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Old 01-25-2009, 02:47 PM   #57
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46.__Heating System: Floor registers

I know, how exciting!

Everything can’t be about cutting and rebuilding something, can it? As I have completed all the major projects except one___and don’t know when I will close my eyes and jump into it___you will have to settle on fluff stuff and information things for awhile.

I do like the simple upgrades that make my 2001 model look and function better. Most projects that I will be posting in the near future have been completed long ago, it’s getting the pictures and time together in the same place to get it completed and posted. I’ve been trying to keep similar projects together which, in itself slows things down a bit. Who would have though I could have made this Topic last this long!
__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________

I needed to replace three 4 x 8 registers that are mounted at the floor ducts. Two are in the living area and one in the bath. On my unit, I have a total of seven outlets in my heating system and one air return grille. (In Post 10, page 1, I covered my heating system, I’m sure the basics are somewhat similar for most units).

The floor registers on my unit have held up reasonability well for being 7 yrs old. The bath register was the worst for wear and the only one that was adjustable. Like others have done, they were removed several times a year to vacuum the metal duct that seems to collect so much. In my case it’s beach sand.

If I remember correctly___there has been a question or two about the grilles and how to deal with the dust, dirt and whether any can be closed during use. The grilles I purchased were at Home Depot and have adjustable louvers, so hopefully I can keep the sand under control. They cost $5.30 each which was cheaper than Camping World and other local RV parts dealers. LOWES also carries similar grilles and has a friendlier web site to navigate and find information.

I have an Atwood, Model: 8535 IV furnace in my unit. The manual states, as a minimum, I need a total of 36 square inches of discharge opening and 65 sq inches of air return for my furnace to operate correctly. I have a total of five 4 inch flexible ducts on the rear of the furnace that connects to the two metal distribution ducts and other registers on my unit. Atwood classifies a 4 inch flex duct as having 12 sq inches of discharge and a 2 inch hose or opening as having 3 sq inches.

If my figures are correct___I have two 4 inch round, non-adjustable, grilles (24 sq in) and three floor 4x8 grilles (96 sq in), and if you add the two 2 inch discharges in the basement/storage areas for another 6 sq inches__there is a total of 126 sq inches of discharge surface at the registers. Even using the 12 sq inches for each flex at the rear of the furnace, that would still equals 60 sq inches of discharge.

Wonder what all the figures were about. Just a long way to say that I feel it’s possible to “partly” close the louvers on the floor grilles or to close one completely, the one under my recliner, and still be above the minimum requirements for my furnace to operate proficiently.

Before you make this determination, check your owners/installation manual for the minimum openings that your furnace requires.

Hope something helped.

ATWOOD heating system information

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Old 01-29-2009, 03:25 PM   #58
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47.__Scare Light: Who’s afraid of that?

Not me. But has concerned using the ladder and trying to balance the parts removed, tools used and hold onto those little screws. They sure are hard to find when they are dropped in the grass.

Like most things plastic, be it the vinyl inset in the trim, power vent domes, entry window trim__they all deteriorate or change color over time. My scare lights were no different.

Doing a Google search, I found a replacement from several on-line venders. I also found it at a local dealer. I ordered them through their Parts and Accessory catalog; you know the 2 inch book they give away at the counter. As I like to support a local dealer if I can, I ordered two replacements through them.

Had a minor problem with the curbside light that needed to be troubleshot and a connector replaced. Once that was done, replacing both lens was as simple as removing the 4 screws that secures the lens to the base ring. What an improvement in the unit’s appearance it makes for such a low cost and time invested.

If I remember correctly from a prior conversation on the Forum about this light, a question was asked on how to dim the light intensity so it’s not as bright. They wanted more of a night light and not as much a ‘reading lamp’.

By changing the bulb, to a different size, one could change the wattage and illumination output. Examples are: Bulbs: 1103 = 11.4w, 1141 = 18.4w and 1156 = 25.5w.

My unit had 1156 bulbs installed. The curbside light is controlled by a switch near the entry door. It is powered by fuse #6 in the Fuse Panel. The roadside light is controlled by a switch on the Utility Center panel, which also operates a small courtesy light for that panel. It is powered by fuse #1.

All small steps, all big improvements.

Next post: Stop light upgrade - More light the better!

Hope something helped.

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Old 02-02-2009, 11:58 AM   #59
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48.__Stop light upgrade - More light the better !

During a pre-trip light inspection, I noticed with the bikes mounted on the carrier, that the Stop/Turn/Tail light visibility ‘could be better’.

I didn’t have any of the lights covered, but between the bike’s wheels and ladder__I felt that they weren’t that visible either. On my prior unit I installed an additional light, somewhat higher and in the middle of the unit. It was installed as an S/T/T light and gave extra visibility when the Stop or Turn function was in operation.

Wanting to install additional lights on the Excel, I noticed that space was limited due to the ‘bay windows’. The placement that seems logical was the bumper. Placing the lights there would put them below the wheels and ladder and provided a good surface for mounting. Others have said that they have used temporary lighting with there motorcycles or with other items mounted on the rear receiver.

I chose to mount the lights permanent and to use LEDs. After viewing a lot of fixtures on the web, I decided to use a ‘light bar’ as it would mount on the face of the bumper and tend to blend in better than other styles I could have chosen.

The THIN-LINE LED fixture functions as a Stop/Turn/Tail light and has 11 – super diodes that are lite in all functions. Others that I found had 3-5 LEDs that would light during the Tail light function and half or all would illuminate when the Stop or Turn function was operated. At a cost of $24.95, these seemed to offer better lighting and value for the cost. I considered replacing the Bargman 84 S/T/T series lights also with the newer 84 series LED replacement. At a replacement cost of over $150.00, for the pair with the white trim, I decided the older style wasn’t that bad after all.

Yes, I know that Excel upgraded to LEDs somewhere around 2004, but for the older units like mine, this is rather exciting and HigH tech. If you haven’t looked at lighting lately, there are a lot of styles and options to choose from. Here are a few sites I visited during the search.

TRAILER LIGHT SUPERSTORE
PETERSON LIGHTING
BARGMAN LIGHTING

Hope something helped.











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Old 02-06-2009, 04:32 AM   #60
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I finally broke down and purchased a new 23 inch flat screen monitor for the computer. What a different view of things___17" CRT to 23" LCD. It's like sitting in the front row seats at the movie theater. Between the size and brightness of the screen, will need time to get used to. I'm very pleased with the color and sharpness this thing provides.

What I also noticed was that some of the prior posts color, sharpness and contrast look different on this monitor. Hopefully I wasn't making all my photo adjustments using an older monitor going south, and it’s just my new monitor that makes the contrast and color seem different. Still have some adjustments to do on this monitor, so will see if it’s me or Memorex.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:11 AM   #61
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49.__Do you know your lighting ?

The past two projects had me working on or modifying my lighting. These projects were different in their function, had different mounting and had different sources of power, among other things. This got me thinking about the other lighting on my unit. (Doesn’t take much to entertain!)

As I didn’t have a major project going on and maybe too much time on my hands, I decided to investigate the other lighting fixtures on my unit. I was somewhat surprised to learn there’s a total of 62 light fixtures. This includes the sixteen Bargman exterior marker lights, the five Sunray fluorescent fixtures on the ceiling and the four Gustafson courtesy light in the bathroom and at the steps to name a few. Overall I classified twenty-one different fixtures being used throughout the unit, as they say___’illuminating something’.

I was also surprised at the number of bulbs that would be needed to do a complete replacement. Seventy-four if I got them all. They ranged from a small #53 in the courtesy light to the F15T8’s that are used in the fluorescent fixtures. Considering the number of BULBS that are used, I’m amazed that I don’t have to replace more than I do. Would have to say the lightning in the RV is as reliable as those in the Stick built.

My prior unit had a combination of both 120vac and 12vdc lighting. My Excel has all 12vdc lighting, a larger 12vdc Fuse Panel and a more powerful converter. Of the 13 circuits on my Fuse Panel, 9 are for lighting. Each circuit fuse averages 15 amps in size and handles between 1 to 5 lights each as well as the power exhaust fans and other accessories. But mainly lighting.

The following is a summary of the lighting on my unit___different than yours in some locations or completely. Yes, as I am finding, I have some things in common with more current units and some not. Intent is to get one thinking about the lighting fixtures, who made it, what bulb is used and which fuse provides the power.

Found that some of the lighting fixtures on my unit were and could have been manufactured by various companies. The scare light, which was a recent post, could have been obtained and labeled from Gustafson, Bargman as well as several other companies. The lighted entry handle also had various manufacturers for the same item. Others like, the overhead fluorescents, made my SUNRAY and Thin-Lite are specific to the mfg of the lighting fixture.

GUSTAFSON LIGHTING and THIN-LITE supplied the majority of the decorative and interior lighting on my unit while BARGMAN LIGHTING provided the clearance, running and other exterior lighting. Here are a few other web sites that I found while researching the lighting:

Peterson lighting
Recreational Vehicle Accessories
Arcon Lighting
Trailer Light Superstore
Grote Lighting Manuals
Grote maintenance tips

So far the lighting on my unit hasn’t giving me a problem other than a bulb burnt out or a fixture not lighting when the switch is activated. This have been either a sticky switch, a loose connection or a bad contact at the bulb, especially those with the wedge base like the #921 or #194, small contact wires.

In order to obtain the bulb data, I had to remove the majority of the bulbs at least once to find the number. On some fixtures, a small warning label was attached to the inside of the fixture near the socket that provided the information. Regardless this ‘hunt’ had me looking at the lighting fixtures, bulbs, their circuit and power source in a way I haven’t done with my priors. Normally waited for something not to work and then when exploring. Do I feel empowered now or what?

What follows is a description of the various lighting fixtures. It covers every light in my unit I could find; even the light in the refrigerator is listed. I separated them into interior and exterior, gave them an index number and plotted them in AutoCAD. A fixture/bulb Table is provided at the end that provides the bulb data, quantity needed and bulb wattage.

Wanting to make life easy on myself when the worst happens, the day when another bulb goes out__I decided to purchase spare bulbs at my leisure and have them on hand. To help control all the bulbs, I use a small container for storage. When one thinks of 74 bulbs being on the unit__was surprised to find that only 11 different bulbs numbers were needed. Because on a good day, I’m not able to read those ‘little stamped numbers’ on the bulb base, I used a black marker and wrote large numbers on the base, of most, to label the bulb. Hopefully I will be able to see it without my glasses? The container and several F15T8 tubes are stored above the bath vanity’s medicine cabinet, on the small ledge. Out of the way and secure.

Of course, this project led to something else. The Fuse Panel and the 12vdc that powers it. What good does it do me to know the lighting fixture and bulb data if I didn’t know what makes it glow in the dark. But that’s another story. Do you know your Fuses?

Hope something helped.












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Old 02-07-2009, 05:21 AM   #62
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You got me thinking now about a lightbar for the back of my trailer. I hang recliner chairs on my ladder, which partially block the left turn signal/stop light.

Maybe a lightbar with integrated turn signals would do the trick, coming off the rear trailer wiring? Installed under the middle rear slider window?

Ain't never drilled into the walls, so I gets a bit nervous thinkin' about it. Maybe a shot of JD will calm me down, tho not the same day as the drillin'.
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Old 02-14-2009, 04:00 AM   #63
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50.__ 12 Volt circuits and fuse protection.

Might as well get another cup of coffee or something and make yourself comfortable___this could be a long one!

Whereas the last post discussed the lighting on my unit, this post will detail the fuse protection and circuits on my unit. Once again, I know my unit is not the same as most and not everything will be the same……intent is for me to gain a little more knowledge about my unit and maybe have you thinkin’ about yours.

Putting it all together, I tried to figure out a way to make this post shorter than it is. But at the same time didn’t want to separate the text and description from the drawings. Just too much information, so be warned.

Hope something helped.













These are two fuse charts I put together. One lists all the fuses used on the unit, their number, size, etc. The other is for the fuse panel, which is located outside and shares the same compartment as the 120vac panel and front jack switches. I folded it in half, had it laminated and leave it in the compartment for use if needed.










To make this longer.....I've included several drawings of my unit. They show the location of the equipment, how some are connected to additional equipment and what fuse circuit they are on. As the 12vdc fuse panel was vague on information___to find the circuits and equipment, all the fuses were pulled and inserted one at a time to see what it powered. Once I had a rough list, I did it in reverse order, pulled just one fuse and checked the equipment again, to ensure I got it right. Being such a small area, it didn't take that much time. Even though the panel wasn't well defined, the other fuses weren't labeled as well and it was this phase of the search that allowed me to think of and look for the others.








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Old 02-14-2009, 12:50 PM   #64
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Workshop,
I was wondering if you could upgrade to a 2007 or 2008 35MKE and provide the same diagrams, charts and information on that particular unit. It sure would be nice to have...without having to go to all that work. Besides, you have conquered the unknowns in your unit, I think you need a new challenge!
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:46 AM   #65
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Why does a manufacturer use two different fuses, i.e. ATC and AGC? Do they have different properties?
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:09 AM   #66
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Sue,

thanks for the invite for another challenge...will admit I'm getting to the ends of the 'unknowns' with the Beast. But if I was upgrading would rather go to a 30 ft'er range, it would be a better fit for what we do. When we were looking to upgrade from our prior, we were looking for a 30' in the 3-4 year old range. The Beast was such a good deal at the time....went older and longer than we wanted to initially. Well here I am. Will consider the 35MKE as a second option.

Bruce,

with the keep out of trouble knowledge I have on fuses....the ATC and AGC fuses can do the same things and are just different in design. The ATC's are just newer type fuses, and the AGC's, AG = Automotive Glass, is just an older type fuse that still has a lot of functions in today’s world. Where the ATC's come in standards of 3 amps to 30 amp___the AG's can range from 1/20 amp to 30's as well. I look at it like CD's and DVD's, one is newer if purpose than the other, but both have a purpose. From what I've been able to find, ATC's are a more general type fuse, fast acting by design for use, whereas the glass type fuses can come in a verity of lengths, thickness and blow rates, meaning fast acting and slow blows under demand of use.

The fuse on the refrigerator cooling fan in my post had a 1 amp fuse. This is outside the ATC range of fuses. The fuse for the Ulta-Fab landing gear is 30 amp slow blow fuses, also out side the range of the ATC. But all the fuses on the Fuse panel were ATC's because they didn't require anything that provided a time delay reaction. But if you look at the demands of the different circuits on the unit, F10 on the panel is a 10 amp ATC which also provides power to the two Northern Breeze exhaust fans. Each fan has its own protection utilizing a 6 amp AGC slow blow fuse. The AGC in this example has a panel mount holder installed on the fan housing.

To me different type fuses are used for different reasons, either because of the mounting needed, the amperage required the rate in which it blows or convinces and preference. Can one imagine a ATC mounted on the back of the Thermostat for the furnace. I replace a few of the AG's where I could and left the rest alone. When doing so, be sure to take into consideration the fuse size, rate of blow and the replacement fuse holders amperage rating as well. When the fuse holder in the front compartment light circuit that was replaced with an ATC, it was rated at 10 amps for two compartment lights. When the rear landing gear was removed from the front jacks and given its own circuit, I used an AGC type holder rated at 30 amps but used a 20 amp AGC type slow blow fuse in the circuit. Replacing the correct fuse holder capacity is as important as the correct fuse used.

Here's a few links to fuses I found that might make it clear or not. Seems like Bussman and Littelfuse make the majority of the fuse for our needs. Couldn't find one stop shopping for information of fuses, their meaning and such like you can with some items. Just have to piece it together.

FUSEOLOGY
AUTOMOTIVE ATC"s
ATC COLOR CODES
CIRCUIT PROTECTIVE DEVICES
GLASS FUSES
FUSE HOLDERS
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:05 AM   #67
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Index: Post 1 to 51

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Old 05-16-2009, 01:45 PM   #68
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Well__hopefully by the end of the weekend I will be able to post #51, Water filter and regulator. It is a project that I completed several months ago and had posted pictures in another post which resulted in several emails on its size and how it was built. Thought it would be easier to add it to Renovation 101 as a permanent post.

As you will notice the format and layout of the post have changed. This is due to a computer failure several months ago that resulted in the hunt for and purchase of a new computer. Thankfully it wasn't the hard drive but it did cost extra $$$$$ to retrieve the information and have it loading on the new computer. One problem……I hadn't been backing the information up often enough. As someone who has thousands of photos and AutoCad drawings__the vision of loosing some of the information didn't result in pleasant thoughts. As I can learn from prior mistakes, I now backup weekly on a portable hard drive and burn a disk as least once a month. If you haven't been backing up important information on your computer, it could happen to you and it's not a good feeling.

Another learning experience has been new software. The prior computer, 4 years old, was running Window's XP,__the new, Windows Vista with the 64-bit system. Found out after installing the computer, that my two HP scanners, one flatbed and one photo, wouldn't work with Vista. HP decided either because of their age or the product wasn't current, wouldn't produce drivers to make them work. I now have a new Epson photo scanner as a result. The costly part came when my versions of photo software and the AutoCad wouldn't load or open. Short version…..costly software upgrades. Luckily some companies will let you download a Free Trail version to let you use the software before you purchase. Learned this after I upgraded my Photo Elements to version 6, registered for Vista, and realized it wouldn't work with the 64 bit system and no patches were being offered and no refund because it had been opened. I now use Corel's Paint Shop Pro X2 as my photo software. More functions and options and having to learn everything new and after several months, still a lot to learn. As I used the last program's photo browser….I had to sort all the photos and install in new folders by subject. I now use the Window's Picture folder and open/edit the photos from the sub-folders or use the Organizer Mode in Pro X2.

Summary: backup your computer and know if your existing software is compatible with the operating system when you upgrade.

Task now at hand is to produce the post in Word, print in photo quality, scan into Pro X2, adjust the size, resolution and file type that iRV2 will accept (300k) and export to the current '101' folder. Prior size has been 808x1056 pixels and as close to 300k as possible for better clarity. Have determined that the Epson V500 scanner and software is a much better product than the HP units I was using at a 1/3 of the cost, so not everything has been a negative. Have made several test runs and think I have it figured out!?!?!?

The new Forum software has been interesting to learn, some things I like and some not. But after the past several months___learned few things stays the same. With an earlier upgrade to the Forum….it caused a lot of problems with areas of the '101' posts that had been highlighted with either ' or ". It took about 10 hours of editing to correct that. Glad to see the posts survived this last upgrade but either because of or other reasons___links to some of the web sites have been lost. Not bad I guess and could have been worse.

Depending on the NASCAR race tonight and the weather tomorrow…Post #51 will be completed soon.
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:25 PM   #69
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51.__Water filter and regulator: Utility box

Wanting to have use of a better water filter system and a way to manage the water pressure in my unit, I decided to build a useable case for both. Would have liked to have had the filter mounted within a storage compartment__but there wasn't a logical or easy way to plumb it and have it in a location that was easy to service.

This is the second case that I've built. Both were similar in design but different, the first one was painted and had a different door design. The second was finished off using materials I had in the workshop from other projects. The laminate used to finish the interior of the case was left over from a kitchen counter redo...the exterior was from the compartment door project. The exposed surfaces are either aluminum trim, fiberglass sheeting or a PVC composite material that made up the edges and bottom of the project. Hopefully as weather proof as it sounds but being partly under the slide it should remain reasonably dry.

A drawing is provided at the end of the post and can be built in a simpler manner by using stock plywood materials and painting the project. As a finish carpenter....I prefer to make life more difficult.

The finish project weights 26 lbs, which includes the water within the system. I installed a shutoff valve on the inlet and outlet to retain the water within the lines and filter when the system is not in use as I didn't want the filter to dry out or get contaminated when not in use.

Before installing the 10' hose to the inlet of the unit….I flush the filter and hoses before use. I connect to the inlet of the unit with a 90 degree fitting with a quick disconnect on the hose end. All other fittings also have quick disconnects except where it connects to the hose bib. Makes for an easy setup.

The pressure regulator was a gift from the Out Laws and was obtained from CW. If it ever fails, it will be replaced with a Watts unit. I regulate my system pressure to be between 45-50 psi. Works for me.

RV Water Filter Store: filter housing and element. Also great source of information.
Pressure regulators: RV WFS
Watts: Home page for water pressure regulators
Watts: Water safety & flow control__Learn About

Hope something helped,






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Old 06-02-2009, 05:52 PM   #70
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Thanks to your very DETAILED description I was able to rebuild both of my basement doors. It took most of 1 1/2 days at a cost of about $40 Thanks again.
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