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Old 11-09-2011, 04:25 PM   #43
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Dash Cam wire

Not really a Mod - more like a tip. Have had dash camera long enought be sure it will be around awhile. So I wanted to clean up dash and run power wire into dash to power source. Accidently touched rubber between windshield and dash and guess what - it is soft foam rubber, took all of one minute to push wire under foam with my finger. Dash clean again. Cost: $0.00 and less than one minute
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:37 PM   #44
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added a much needed outlet at the drivers left knee area below the bag dump switch.
now i can power up a lamp on the dash or in winter i run a small ceramic heater on the dash to keep windshield rain at bey

i ran a wire across the under carriage thru conduit and up thru the electrical bay into the cockpit.
about 30 dollars and a few hrs
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:41 PM   #45
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an extra outlet .... i am wired and plumbed for a washer and dryer...
but they are not installed. so the outlet that was hiding in the back of the w/d closet. i relocated to a more convenient spot beside the closet...
i use it to run a small space heater or any other device. its on a dedicated 15 amp circuit as well
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:03 PM   #46
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Community Mod

If two heads are better than one. WOW how many here?
OK let's go. A major source for black streaks is water runoff from dirt and junk on roof. Even if it dosn't rain, A'cond drip contributes to the problem. Not sure about all Damon products but ours has no real gutter. So what about a drip edge rather than running all water to one end or the other in a gutter? An Awning track runs just about full lenght and if no awning there is a open 3/8" dia. tube with 3/16" slot (my eyeball estimate). What if we could find say an aluminum extrusion about an inch wide with 1/4" round along one edge. Just slip it into slot, bottom edge of slot would keep it from rotation/hanging down and instant drip edge. Maybe a little caulk or occasional screw to keep it from flopping around. Another possibility is fender welt as used in older cars, or welt used in marine upholstery. Next week I will try thick vinyl billboard material say 2.5 inches wide folded over a 1/4" rope and pulled thru awning track that should leave about a one inch drip edge for testing. BTW anyone wants to go commercial with this idea, go fer it.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:05 PM   #47
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Mines hidden also. There is a channel between the windshield and the dash. I hard-wired it to the back of the cigar lighter socket.



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Old 11-15-2011, 06:39 AM   #48
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Carefree awning mod

This repair should really be a mod if you havn't had the problem yet. Very weak mechanical design. Probably not necessary but I got OP's permission to link his great post. It is on my to-do list for two reasons: help prevent possible awning damage and fix awning depoly problem on mine. Most of the time I need to HELP it get going on one end during deploy, once it starts, everthing works great. Wall brackets were not quite square so retracted arms slightly bind at top outboard ends. Look at your retracted awning arms and there should be more less equal space on both sides of arms for the full lenght of the wall bracket, but NOT touching. To fix mine I need to adjust wall brackets or shorten awning tube. Don't want to mess with resealing bolts and risk leaks when I can do this fix and solve my problem at the same time. I will report on awning tube length adjustment when I get it done. If you don't want to go thru disassembly process look at last picture for easy way out. Same results but a lot easier.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/c-of...ir-103648.html
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:50 PM   #49
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Kickspace Phase Three

Sorry for delay. RV in shop for almost two weeks.
Phase three: The heater had a built in combination on/off switch and thermostat. But since it was at floor level (hard to reach) and had inconsistent temperature selection/control, I decided to add a wall mount thermostat. Replaced kick space built-in switch/thermostat with 110 AC 12vdc solid state relay (first picture) and ran wire to wall cavity next to existing Carrier wireless. The hard part was crossing hall and getting into bathroom wall cavity. Using sharpened putty knife I removed one piece of door track trim and ceiling wall trim inside bathroom. Beveled top inside corner of door track trim to accommodate wire and drilled hole into bathroom (second picture,) notched bathroom wallboard at top for about 6 inch wire run to wall void (third picture) above desired location. Got lucky at this point: wall framing at top was only ¾ inch thick so I could drill hole and hide it with the 1” trim, reinstalled trim and no wire visible in hall or bathroom. Needed 12 volts for relay and got lucky again: tapped into power for propane detector which was directly under thermostat. With two thermostats (last picture) we can set kickspace for comfort and gas furnace at lower temp for when electric can’t keep up. Also works like auto change over heat and air. Cost: About $50 for thermostat, relay, wire and one day.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:09 AM   #50
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More Dash Power

We need lots of power to support the many 12v devices we use on the road and the dash lighter circuit was being overloaded. So I added a ten circuit fuse block with thirty amp fused and switched connection direct to the battery. The switch is lighted as a reminder and turns everything off when parked. This project included the addition of three dash power outlets. The original dash lighter /power outlet was left as factory wired so we would have one unswitched outlet if needed for cell phone charging etc. So now when we setup camp one switch turns off: rear view camera, video monitor, GPS, TPMS, Toad brakes status indicator, OBD scanner, laptop inverter and remote controlled spotlight. And there is plenty of room and for additional toys I might be adding in the future. Major parts: Lighted switch, ATO/ATC fuse block, handful of assorted fuses, inline fuse holder, 12v power outlets, ten to fifteen feet of 2 conductor 10 gauge stranded wire and a 12 v relay with wired base. Note: the relay could be eliminated if you can find a suitable switch with sufficient current rating or need less than 20 amps. The one I used was only rated at 20 amps DC. Cost: around $65 and about one day
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:13 PM   #51
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litterbox hole

We where trying to figure out where to put the litter box in our outlaw. We figured the best place was under the booth. My father-in-law took off the side, re-enforced the booth and cut a hole in it. Then he put a hinge on it.

We won't get a chance to test it for a few more months, but it seems like the most out of the way location.

Anyone have any other ideas as to where to put it?

(besides at home or outside )
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:35 PM   #52
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Added a tv above the entry door, so the kids would stay seat belted while in motion and not have to turn their heads to watch the tv above the windshieldClick image for larger version

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Old 04-24-2018, 05:45 PM   #53
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Neat idea well done. I'm a new owner of a 2001 Escaper with low miles but knowing years add up. Just waiting until spring to finally arrive to start going over all the systems to ensure happy tripping.
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