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Old 06-02-2008, 05:17 AM   #15
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13.__Subject: Lag screw repair, roadside.

This is the second of two posts on the replacement of the lag screws on my unit. This post covers the repair of the roadside lag.

Hope something helps.

Chris







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Old 06-09-2008, 04:08 AM   #16
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14.__Subject: You can't have too many catches

The subject of Post 9 was: Fiberglass and Gel coat repair, how much should I do..... Well that decision has been made and for now I've done enough.

I had two areas of concern. One was the catches that hold the compartment doors open and the other was damage to the gel coat caused by the prior slide out cover mounting hardware.

When the original catches were removed and the decision was made to use the existing Bullet catches, I was faced with the two holes for each catch removed and an area that was stained and a different gel coat color/gloss than what surrounded it.

I had faced this problem when I rebuilt the compartment doors earlier. In that case I lightly sanded the area to remove the stains and the gloss of the original gel coat followed by compounding and waxing the doors. New white painted screws were inserted in caulk to make the repair. This choice was made because the first door I tried to repair with the Marine-Tex Putty didn't show the results I was after. Found the catch screws holes were too close to the frame to work comfortably, the gel coat thin and the prior damage to the sub areas of the door screamed.....Put a screw in me.

The second area of concern was damage to the sidewall and to some extent the slide trim caused by the slide out cover's mounting hardware and trim. On the Entertainment slide only, it hadn't been adjusted or modified to prevent damage to the surrounding surfaces. One would ask....What were they thinking.

In both repairs Marine-Tex Putty, in white, was used. The product cures very hard, was easy to work and gave a very acceptable repair and finish. A medium/heavy abrasive compound was used to buff the repair and surrounding area followed by a very find compound to bring back the shine and smoothness. The area then received two coats of wax to protect the cleaned gel coat. Now if I could only get everything wax at the same time.

Fiberglass projects remaining? I have two that will need attention at some point in the future; just not the near future and not sure I would attempt either. One is the lower left corner of the bedroom slide and an area at the right hand upper corner of the sofa/dinette slide opening. Both areas have small spider cracks. It is my understanding the cracks at the bedroom corner is related to flexing. The problem at the main slide opening was related to moisture. The interior paneling between the door and the slide opening had been changed which indicated the prior owner had taken action there before. This will be a future project once a paneling can be obtained that is a match or at least close. Not easy to do on a 7yr old unit. Both areas are secure and not presenting a problem at present. Both have a small white Eternabond patch protecting the area.

Hope something helped.










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Old 06-10-2008, 02:35 PM   #17
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15.__Subject: Waste System Overview: 33RLE

If you can't tell, I'm big on Overviews. It has a way of connecting things together and giving a better understanding of how different things work with other components in the system. Would suspect the systems on my unit are similar to what is currently being used if not close.

Some of the photos and information I have posted before, some not. Did not rebuild or modify anything for this post___a rather nice change.

Hope you find something useful.











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Old 06-10-2008, 02:40 PM   #18
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Subject: Restoration 101 Index

Who would have thought I would need an index. When back last week looking for something and had no idea where to find it. The information on my computer was organized by subject but not in order of the post.

Well went back and numbered the Post, filed the post on the computer to match and will Post an index occasionally to make it easier to know where something is located. Hope it helps others as it does me. One thing for certain, subject matter is all over the place. Need to stay focused.

Page 1:

1.__Restoration 101
2.__Rebuilding the compartment doors
3.__Rebuilding the compartment doors, page 4
4.__Rebuilding the compartment doors, part 2
5.__Page 20, Caulking and sealing materials
6.__Testing for 12v Power
7.__Door prop/holder for the Electrical compartment
8.__Prep of screw hardware
9.__Fiberglass and Gel coat repair, how much should I do.....
10.__Heating System Overview of a 2001

Page 2:

11.__Floor brace support repair
12.__Replacing lag screws: curbside
13.__Replacing lag screws: roadside
14.__You can't have too many catches
15.__Waste System Overview, 33RLE

Hope something helped,

Chris
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Old 06-10-2008, 02:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Hope something helped
Chris,
What an understatement! I doubt if anyone of our forum members has not benefited from some part of the well-documented information you have posted. You're okay, for being a 'Navy' type!
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Old 06-10-2008, 06:49 PM   #20
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I second what Chief says. This Workshop guy does a great job and trust me the stuff he does takes a lot of time to do. Thanks Chris, we really appreciate your hard work. I learn alot everytime I look at this thread! Keep up the great work! Serious for a change. Tom
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:13 AM   #21
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16.__Subject: Basement moisture monitors

As the name might suggest, this post has to do with installing moisture monitors in the basement area of my unit. I have been one of those who haven't had a problem to date with water leaks in the basement area. After a look in the area after it was discussed on the Forum, I decided to modify the wall that separates the storage area and the utility area that houses the furnace, water tank and everything else that makes the unit self contained.

One was to modify the door access to the heater, curbside, by removing screws and installing a cabinet magnet catch. This allows the door to be functional and easier access to that area. On the roadside wall I removed one of the smaller panels and installed a Plexiglas window that will allow viewing of the area with the Landscaping equipment hanging and one Tote removed. Also installed a light as it is somewhat dark in there. Like the option of viewing the areas without having a lot of time involved or having to move a lot. Understand current models have a sliding door that separates the areas. Progress is good.

Installed WATCHDOG WATER ALARMS to both sides on the units. OTHER ALARMS were available but the Watchdogs were available from my local Lowes store. As you will be able to tell from the photos, my systems are split and felt one monitor would not give the protection I wanted. As space and wall area was limited, mounted the monitors, using Velcro, to the water tank. This gives good area coverage and will monitor their location/performance as time passes.

As usual tried to explain what I see in the area. Sure some things are the same and some different. Just hope something helps.

Next series of Posts will be the sofa/dinette slide repair. Dealing with several issues on the same slide, I will post on each issue to make it manageable and making the first of those posts an overview of the slide.

Hope something helped.

Chris





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Old 07-03-2008, 04:14 AM   #22
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17.__Problems with the sofa/dinette slide

Wanted to start this post off by saying we have had our Excel for a year the 29th of June? It has been a fast year! One would think by my post on the Beast that it can not be pulled out of the driveway without something falling off. All you hear about are compartment doors, lag screws, repair to the floor and wall. You know all the good stuff. Do not forget the pictures that show the rusted screw and those areas that should have been washed before the picture was taken. I guess doing a series of post like this does not show my unit in a good light when you think of it. But for the sake of science someone would have to do it.

Actually for a unit that will be 8 years old this model year, it is a nice unit. Its quality built, the interior is like new, has a lot of upgrades and amenities that makes life nice and because of those__ I chose a older unit than what I was looking for originally, 3-4 yrs was ideal. Would not say who wears the pants in my house___but she would not let me buy new.

__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________


With that said. One might call this an overview or summary of issues I had with the sofa/dinette slide on my unit. I initially posted a Topic: How is the floor attached? on the 2nd of June. With information I received from Forum member 75v that answered my question, work started on the repair of the slide.

As you will see from this and the following series of post, there where several issues as I like to call them, that I worked on at the same time. One flowed into the other as if they belonged together but in the end they could have been separate issues into themselves. It just worked out they were all in one place waiting for me to do something with them.

When I mentioned the issues were unrelated to each other__in a way that is true. In a way they were. The thing that ties the wall/floor separation, the rear skirt, the forward skirt and the timing of the inner rail, or ram, together is moisture. All at some point were damaged or affected because the caulk protecting those areas failed allowing the wood to remain damp and eventually causing the problems they did. I mention the moisture problems only to stress the importance of keeping your unit caulked and sealed the best you can. The major problems with my unit were and are moisture related. Take moisture away and I would be spending time waxing the roof and commenting about that instead.

Regardless if your unit is a year old or a 2001 like mine, look at your unit's caulk and trim and make whatever adjustments or repairs that are needed to keep your unit dry. Work up a checklist of areas to inspect and do it often. Regardless of the Brand or the Model we choose, if you have an RV you have the potential of having moisture issues and possibly will.

The next post will be the Repair to the curbside slide's side wall. Others will follow that include how I modified the slide lawn chair storage compartment, A question of Elevation: Not always as it seems that discusses the problem I thought I had with the alignment on the right side of the slide. There is Skirt repairs, a Nose Cone replacement and information on the EZ-Slide hardware from Barker Mfg.

Who would have guessed so much could come from one place.

Chris








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Old 07-12-2008, 02:32 PM   #23
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18.__Repair to curbside slide's side wall

This will start off the post on the repair of the sofa/dinette slide. I decided to group them together by like subject rather than the order in which they were completed. Meaning the slide repair, the skirts, the slide hardware etc.

The repair was pretty straight forward, as with any repair it has to be planned out in steps. The best but worst thing about this series of repairs was they were all on the same slide. The only thing that was uncertain was how one repair would affect the other. What did not change was the left top corner is still leaning, maybe ½ inch. After a lot of head scratching, it goes back to my initial thought, caused by the selling dealer's repair. The slide seals and I am probably the only one who would notice it so just one of those things we learn to live with.

Lucky if you want to call it that was the fact the damage was prior damage and was not wet inside when the wall was opened up. Being the third owner of the unit one never knows what to expect when buying used. From the caulk job on the unit, the prior owner sealed the unit fairly well. Found I had moisture issues after I bought the unit but it could have been worst. Sealed those and working on removing and caulking everything by the time I am through. Will wait until future post # 24 to talk about the trim and caulk for this project. There I added new trim and changed out the old vinyl insert which is also being done when the caulk is being replaced. Seemed like a good time to do it as so much trim was already removed.

I know I said it in the last Post but check your caulk and sealant and check it often.

Post #19 will discuss the Florida termite and the effect they have on our units?

Hope something helped,

Chris
















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Old 07-14-2008, 02:48 AM   #24
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19.__Storage compartment: Slide storage modification

Well, there were no termites. Just needed a little drama. That is not to say we do not have termites here is Florida. Luckily they do not have chainsaws but the damage is just as costly.

This project was the result of wanting paneling. It just happened this was a good place to get it as another project was going on. Tried to find the Whisper sage pattern since purchasing the unit. No such luck.

We use beach chairs a lot, keep the regular folding chairs in the bathroom closet. Figure I have two good years left and after that might have to start using chairs where I am not sitting on the ground. One thing this project did was make the compartment slightly deeper which made it easier to put both chairs on one side. The other side is where I store a 4 foot folding table, which I sometimes use next to the sites picnic table for the grille if needed, plus two small folding side tables. The new area in the back easily handles the beach umbrellas, broom, brush and other small items we all carry. But now I do not have to unload those things to get the chairs out.

The way the sofa is designed; it allowed a project like this. Just needed to do a few measurements and design the extension so the sofa would slide back and over the new frame. Because the original wall was made with double sided paneling and ¾ inch framing, very little weight was added in the modification.

Hope something helped,

Chris








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Old 07-18-2008, 01:00 PM   #25
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20.__A question of Elevation: Not always what it seems.

This is a Post about a repair that is not a repair but a repositioning. One of the many issues that I had with the slide was its alignment. With this situation, I assumed it was also alignment related.

At the start of this series of projects I had to visually look at the slide, determine what needed to be repaired and the order is which they would be completed. I had hoped that the completion of one project or issue would also correct another? In the case of the wall/floor separation, completing that repair did not correct the wall leaning problem that started all this off. Had to then assume, would correcting the alignment of the right side of the slide have an affect on the left side leaning? After all if one side is higher than it should, would not it affect the opposite corner?

Part of the problem with visually troubleshooting a problem is the mixed signals we sometimes see. In this repair I noticed that the trim flange on the right side of the slide was high and not matching, or being level with, the trim that surrounded the slide opening. Plus the spacing between the two trim pieces was tight at the bottom and wide at the top of the slide. The confusion occurred when checking the spacing between the slide's flange and trim in other positions around the slide. On the left side it was equal; on the top right it closely matched the left. The one thing that made it difficult and should have been done earlier was to remove the slide's awning so a better visual inspection of the slide could be had.

After head scratching because the visual clues did not match, I removed the awning to check the space between the flange and trim. Well, it was equal also. One could only come to the conclusion that the slide was not vertically out of alignment as suspected, which was good news but something else was causing the visual problems I was having and of course, this too would not correct the wall leaning issue. As you might sense, I wanted it to go away. :-)))

In the process of looking, visual of course, for what might be causing the problem, I remembered the caulk, or the amount of it on the side wall of the slide where the flange and bottom trim met. Upon further inspection the caulk appeared to be 1/4 inch in depth at the bottom and narrowed as it got to the top of the trim. Questions were: was the side wall bowed or was it leaning and not square?

Using a 4 foot rigid straight edge and level, I was able to conclude the wall was not bowed. This was determined by placing the straight edge flat on the wall and checking for high and low areas. Next I determined that the trim was out of plumb with the side wall by placing the level on the wall and noticing the bubble and then checking the flange trim. That indicated the trim was out of plumb about the spacing of the caulk, 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

The sidewall's bottom trim and the right side flange were removed to inspect the corner and installation. The old caulk was removed from both surfaces and after another one of those visual inspections; the trim was held back into position. Needless to say it fit tight against the corner and the trim set flush with each other.

What was the moral of the story? Things are not always what they seem. Instead of an alignment problem, it was an installation error. Simpler but still a lot of worry and work.

Next post will be: Are your holes in the right place?

Hope something helped.






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Old 07-19-2008, 09:04 AM   #26
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Oh, OK. At first glance, I thought you were adding an elevator to the trailer.
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:35 PM   #27
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OMG...you just gave Workhorse a new idea! Debra, the banker, oughta really like the elevator project!!!

Seriously, Chris....alot of fabulous stuff you're doing here, my friend. I, for one, really appreciate your great and hard work! Thanks! Tom
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:12 PM   #28
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21.__Are your holes in the right place?

As you might have noticed I have been trying to keep some of the Topics shorter by making them subject related and not include the kitchen sink. This makes it easier to compose, write and for you....to read. Now I just need to control my long winded introduction of the Post.

Are your holes in the right place refers to the placement of existing holes when trim is removed and repositioned or changed as in the prior post. It was determined that the flange trim had been installed in the wrong position. When the trim was removed and repositioned, the top two holes on the face of the flange aligned, the next mostly, then slightly and by three quarters down new holes were needed. The holes on the side of the flange were 1/4 to 1/2 hole width out. This created a problem using the existing holes or drilling a new hole within the space of an existing one. Thus making the hole larger and weaken the effects of the screw or creating a situation where the screws are driven in at an angle or slightly so and not seating correctly.

To help correct this, dowel plugs was glued in the existing holes where a problem existed. A dowel slightly larger than the present screw hole, a drill bit that matched the dowel and yellow wood glue was used to make the repairs.

First I would drill the existing holes to a depth of about an inch plus. Using cut dowels that were +1 1/2 inches in length, I would load the dowel down with glue and insert it into the hole. When it felt it was at the end of its travel, I would seat it with a light tap of a hammer. It would then be broken off as close as possible to the hole opening and using a punch with a broad face tap the dowel flush. The excess glue and dowel is cleaned up and allowed to dry and harden.

When the screws are ready to be installed, a VIX BIT is used to drill the new hole. These are self centering bits which ensure a perfect hole every time. Silicone is applied to a paper towel and the screw's shaft if wiped through before installing. Mineral spirits is used to clean up the excess.

The drill, glue and dowel repair can be used on most any screw hole repair when the situation shows itself.

Post number 22 will be__Front Skirt: Repairing water damage.

Hope something helped.





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