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Old 05-08-2014, 03:30 PM   #267
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Does anyone know where your Power Gear leveling control box is mounted?

The PG site says the manufacturer will normally mount them upside down in a waterproof area in the center of the coach.
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:31 PM   #268
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Power Gear short & Eng/Trans ECU problem resolved!!

Hi gent's,
Wanted to give an update of my issues with the Power Gear motor/pump coming on along with my information panel giving Eng/Trans errors.

The problem was the BCC compartment below the driver in front of tire. That compartment is supposed to be water tight, but I kept noticing a small amount of water in the bottom when I would have the problem of the PG motor/pump kicking on in the rain. Found a small 1" square hole on the bottom side (could only see it from under the coach) that the insulation had gone bad and was allowing a small amount of water in. The PG tech told me just a small amount of moisture could cause issues with the PG controller. At the same time, when this motor/pump issue happened this last time, my Info center would give me an error ENG & Trans ECU's no data for >25 secs. It was intermentant and as I drove down the road, every time I hit a hard bump the thing would work then not work the next time I hit a hard bump. It was a connector in that compartment that was not connected well and very possible the root cause of the solenoid to the PG motor/pump to close and allow the motor/pump to run.
Anyway, I connected the connector good, (resolved the Eng/Trans ECU data errors) then sealed that 1" hole plus put weather stripping on the door to prevent any moisture from getting in.

Coach is running great again with no errors.

Now to fix the PG leveling system. The motor/pump staying on for an extended time fried the solenoid (direct short across large post to motor) (on order) and now working to see how fried the motor is. I think the motor fried staying on for an extended time and shorting the motor to the motor casing. I measure the power post on the motor to the ground on the motor housing and get a direct short. Waiting for the PG teck to tell me that is not normal, but my electrical background tells me that is a problem. Getting the PG assemply out doesn't look to be too bad other than draining the fluid and disconnect the fluid and lines. That is going to be the biggest challenge from what i can see. There are only 2 large bolts holding the entire assempbly to the holding bracket on the firewall.

Once I get that repaired, I should be back to 100%.

Hope this can help someone else in the future if needed and I will return to give an update on the PG system once I have it all repaired.

Thanks agian and sorry for the lengthy message..
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:31 PM   #269
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Power Gear motor FRIED!!!

Back again. Finally removed the motor on the Power Gear and man was it fried. The entire inside was melted down.

If your motor starts to run, don't let it run long. They FRY!!!

Think I found the replacement and just waiting on comfirmation to get it on order and I will be getting the Leveling system all back in order.

Kaven
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:35 AM   #270
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Wow...great report! I am gonna look at mine and make sure I dont have that hole...water in there is begging for trouble...
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:58 AM   #271
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Ok, so we picked up our 2012 Astoria this weekend from the dealer. Our first diesel pusher. So excited. Dealer said to always turn off house batterie switch when leaving the unit in storage. We cant figure out how to get the steps to close after we flip the house batterie switch. They usually close automatically with the door. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Laurie
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:52 AM   #272
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Turn the switch off before you open the door, but I never turn my battery switch off never had a problem. In fact we usually leave the coach plugged in and the fridge on. Just how we roll.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:43 PM   #273
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I turn my disconnect off only if my rig is setting for a week or so with no power. Most of the time I do as bear. Leave it on & just plug 110 in. Really important to check the coach batteries once a month for water. Make sure they stay full using distiller water.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:48 PM   #274
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Ok...this has driven me crazy for quite sometime now! The cranking batteries control the steps.

Below is what works for me:

The salesman switch is on the panel to right of the DW's chair...it has "store" on it...

Salesman switch on
Crank bat off
Shut screen door.. Steps close
Reach through the plastic slide thing on the screen door
Turn off salesman switch
The exterior compartment front drivers side Should stop humming

You know you have it right when it quits humming and the stairs want come out when you open the door!

Good luck...I think I got it right above...it takes me several attempts sometimes...then I try and right the procedure down...after some disgust and at least one adult beverage!
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:27 AM   #275
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Astoria not wearing too well

Our 2011 which is really a 2010 has all the cabinetry made of fibre board and paper wrapped with a wood grain finish. This is sort of OK with small doors but with the washing machine doors in the bedroom which are constantly used the continual opening and closing just tears the hinge screws right out. The co-pilot doesn't like to go to sleep with half a washing machine looking at her. I looked at sites offering advice on repairing particle board and was disappointed to learn
that its screw holding capacity was one level above air. Has anyone else had this problem and have any suggestions.
I hope something practical is forthcoming. Then I can share my experience with Goodyear 670RV tires. Ugh!
We really do like our coach but at 3 years old from new it's showing a lot of signs of wear and we are very careful folk.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:11 AM   #276
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Lawestfall....as described above, with house batt power on & steps on, exit coach & close screen door. Reach into the plastic slide & turn off steps & house battery switches. The steps will stay in.

It is important you turn the house batt switch off whenever possible. (When storing) it's the only way to get the light up switches to shut off. I left my house batt switch on during my first year of ownership. The bulbs burned out in all switches in less than a year. The bulb is irreplaceable, so the whole switch must be replaced. If yiu have the residential fridge, it will still operate (as will all 120V accesories)
Good luck, since we have the same coach, feel free to pm me any questions
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:54 AM   #277
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Brit, we have had the same issue. I bought some Locktight epoxy and used long wooden fireplace matches. I coated the matches in the epoxy and crammed as many as possible in the holes and let it dry for 24 hours and is been holding for the past 6 months. I hope this is helpful.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:19 AM   #278
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Thanks Bear I will try that. I have seen a similar suggestion using Bondo. My last resort , if that doesn't work will be to drill out the hole and glue a piece of pre-drilled dowel in the hole. My only worry with that is if the dowel split, it's only 5/16, then I will have worsened the problem. I'll try your idea first.
Does your coach have Goodyear 670 RV tires and are you experiencing any problems?
My right front was wearing the 2nd bead in from the outside edge at an angle while the other beads were fine. My first thought and also that of the Goodyear dealer was alignment but I had that checked and front and back and thrust angle were all OK. There is a lot of similar comment on the web about this problem. I swapped the right front over with rear right and will see what happens. I am also going to replace the Sach shocks with Bilsteins before we head south again this fall. I still think Thor build a decent coach for the price but to meet an acceptable retail price they probable order in the chassis with the basic options.
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:56 AM   #279
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Brit, yes to both tire questions. I did the same as you did. I expect to see the same issue this summer as there had been so much written about the"rivering" issue. So, I plan to replace tires this summer. My tires were manufactured in early 2010. I had very good luck with the Michelins on my previous coach and on my every day drivers, so I will go that route I think. Good luck on the door.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:35 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbear View Post
Brit, yes to both tire questions. I did the same as you did. I expect to see the same issue this summer as there had been so much written about the"rivering" issue. So, I plan to replace tires this summer. My tires were manufactured in early 2010. I had very good luck with the Michelins on my previous coach and on my every day drivers, so I will go that route I think. Good luck on the door.
Bear, I did the match stick and toothpick thing with Bondo today as I had that on hand. I'll let it cure overnight and see what it looks like in the am. I measured and marked the position based on the other door so I hope I have all bases covered. I took the plunge and ordered the Bilstein shocks today. Best price was Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - Edelbrock Automotive Truck Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com in Florida. I'm just being extra caution with all hinges and door stays as particle board is a real PITA. It might be OK with furniture from Wally World but for mobile applications it sucks.
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