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Old 02-25-2018, 01:52 AM   #1
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Exclamation Damon Daybreak 2006 chassis battery drain chase

Hi, new to RVing and just bought this 2006 daybreak by Damon. The chassis battery is a new interstate installed by PO in purchase agreement. Ever since getting it home the chassis battery has been depleting to v12.3+/- in about 3 days. I recharge with a charger outside the coach and have left disconnected unless trying to work on it. My voltmeter wouldn't measure DC Amps, so I bought a new one and just got it. I hooked the battery up after replacing the house batteries with new interstate 6v in series. They were old and wouldn't hold a charge.

So this is what I have done so far.
Disconnect house battery negative cable. Measure amp draw on negative cable on chassis battery , .9 amps. That seems high to me for normal parasitical drains. There are 4 positive leads coming off the positive terminal.
1, going to inoperative lipert leveling jack pump, 0 amps
2, going to battery control relays, .25 amps
3 going into what looks like the chassis, Ford, control wiring harness along with #4 wire. It looks to have about .65 Amps, not very accurate because of tight conditions to get clamp style meter on the wire.
4 chassis wiring harness, I'm assuming the starter solenoid at other end, frankly I'm not sure that I even measured it, I will have to do it tomorrow.

I immediately dove into the .25 amp draw on the battery control relays because I found them intriguing. This unit has 2 large relays on the face of it and behind them a circuit board with about 9 atc fuses on one end. I think this is a BCC by Intelletic. The draw was coming off one lug on the momentary relay and going to the circuit board 25 Amp fuse at the bottom of the line of fuses. I tested both relays for functionality and found them good. I checked all the atc fuses and found a bad 5A fuse in the middle of the row of fuses. I don't have any 5A fuses here so I have to let that rest until I procure some. I cracked open the case around the circuit board and inspected the components visually, all looked pristine condition, no signs of overheating. Put it all back together because I can't figure out what all these imputs are from that are feeding this thing data. I could use some help on that one. The brand of the board is intelletic, on the outside of the case there is a faded sticker that says 00-00635-000, 22205,SING DISC BCC. The board INSIDE says 1-0 2205 04-00551-DDD rev D UL94V-0.

Tomorrow I will try to figure out the chassis drain going into the factory harness. I plan on starting by pulling out fuses to see if I can kill it. Problem here is that none of the fuses are labeled and I don't have the documentation on anything about this RV. None came with the purchase. If I find a drain by pulling fuses , how do I locate the end of the wire, if it feeds more that one thing it could take a long time.

Greg
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:53 PM   #2
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That 5 amp fuse will fix your problem. I had the very same thing happen to me. I was camping over night. When I got up the next morning to leave, the chassis battery was dead. I tried using the emergency start, with no luck! Called a friend and he came and gave me a jump. I drove home and dove straight into troubleshooting. Like you, I found the 5 amp fuse blown. When I was installing the new one, I heard one of the relay click. This got me to wandering why the relay was energized. Well, after some research, I found out that it is suppose to be constantly energized. You are correct, that is the BBC Board. It controls the function between what batteries get charged and when, and how much. That is the short version. Anyway, what I learned is the house and chassis battery will charge while plugged into shore power, (provided that 5 amp fuse is not blown.) and the same thing will occur while driving down the road, your chassis and house batteries will be charged from the engine alt. The BBC simply controls which batteries will receive a charge and at what low voltage it will allow the charge to occur. I left this 5 amp fuse out on purpose to see what would happen. The only thing that happen was the chassis batteries would not receive any current flow while plugged into shore power or generator. Once I put the fuse back in everything went back to normal operation. I can not explain why or what blew that fuse and what caused the chassis battery to go completely dead. Everything is back to normal, and the emergency start switch even provides current from the house batteries to the chassis. I can only guess that the BBC somehow, went left that night, caused power to be drawn from the chassis battery instead of the inverter and house batteries. Sorry, I can not explain just the exact cause, but I'm sure it was just a momentary fault of the BBC. I have not had any problems since that night. If you replace that fuse, and it continues to drain the chassis battery, try leaving the fuse out for awhile and see what happens. I ran my MH for about a month without the fuse. It simply meant the chassis battery would only charge from the engine alt. By the way, My chassis battery would only read about 12.5 volts, then when I installed the 5 amp fuse again, the volts climbed to 13.2 when the motor home sitting idle, plugged into shore power. I chalked the whole incident up to PM (Pure Magic!!!) With that solenoid constanty energized, I'm sure draws some current. When you replace that fuse, you will hear it, and then a few minutes later, you can feel just how hot that relay gets. But, everything I have researched says it is suppose to be constantly energized. So my own thought on this? If the solenoid is energized all the time, the BBC must direct current from the house inverter to keep the chassis battery charged. If the fuse is blow, then that task becomes impossible. What caused the fuse to blow, no idea, but it has never done it again. Hope all this confused thought helps in some sort of way. You can do a search at the top, in the search box, about any subject. Just type in BBC model, or any information, and it should come up with some good informational topics. Good Luck, and let use know what fixed your problem. That is usually our biggest problem here, a lot of people never report back what finally fixed their faulty condition.
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:59 AM   #3
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day 2

Today it was raining cats and dogs , so I didn't work on it much as it is out in the weather. Identified a couple leaks though, in both back corners, I think it is the running lights. I will deal with it another day. This thing leaks all over!!

Onto the problem at hand. Hawkeye is correct! The 5A fuse did solve all the problems on that circuit. The .25A battery drain went away on Positive lead #2 on the battery(see earlier post), I heard the solenoid "click" as soon as I stuck the 5A fuse in. The BCC unit seems to work flawlessly now, I did forget to try out the dash emergency start switch though. The converter charges the chassis, the alternator charges the house. One other difference that I see is that now, when I am on shore power the house disconnect switch has no affect, it always had an effect before I replaced the fuse. I hear the solenoid click but the power stays on, I'm going with the assumption that is as it was designed to be.

Back to parasitical power draw on chassis battery. I still have .65 Amps going on the negative wire. That is how I expected it with the .25A draw gone from wire #2. I was having a hard time getting the meter on the chassis wires, #3 and 4, so I am going to just assume that it is still there on #3 like yesterday. I will have to resort to pulling fuses inside sometime this week, I have a fairly busy schedule so I may not get it done until next Saturday.

I'm making progress, so that is good.

I still need to get hold of a wiring diagram and an owners manual.
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Old 02-27-2018, 05:00 PM   #4
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Yes you are correct. The battery disconnect only works once you remove shore or generator power. You can find a electric diagrams in the files section. I placed some there for the 2006 Damon Daybreak about a month or so ago. I have not looked but they should be there. Let me know.
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Old 02-27-2018, 05:37 PM   #5
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My 2005 Daybreak Chassis battery has been acting up also. The battery shop has replaced it once already. I am able to jump it and its fine after being pluged in for a while.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stMH View Post
My 2005 Daybreak Chassis battery has been acting up also. The battery shop has replaced it once already. I am able to jump it and its fine after being pluged in for a while.
I would disconnect all shore power. Leave the key in the off position and in two hours, I would see if one of those two relays on the BCC is getting hot. If so, I would think this would be your problem, because there should be no power going to the relays for them to energize. This is just an opinion, I think that power is allowed to energize the relay when the key is off, and this should not happen. As the battery gets weaker, heat is generated in the wiring, causing the fuse to blow. As I said in the above post, this has only happen once, and I have not had a problem since. KNOCK ON WOOD! Again, this is just an opinion. You can pull the 5 amp fuse, and the only thing that will happen is the chassis battery will not get a charge from shore power or house generator. I tested this for several weeks, and once I reinstalled the fuse, everything worked as it should. Worth a try, let us know.

PS. If I remember right, I believe the emergency start switch even worked with the 5 amp fuse removed. Fuse only controlled charging direction.
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Old 02-28-2018, 12:33 AM   #7
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Hawkeye, thanks for the file on the owners manual. I went thru it and couldn't find the key for the chassis fuses under the steering wheel. There are several slots that are not occupied by fuses, I can only hope that the previous owners didn't switch any around. I saw at the end of the manual there was the electrical diagrams and they mostly referenced the bcc for their power. I haven't worked on it today, I will try a bit tomorrow if I get a chance.

For any battery drain that the cause is not obvious, I think you need an amp meter to track exactly where the power is going. A 1 amp draw will drain your battery in 3 days. I already cured a 1/4 amp draw by replacing the 5amp fuse in the BCC. Still have a .7amp draw to figure out.

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Old 03-01-2018, 12:13 AM   #8
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kgduyck - Try this link, see if this is the book your looking for? https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+damon+daybreak+ford+chassis+manual&x =27&y=13&sitesearch=irv2.com&gws_rd=ssl
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Old 03-01-2018, 12:18 AM   #9
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I think the PDF file on this page may be what your looking for. Mine is a Workhorse, so the owner manual will not do you much good. Hope that helps. You can also go to Thor Motorhome web page and download the motorhome manual. I know they have the 2006, because it was the one I had to download. Hope all this helps.
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:47 AM   #10
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many thanks hawkeye

Yes, this is exactly what I was looking for. I had contacted Thor and gotten an owners manual, which turned out to be the same as the one you had already posted, this pdf completes the picture. I haven't gotten any extra time to work on it, but I expect to have an idea of the problem by the end of the weekend, now that I have all the tools I need.
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgduyck View Post
Yes, this is exactly what I was looking for. I had contacted Thor and gotten an owners manual, which turned out to be the same as the one you had already posted, this pdf completes the picture. I haven't gotten any extra time to work on it, but I expect to have an idea of the problem by the end of the weekend, now that I have all the tools I need.
Your welcome, let us know what you come up with for a solution. Looks like 1stMH could use some of your findings. It appears he has a battery draining down. Good luck. Safe travels.
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:57 PM   #12
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day 3

Today I started out by hooking up the chassis battery negative cable. The amp draw on the negative cable was still the .7A that I have been getting consistently. I also measured the battery voltage. The chassis battery was 12.6v , so I recharged for a while with the coach plugged into shore power and using the converter, which is working properly now (after replacing 5A fuse in the BCC in previous post)and is charging both house and chassis batteries. After a while, I unplugged the shore power and pushed the house battery disconnect switch. I then measured the Amp draw on the negative chassis battery cable, .25A ?!?, why the change? The draw was still on the chassis lead, so I headed into the cab with my wife watching the meter. I started down the line of fuses, when I got to fuse #4Click image for larger version

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Pulling the 10A fuse had no affect, but on reinserting it the amp draw climbed up to .85A and I heard a faint noise of a small pump that sounds like it is coming from the firewall around the BCC , in front of the driver. The wife outside by the battery couldn't hear it. The pump sound continued for a few seconds, stopped for a bit, started again for a bit and stopped for good. The Amp draw fell off a bit but stayed elevated from the .25A that we started with. I pulled the fuse and it dropped back to the .25A and reinserted and it repeated the above sequence of events.
I continued pulling fuses, when I got to fuse #16,( a 20A fuse), and pulled it, the amp draw dropped .25. So I pulled both 4 and 16 and the draw went to 0. Yay!! When we plug #16 back in the we both hear a click sound that makes me think of a relay that sounds like the relays on the BCC, but it is coming from behind them somewhere. I haven't figured out either sound yet. I then headed to the chassis owners manual that Hawkeye directed me to. The chart on the fuse panel says nothing about #4 which is 10A and on #16, which is 20A, is just says that it is a BATTERY FEED for the top side of dash panel.
In conclusion I believe that both of these circuits are something that DAMON added. And I will have to do some more digging to find out exactly where these noises are coming from that we hear. The good side of this whole exercise it that I know I can get the amp draw down to zero if I pull both of these fuses.
I will work on it more tomorrow and post my results. If anyone knows any info on these two circuits please let me know.

Greg
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:55 PM   #13
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day 4

Today when I measured the amp draw before I did anything it was .26A. I pulled both fuses and reinstalled several times trying to pinpoint where the 2 sounds were coming from. I determined that they both we inside the cab, somewhere under the steering wheel or in vicinity. After reinserting several times I noticed that our amp draw was down to zero, or close to it. So I am leaving it for now to see if the high draw comes back. Like I said before , I just bought this unit, I believe it was sitting a long time, so I believe all the electrical is suffering from lack of use and maybe us using it will fix some of the problems on their own.

Greg
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:21 PM   #14
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If I understand you correctly, when you pull the two fuse the current draw goes to zero? And you have no idea what they power? So, this may sound a little strange. Why not pull one fuse at a time, and see what is not working on the MH. I would think anything under the steering column would have to do with starting, turn signal, and horn. I would simply just pull a fuse, see if it starts, go through all the normal light checks, etc. Just a thought. Only thing relay that would click, I think would be hazard lights, turn signal, wiper blades, start relay and possible brake system. It just a guess, At this point, anything is worth a try.
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