Community Forums

Bruce and Jenna · 05-08-2009, 09:53 AM

After a shower, I noticed water dripping from the floor opening under the shower around the drain. Not the drain pipe, but rather the flooring and vinyl opening around the drain.

Then I sees this at the shower faucet. Maybe water running down the hose? The pipe doesn’t easily move back to center in the hole at the top of the faucet. Didn’t want to force it if I shouldn’t.

Then I also got to thinking – how does one get to the shower plumbing in this 33RSE? Take out the shower surround? Tear out the kitchen wall and cabinet? Squeeze up from the bottom, using my superpowers, like Mr. Gumby?

rockintom · 05-08-2009, 11:23 AM

Hey Bruce,

Sorry for the late response....another major computer crash. You should be able to get to an access panel on the back wall usually in the back of the kitchen cabinets on your model (gotta pull everything out to view). Take out the screws off the panel and wa-la there's the back of the faucet. By the looks of pix you posted...you need to replace the faucet assy. Easy fix. Have many rags to absorb water from the hoses on this replacement. I suggest only use a faucet with brass guts (the original faucet is cheap plastic guts). Cost twice as much but worth the upgrade. Obtain from a RV parts store or CW. Demand a brass gut faucet. When you re-install you can point the hose down toward the floor so you eliminate the pooling of water on top of the faucet and possible leaking by the faucet gasket and forming a leak outside the shower stall ( basically the same leak you have now). Hope that helps! RockinTheLeakKing

Bruce and Jenna · 05-08-2009, 12:14 PM

Late response indeed! I waited probably an hour for you!!

You seem to speak from experience.

Now comes the big question. Can I remove and reinstall that faucet from the front, or must I get to it from the back?

I don't readily see access from my kitchen.

rockintom · 05-08-2009, 12:27 PM

My bad! I will have to re-phrase to....on most units. Is there no access panel in the shower just below the faucet? I've seen that on some models. With your luck, it's behind the micro/convection unit! If not, call Jack today. He should be able to tell you. And no there is no frontal removal....if you could, everyone would do that!!! I know I tried to on mine to remove it from the front first time around!

LarryGodby · 05-08-2009, 12:56 PM

Bruce,

On my RSE the panel is where we have the washer and dryer, you may have a closet there.

rockintom · 05-08-2009, 01:11 PM

Larry, that would mean your faucet is mountd on the wall facing the rear of the rig??? Is that right? Been a while since I was in one that old!!!Just teasin' Ha. rockin'

LarryGodby · 05-08-2009, 01:24 PM

No what it means is the faucet is mounted on the wall towards the front or on the wall facing the rear. Confusing, should be, now get back to work.

Bruce and Jenna · 05-08-2009, 10:17 PM

Now I’m confused. The faucet is mounted on the stall wall facing the rear of the trailer, the wall shared with the kitch cabinets, microwave, and oven.

The washer/dryer closet faces the opposite wall, toward the front of the trailer. Sure wish the faucet was mounted on that wall, but that shower wall is actually glass.

33RSE layout

rockintom · 05-08-2009, 11:06 PM

Bruce,

I think ol' Larry be messin' with our heads. He really shouldn't do that, as we get confused pretty good on our own!!! Ha. rockin'

Bruce and Jenna · 05-11-2009, 02:14 PM

Just talked with a helpful PI technician. Who also said that I should remove the microwave.
Take out the two vertical bolts on the front of the overhead cabinet floor
Remove the vent panel at the top of the microwave and unscrew two bolts that hold it to the back plate.
Lift the microwave off the bracket.

OK then. Next question. Replacement faucet with brass fittings. I read this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f116/show...eak-41170.html in which John G ordered a new shower faucet from CW. With a “brass body.” I called my local CW and fella there said that their shower faucet has plastic parts.

So I wonder if John’s CW faucet has durable valves or washers or whatever in that “brass underbody.” BTW – the CW description says that “Each Phoenix faucet is quality tested and made with brass, Celcon™ or Durapro™ plastic underbody.”

Workshop · 05-11-2009, 05:50 PM

Bruce, on page 4...post #44 on my 101, (bottom of page) I replaced the shower faucet on my unit and used the one from CW that had the brass piping and valves. It was the only one my CW had in stock.

I did the post and used photos to show the difference between the plastic and brass. Luckily to get to the back of my faucet was easy to get to through the washer/dryer closet.

rockintom · 05-11-2009, 07:00 PM

rockin' says: With your luck, it's behind the micro/convection unit!

As mentioned I thought it might be there. workhorse is right about the faucet brass guts!!. I might suggest that you get help in the R&R of the micro as they are heavy. I use duct (or as Chief says Duck tape) on the edges of the micro to prevent putting scratches on the walls, etc.

If you could wait, I'd be glad to assist you on this endeavor if you swung by Portland to visit. You're are already into me for a case of beer, right?

Bruce and Jenna · 05-12-2009, 08:35 AM

Chris,
Kewl man. That info should be enough.

Glad to see that the CW faucet will work.

With only a few days till departure, I figure to slap some caulk in the opening till I get to Rockin's place. He has offered to fix the whole mess for me while I drink a case of beer. Nuts to all you people who say bad things about him!

Don't worry Rockin'. I'll buy the parts this time!

evan0810 · 05-12-2009, 08:52 AM

I'm wondering if using painter's tape to tape a piece of cardboard to the wall might be better. Duct tape may remove everything but the insulation when you remove it.
Ed