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Old 10-25-2008, 05:45 PM   #43
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35.__Exterior Window: window glazing replacement

What started out as a project to correct a minor leak and replace the glazing, the rubber trim around the glass portion of the window, ended up as a cleanup, reseal and installation of the existing glazing. Other than having some discoloration in the mitered corner areas, it was in good shape. Being a little stiff was the only concern I had for the glazing but since it was pliable and fit tight to the glass I decided I would use it for now and possibly replace in the spring after all the windows have been inspected so they can be done together. With the onset of winter, as all you northern folk know, outside projects with more importance start receiving a higher priority and moved to the top of the list and getting done first.

Being a small window was a gift to work on. It allowed for a small work area and if I made a mistake, it would be easier to correct. Being the first time I had to work on a window, it was not as intimidating as I would have thought. I know CHIEF and PAUL had worked on their windows in July and have found various issues with theirs, so did not know what to expect but their description and information was very helpful.

The windows on my unit are made by Hehr International Inc. From Chief's comments about the window glazing between our units being different, would assume his windows are Hehr also but a different model/style. My windows had a Hehr sticker on the window, you might check to see who your manufacture is if different and Google them and try to gather more information. I would be lost sometimes without a search engine to hunt for information. Here is what I have found on Hehr and a supplier for the glazing. I am sure he would be able to obtain addition items if requested.

Hehr International Inc, HOME PAGE
Hehr Window and Doors, see RECREATION VEHICLES
Hehr Service Manual, the PDF FORMAT provides the most detail

Possible point of contact:

ParKin-Accessories
Doug Parsons
2920 Gateway Drive
Elkhart, IN 46514
1-800-637-8938
www.parkin-acc.com

Glazing rubber for stationary glass: Part #: G-White____$4.15 foot
Top Glazing rubber: Part #: 009-482___$4.19 foot

This is a bit of information from Hehr's service manual:

ANALYZING AND REPAIRING LEAKS

What is a leak? In general, a leak is:

(A) Water infiltration between the stationary glass and the window frame.
(B) Water running down the inside of a ventilating pane
(C) Any condition where water accumulates in the windowsill, overflows, and runs down the inside
wall.

The following are not automatically leaks:

(A) Presence of water in the windowsill. Ventilating windows will often admit some water; this is
particularly true when subject to direct high pressure flows. They are designed to manage the water that comes in during average storm events and normal vehicle washes. They cannot withstand submersion, nor extraordinary flow velocities and volumes. All ventilating sliding windows and many awning-type windows are provided with "weep slots" or "drain slots." These allow any water coming in, whether through bypassing the opening pane, or from condensation, to drain out, rather than be trapped inside the vehicle.

(B) Water running down the inside wall. If water appears between the window frame and the clamp ring, there is an installation leak, or the water is coming through the wall. Installation leaks occur when the window flange has not been properly bedded; when the frame bedding has become brittle or has been breached, such as by racking of the unit wall; improper hole cutouts, causing insufficient coverage by the mounting flange; and walls curved, preventing a continuous seal under the window flange; Water leaks through the wall may originate in several areas, often remote from the window. Examples are: improperly sealed clearance lights and seams in sidewall skins.

(C) Loose glazing vinyl; in most cases, the glazing vinyl is cosmetic only and does not seal. Look for gaps in the bedding under the glass. If present, they should be lightly caulked, allowed to set up, and the vinyl replaced.


Hope something helped.









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Old 11-06-2008, 04:41 AM   #44
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36.__Receiver Hitch: For the Excel

As the unit did not have a frame hitch installed and there was no 4 inch metal bumper to attach a bumper hitch as my prior unit had, I needed to either purchase one from PI or have a custom hitch made. With the intent to carry two bikes with a weight of about 100 lbs including the carrier, I chose to design and have one made.

The drawing is the design I came up with. Most retail receivers I saw had the receiver tube close to the frame and with their set design they would have had to be modified to mount. This set back required a long tube from the bike carrier to extend back to the frame as there is a distance of about 10 inch from the rear of the frame to the outside edge of the bumper. If you add the length of the tube from the carrier and it can sometimes get long and extended. I decided to have the receiver extend to the rear of the bumper to close some of that distance.

I also drilled, threaded and used a Tee bolt I had in my 20-year drawer to tighten and secure the carrier tube within the receiver. This provides a very tight fit that eliminates any movement and keeps the 100 lbs suspended out there from doing its own thing. Camping World sells a QUIET HITCH that can be used with an existing receiver. As I am a lock-it up kind of guy I have this LOCK on the Excel receiver. One less thing to worry about.

Next post will be the bike carrier that was also designed and built for my prior.

Hope something helped.



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Old 11-11-2008, 11:39 AM   #45
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37.__The Beast and it's Castle.

What can I say, it's life is good!

Been working on this for the last several months, need to add a few under the cover lights so I can work on it more.




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Old 11-12-2008, 03:40 AM   #46
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38.__Bike rack.

I had this bike carrier made for my prior unit about 14 years ago. It had to fit over and close to the spare tire that was mounted on the rear bumper. Pat, at Morrow Brothers Welding, and I came up with this design. The leaning of the carrier was initially designed to give a snug fit to the spare tire. It was not till later that the other benefit, to me anyway, of transferring the weight of the bikes to the vertical upright support and not as much on the support arms. This along with the straps and bungees eliminates almost all movement of the bikes.

The drawing is an overview of the carrier. A inch PVC tubing was used to cover the support arms. This gives more bulk and allows the pipe insulation used to cover the arms to have a better fit. I use this RUBBER insulation to keep metal to metal contact between the carrier and bike frames to a minimum. Several small pieces are used on the front and rear forks of the bikes to allow a little separation there as well.

I use this FLOOR RACK to support the bikes while at home and carry it with us in the truck's bed on trips. Provides a better way of parking the bikes than using the kick stands.

To provide better running and brake lights visibility, I am looking at upgrading the lights on the rear of the unit. Possibility a thin LED LIGHT BAR on each end of the bumper. The original running/brake light fixtures are 1157 bulb type. At a cost of about $120 or less to UPGRADE to LEDs, will have to see what the Excel allowance is at the time. :-))))

Hope something helped.





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Old 11-12-2008, 03:50 AM   #47
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A couple more fabulous posts. I really like your home for the beast! Now when you're in the "dog house" with Debra, you can live "in style". Smart thinking on your part. Hope you have an intercom systen back into the S&B so you can find out when the "coast is clear"!
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:00 AM   #48
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39.__Hung out to dry: A clothes line for the Excel

This post is about installing a clothes line on the rear bumper of my Excel. This is a clothes line that started out being installed on my first motor home in 1987 and my prior 5th wheel in the 90's and now recycled to the Excel. The design has not changed but did change the mount system to make it work with the bumper design on the unit.

Depending on where we are, the Beach towels and swim suits are hung on the Line or over an additional lawn chair to dry. As not all parks allow the use of exterior clothes lines and that is ok, that is where the additional lawn chair comes in. Don't or have not had a need for it that often, but available if needed.

FOLD AWAY CLOTHES LINE
RV PORTABLE CLOTHES LINE

Hope something helped.








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Old 11-18-2008, 09:25 AM   #49
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Don't know what happen with the changes made to the forum upgrades last nite....but it seems to have made changes to the all the posts that have been made with some of the symbols that were used. Can't 'say' I understand and would be alot of work to go back and change all the errors the upgrade made.

These are a few of the problems the upgrade caused to the prior posts: ".....parking' the bikes than using the kick stands'..... It wasn't till later.....

I went back and edited the Clothes Line post to correct errors. Don't know if this will be corrected in the future by another upgrade or to correct this, it will need to be manually corrected. Will have to see going forward.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:21 AM   #50
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40.__What is your humidity?

Not a lot of excitement here! But at least its not a clothes line right?

This is something of a repostsince its that time of season, similar to getting a gift at Christmas time and before its all over you give it to someone else.re-gifting. Sort of the same thing as this post was also posted in Best Practices. The difference is a newer Oregon Scientific
unit. Model RMR203HGA.

Appears it is new to me and old to Target. When I purchased it several months ago, I checked out Oregons web site to register the unit and to download any additional information on the unit. Come to find out it had been replace by a New and Improved version. Need to get used to the fact that things either never change or if you blink its gone.

The purpose for getting another unit was to monitor the humidity within the Excel when it wasnt being used. This unit provides not only the Atomic clock, indoor and outdoor temperatures but also an inside humidity reading, plus other features that I dont use. Being here in Florida with the temperatures and humidity levels we sometimes have during the summer, I wanted to know what the interiors percentage of humidity was. After having a minor mildew problem on a few of the cabinets I figured it was time to make some sort of correction.

After checking the readings for several months and operating a dehumidifier when needed, I have the problem under control and deal with it before it occurs. Interesting to note that the amount of moisture that the dehumidifier will remove from the interior is way different during the summer with 90 degree temps, than this time of year when its 65 outside with the same humidity readings. Buckets full in July and cups in December. Anything less than 60% in summer and 70% this time of year, I feel is a good number. Dont want to dry the unit out to much. 50% is a good number for me.

When attaching the magnet to the access cover to the battery on the exterior unit, I used 1/8 inch aluminum rivets. Find it can be placed just about anyplace it will stick. Once the sending unit has made contact with the Mother unit, it has remained in contact and only needs to adjust to the new outside temperature.

Hope something helped.

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:20 AM   #51
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41.__Kitchen counter repair.

This is a small post on the repair of the trim on the edge of the kitchen counter. As it was damaged when we purchased the unit, would guess it was the result of excessive weight being applied in the wrong area. This weight caused the surface to flex and luckily crack the trim section and not the flat surface of the stove cover.

Was an easy enough repair that took several hours to complete. Because of the temperatures and humidity at the time, I waited till the next day to sand and polish the repair. If the excess epoxy is removed initially after clamping, the sanding will go easier. The diamond pads made easy removal of the material and left a seamless repair. The epoxy filled any minor voids and blended in very well with the colors of the counter.

As part of the on going maintenance and upgrade to the unit___decided to remove and reseal the seams at the wall and counter. A light gray silicone designed for counter surfaces, purchased at Home Depot, was used. The sink was completed in a prior project yet to be posted.

Loctite 5 minute epoxy.

Hope something helped,





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Old 12-26-2008, 05:38 PM   #52
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42.__Soap Dispenser: Kitchen Sink

This post is about installing a sink mounted soap dispenser. With a corner installed sink in my unit, available counter space around the sink, in the corner, is always at a premium. I like having soap available at the kitchen sink, as this is where I generally wash-up after being outside. Plus one that doesnt have to be sit in a dish or stored someplace during travel is my type of dispenser.

Found this one at Home Depot. They had 4 to 5 models in the store and chose it in white to match the sink and the cost was under $20.00. Their web site has a larger selection and price range.

Installation was fairly easy and was completed in about two hours. Longer if you include the removal of the old sealant and the time required to check all the sink drain pipe connections for tightness and proper drain angle. Yes, they all needed a little tightening and there was no leakage.

Hope something helped.





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Old 01-03-2009, 08:08 AM   #53
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43.__Drain system: Sinks, shower and washer.

During my last post I installed a soap dispenser at the kitchen sink. During the installation I noticed the main drain line for the sink was slightly lower at the J trap than the point where it entered the wall. Normally it would be higher at the trap. So after I completed the installation, I decided to give the drain system a look over and see how it was put together and if anything was loose.

Found that by lifting up on the trap it would move about a 1/4 inch. The nut was tight and had little movement. I backed it off, positioned it to a correct height and tightened the nut. The nut on the trap that connects to the drain line was tight. As this is a slip fitting and relies on the compression of the wedge/bevel washer to seal, would suspect the weight of the trap and drain pipe, plus the movement of the components during travel caused the trap to slip down the tailpipe of the strainer. To help take some of the weight/pressure off the fitting connection, I used and connected three plastic wire ties that linked the piping together. I left the center one loose enough to have some movement but tight enough to keep the trap from sliding down again. Easy to install and remove if necessary.

__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________


Interested to know how the plumbing in the RV was different than my stick house, I decided to take a few things apart. Most noticeable is the use of Black PVC in the waste lines. In the stick, White PVC is standard these days. There were more similarities than differences in the waste system. They both use traps to control sewer gases, drain lines to connect the various fixtures and fittings and terminate at a collection area. In the case of an RV its a gray or black tank.

To allow the system to breath and flow better, they both are vented to the outside with thru the roof vents and where vents cant be installed, AAV devices are installed near the fixture in the waste line. On my unit I have three installed, one near each sink and the third near the tank between the shower and washer drain lines.

As with the stick, all the fittings and pipes are glued except at connection points at a fixture or at the J traps. Where a fitting is needed, a slip wedge or bevel washer is most commonly used. When the nut is tightened, the washer is pressed against a corresponding shape and a tight seal is formed.

Back to the inspection..I then checked the nut for the cross over connection on the drain pipe and the two strainers. Each strainer has two nuts that need to be checked. One is the lock nut that secures the strainer to the sink and the other fastens the crossover drain line to the strainer. All were snug and needed a little tightening. None caused concern or a water leak.

To seal the kitchen sink strainers, bath pop-up assembly and shower basin__Plumbers putty is applied to the underside of the flange before being installed. From beneath, a rubber washer followed by a metal/plastic/fiber washer is installed before the locknut is screwed into place and tightened to form a seal. The metal/plastic/fiber washer material will vary depending on mfg of the fixture, its purpose remains the same and thats to allow the nut to be tightened against the rubber washer to form a seal from below. The second washer allows the locknut to be tightened against the rubber washer without deforming it, causing a bad seal, and allowing full compression. On the kitchen sink, its flat, on a bath sink its normally a larger wedged shape washer to compensate for a different type opening through the sink.

To connect the drain to the kitchen sink strainer, a 1 1/2 inch flat rubber washer is used and forms its seal through compression. In other applications, a plastic slip washer that has an L shape and fits on the end and inside of the pipe is also used. In this case the larger rubber washer is a better choice. The waste/drain line in the bath room connects to a pop-up assembly. It gets it name from the stopper that pops up when the lift rod is positioned at the back of the faucet. It has a few more parts to assemble and is pretty straight forward. The hardest part is working in the small space to adjust the rod and pop-up for the height desired. Be sure to check that the nut that keeps the ball in position is tight, it can leak there.

If you guessed that Plumbers Putty below the fixture flange and a rubber gasket beneath the sink is what seals and prevents a water leak, youre right. Its the same for the shower also. It, like the sinks, has a nut that is tightened from below to secure the shower basin. On my unit, it appears to be glued to the drain line and the trap is located near the top of the tank. The hardest thing to check on the shower is the connection on the bottom of the shower pan. Even in my better days, I was never able to get into that type of space. Just need to visually check it occasionally to insure its dry.

Having a basic understanding of how the drain system works goes along way to troubleshooting it when something isnt flowing. About the only things that can go wrong is a leak, a slow drain or a stoppage. The leaks can be prevented by ensuring the nuts and connections are tight, a slow drain will usually be caused by a partial blockage in a line. This can be in the J trap, that can be removed and cleaned or within a line near a fitting or bend. I routinely pour hot water, from the coffee maker, down the kitchen and bath drains to help keep then cleaned. I let it set a few minutes and flush with tap water. A stoppage, which I havent experienced in the RV, can be either plunged or in the worst case, snaked by taking the trap out and entering at that point.

Thinking about the three drain points I have, the kitchen, bath vanity and shower, they all receive similar but different waste water. Food and grease__toothpaste and hair or hopefully just hair. I control what goes down the kitchen drain by using a wire strainer the majority of the time, controlling the discharge of the bath vanity sink and the shower is somewhat harder as neither of the basins will allow a screen drain to be used. Just have to control what I can and not worry about the rest. Hair will usually collect near the top of the pipe near the pop-up or shower screen and the heavier stuff will pass through. Occasionally as with a stick built, the pop-up or the shower screen will need to be removed and cleaned. But all part of ownership and maintenance.

As if this post isnt long enough__on page 2__Post 15, I did an overview of the waste tanks and related items.

Hope something helped.











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Old 01-15-2009, 05:30 AM   #54
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After reading Post 43, Drain system: Sinks, showers and washer, I identified the PEX tubing as Plex (bad spelling) and maybe mislead one to believe that the black drain piping was PVC. It is a plastic but is an ABS piping. Similar in purpose but is different in its makeup and strength.

Some time ago, someone inquired how to correct a leaking Pex fitting. The fittings in a Pex system are traditionally crimped. I have recently used a series of SHARKBITE connectors and fittings to install an additional sink at a residence. Was a simple push connection and installation and so far.no problems. Might consider this connector as a replacement to the crimp, they are available at Home Depot and Lowes.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:49 AM   #55
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44.__Shower faucet and Stuff.....

To continue with the plumbing journey Ive been on, heres an exciting post on the replacement of my shower faucet. I got tired of the hose that connects the output of the faucet to the shower head extending into the stall and bruising my arms. Not really but have to have some sort of drama with this post. Main purpose was to the reverse the faucet and have the hose extend down and then sweep up to the shower head.

Others have done this but for other reason. That was to prevent the possibility of water getting between the faucet body and the shower wall and leaking into the basement. I have never had this problem with mine.

My purpose initially was to just turn mine upside down and have the hose routed in the opposite direction. After removing and cleaning all the parts..I found the bottom plate had a small nick at the edge and there was a crack in the plate between one of the openings for the hose connection and the edge. This could have been sealed with the Plumbers Putty, so this wasnt a problem. What ended up being a reason for replacing the faucet was the discoloration on the part of the finish that was now visible. As the body is plastic with a brass finish, it had tarnished and couldnt be cleaned to make it look acceptable.

So the hunt for a new faucet was on. Found the only polished brass unit in my area at Camping World. It was a Phoenix Products Inc. model and had brass plumbing and stems. The original was all plastic. At a cost of $28.00, it cost twice what the original type would have cost. As my unit is 7 yrs old and receives weekend warrior use.this faucet will outlive my ownership.

PHOENIX has a nice web site with helpful information to be obtained. A local dealers catalog also indicates that replacement stems, bonnets, seats and washers can be ordered through the catalog for this as well as other Phoenix faucets. To replace both stems and seats on the faucet body would cost half the replacement cost of a new unit. With that said__I would rather replace the entire unit and have a fresh cover as well. My general rule of thumb has been, once half the cost of a repair is obtained___its replacement time. Of course this will depend on the item and circumstance at hand.


Here are a few web sites that might be helpful that I didnt include in the last series of post. As one who has ever had the pleasure to deal with plumbing, there isnt one size fits all to every task or problem. There are as many different faucets as there are ways to mount them and how to remove the handles or service the unit. Its best to retain the paperwork and other information on the product to make servicing it easier. Most everything is straight forward and can be completed by following a series of steps. One thing Ive learned___take the old part, stems etc, with you when looking for replacements.

REPAIRING A KITCHEN FAUCET
INSTALLING A MOEN BATH FAUCET
[REPLACING A BATHROOM FAUCET
INSTALLING A MOEN KITCHEN FAUCET
INSTALLING A SINGLE HANDLE FAUCET

The next post will be an upgrade of the Best Practices post on the Bathroom Upgrade.

Hope something helped.







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Old 01-22-2009, 05:31 AM   #56
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45.__Bathroom Upgrades

This is an update to a Best Practices post from last February. Thought I would freshen it up, make it longer and say it in a different way.

Closet Maid
MaxxFan

Next post: Heating system, Floor registers.

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