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Old 09-10-2016, 10:52 AM   #1
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Solar Install

I have a 2007 Excel 30RSO and considering a solar installation. My key question at this time is routing the down lead from the roof to the basement. I'm planning to use #4 welding wire for this cable segment. It will provide low loss, future upgrade options and be more flexible than standard #4 AWG electrical cable. I know some use the frig chimney, others use a vent pipe.

On my frig chimney roof cap there is little or no vertical space to pass wires through the side. For those who have used a vent pipe, how did you run the cables in and out of the pipe, any photos would be great? What other solutions have folks used for this problem?

I’ve been considering using a Solardeck AC/DC combiner box on the roof deck over the bedroom closet and then routing the cables down through the closet, under the side cabinet below the window and then down into the basement. I have some concern about how much cross sectional area two #4 welding wires will take up in a vent pipe and getting those wires into and back out the pipe.

A second area of interest is where do people place all this electrical equipment in the basement? I do not have or plan to have a built-in genset. So that space is open to me. I don’t have an inverter at this time, but plan on installing a small (1000 – 2000 watt) with the solar system along with a small AC panel. Presently, the converter is attached to the under side of the bedroom stairs. I’d like to move the converter and get all of the new AC and DC components located in one place. I’m thinking on the forward of the basement or in the genset compartment. At least on my 30RSO I have a battery compartment above the furnace that can accommodate only two 6-volt batteries. If I use the genset compartment then the batteries probably need to be moved forward as well in their own vented box system. This would allow me to add more than the 2 six volt batteries I have now. But, it also puts lots more weight far forward and will add to the pin weight.

What’s worked well or not so well for others?
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:07 PM   #2
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I assume you are a DIYer. In an Alpenlite 5er, I had access to a plumbing wall (where the water pipes fed the shower). After checking with a meter that shows where current is present I placed a hole thru the roof on center line of the plumbing wall. To do that I cut a block of wood to fit underneath the roof in the access area. "X" the block to find center, drilled the pilot hole thru the block, and using double faced tape, secured the block in place, between the studs and on the underneath side of the roof. Then using the block hole as a center I drilled through the roof from below.

Then from the roof side I centered over the hole a plumbing vent cap and fixture. And marked the cutline with a magic marker. I then cut thru the roof membrane with a razor blade. And used a hole saw to cut the hole just big enough for a pvc vent pipe. Then attached the fixture with screws and sealant.

Next I glued a coupling on a 12”- 16” long piece of pvc pipe. After curing I cut all but about 1/2" of the coupling from the pvc pipe. This left me w/ a 1/2" collar on one end of the pvc pipe, which I filed round over the top edge. I slipped the pvc pipe into the vent fixture. The collar prevented the pvc pipe from going all the way thru.

Next I ran my wires from the solar panels down the pvc pipe to the controller. And screwed and sealed the fixture and pvc pipe with the cap.

I never had an issue with this installation. I believe this procedure would work fine in a closet too. I think the pvc pipe was 1 1/2” put you should purchase the cap first and let it determine the pipe size.

Roof vent cap: http://www.rvpartscountry.com/RV-Plu...ial-White.html
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:24 AM   #3
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http://www.irv2.com/forums/f44/modif...el-149919.html

This is how I set mine up. I would try to come down with your cable directly above the batteries with as little wire as possible. Maybe in a corner with corner mold. My equipment is in my signature and the set up works great. I put this in myself after I bought the rig in 1/13. I had it on my Alfa previously. I have better pics of the install I will try to locate.

My Trojan batteries weigh about 65# each, the inverter 50#, panels around 15#. You would probably add around 300#, but not all that would be on
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:11 AM   #4
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You battery bank needs to be located in a different compartment but close to the inverter/converter. I have 6-6v batteries, in the battery compartment and the inverter/converter and the solar controller in the next compartment.

Here are links that may help: RV Electrical

solarseller.com alternative energy by John Drake Services, Inc.
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #5
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I haven't done a solar install, but I have the same floor plan as you do and an easy way to get wires from the roof to the basement might be the refrigerator vent. You could pull the refrigerator partially or completely out to help fish the wires. Should be plenty of room, but you may have to shield the wires from heat, depending on which side you go down (there's already both 110 and 12v wiring back there). I always thought the cabinet over the fridge was long term storage since it's too high to easily access so maybe you could locate some of you solar stuff there. Some inverters come with a converter, so you may not have to relocate your current converter. Where to put additional batteries is a puzzle since the 30RSO only has room for two. Maybe go with AGM batteries and put another couple in the utility area next to the furnace? Whole house lithium ion batteries are rapidly approaching. Elon Musk has announced a unit that hangs on the wall, but I'm guessing it won't be cheap. I'd be interested in seeing what you decide to do. - John
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:15 AM   #6
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The refer vent is used too often, this in technically a bad idea. Heat from the fridge also heats the solar wires, which causes resistance, and more heat.
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:27 PM   #7
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I agree, refer vent not good alternative. I looked at your floor plan and if the batteries are up front as I suspect, the refer route would increase the length of your solar runs by at least 14-16 ft.
If a vent stack is available and would not significantly increase the length of your runs I would use it. Otherwise I would drill straight thru the roof as near as possible to being directly above location of batteries, hide the wires inside and use a plastic junction box (app. 4x4 with top from Lowe's)on roof as per my pic. Easy and clean.
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Old 09-16-2016, 05:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janieD View Post
Where to put additional batteries is a puzzle since the 30RSO only has room for two. Maybe go with AGM batteries and put another couple in the utility area next to the furnace?
I was also able to easily extend battery box to hold 4 large 6 Volt Interstates and if you want pics or details post as our rigs should be the same.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:42 PM   #9
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I was also able to easily extend battery box to hold 4 large 6 Volt Interstates and if you want pics or details post as our rigs should be the same.
Sure, I wouldn't mind seeing that. - John
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:35 PM   #10
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Check out these Combiner boxes from AM Solar for either fridge vent or roof penetration of solar cables. Rv Combiner Box - Roof Mount Combiner Box. Solar Panel Combiner Box
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:06 AM   #11
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Combiner boxes can be made from plastic electrical boxes from Home Depot. They sell the water tight connectors and bus bar strips also. I have used them myself with success. And they are much less $ than AM Solar.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:39 AM   #12
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Click image for larger version

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Check out Flow Rite for watering battery's. I am on 2nd four battery bank in 10 years, these ones are over three.
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:00 AM   #13
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Combiner boxes can be made from plastic electrical boxes from Home Depot. They sell the water tight connectors and bus bar strips also. I have used them myself with success. And they are much less $ than AM Solar.
My thought was the Combiner that allows you to go through side of fridge vent and thus no holes in roof and on the RSO 30 you are dropping cables almost right into battery box where needed some other benefits too IMO, note may be limited on wire gauge with the side of roof vent style.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:56 PM   #14
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Have you tried contacting excelrvguy? He helped me out quite a bit when I installed my panels. He told me precisely where to drill the hole in the roof in order to put a 1" pvc conduit down to the basement within 20" of the battery box. I put a 4x4 box on the roof as a combiner box for my 4-160 watt panels and used #6 welding cable down to the charge controller. I just added two sb50 connectors so that I can work on the charge controller or charge aux batteries without damaging the controller.
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