a Dometic 310 toilet!!!!
He has got the parts to fix it......but working 10-12 hrs. days. If we were closer.......I'd run over there and whip it out for him. rockin'
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Just picked up the parts yesterday....took about a week for them to get shipped. I'm headed out to sea all this week so as soon I return I will be getting busy with the crapper. It appears the Dometic might be a little easier since I don't have to completely remove it from the floor. The bowl is held on the base by a metal band. Guess we'll see if its any easier. Think I will go with Rockin's recommendation and take the bowl outside to clean and put back together. Maybe I can get Tater to take pics of the job 👍.
__________________
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 CC DRW 4x4 Duramax
2012 Excel Wild Cargo 41GKE
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08-04-2013, 10:11 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Whitney, Texas, USA
Posts: 2,284
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Tim, is yours a Dometic 310 or 320?
__________________
Russell
'13 Excel Winslow 34IKE
'16 GMC Sierra 3500HD
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08-04-2013, 10:17 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfife
Tim, is yours a Dometic 310 or 320?
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It's a 500h series if I remember correctly.
__________________
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 CC DRW 4x4 Duramax
2012 Excel Wild Cargo 41GKE
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08-04-2013, 10:56 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fulltime TX Escapee
Posts: 8,901
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Tim, actually you don't have to remove the bottom part of the Thetford Style Plus either to just replace the ball seal. In most applications you do have to remove the whole john to do a ball valve or water valve. I take it out the thing out for all repairs as I like to clean it up and not work on the bathroom floor. It only takes a few minutes to R&R the darn thing. rockin'
__________________
2012 Excel L33ft. GKE named Charm as in 3 times is a Charm. Love Fulltiming. Bullet '14 Chevy D/A 3500 LB CC DRW Summit White - Ebony Interior. Check out our blog at: https://claphamstravels.blogspot.com
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09-05-2013, 09:23 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 342
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Took a while to carve out some time to replace the seal and pedal spring but got it done last weekend. Took about about an hour, but after I tightened the the bowl back down on the base I realized I forgot to hook up a hose behind the toilet. So after removing the toilet and hooking the hose up, I was at about one hour and fifteen minutes.
I noticed after all that work I was having the same problem as before - the ball not wanting to fully retract. I tried a little Thetford seal conditioner and still didn't work. I called Dometic-Sealand directly and they suggested I loosen a quarter turn two screws that hold the water valve and spring inside the foot pedal....and I'll be damned that fixed my issue!
Oh and btw, Sealand doesn't recommend any type of seal conditioner. They actually said not to use it.
__________________
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 CC DRW 4x4 Duramax
2012 Excel Wild Cargo 41GKE
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09-05-2013, 09:51 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fulltime TX Escapee
Posts: 8,901
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Glad it all worked out for ya. Boy that set up looks completely different from our Thetford toilet. Did you take pix of your replacement of the seal? I hafta wonder if that was your problem originally. rockin'
__________________
2012 Excel L33ft. GKE named Charm as in 3 times is a Charm. Love Fulltiming. Bullet '14 Chevy D/A 3500 LB CC DRW Summit White - Ebony Interior. Check out our blog at: https://claphamstravels.blogspot.com
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09-05-2013, 09:56 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 342
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No I didn't. I sent the girls away for a couple hours because I had no idea if I was gonna be elbow deep in poo or not so I had no photographers available. I was decked out in a hazmat suit with face shield so me trying to fumble around with a camera wasn't a good idea . I will say the instructions were right on and everything was super easy, except for cleaning ball...that was just plain nasty.
__________________
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 CC DRW 4x4 Duramax
2012 Excel Wild Cargo 41GKE
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