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Old 06-11-2014, 03:58 PM   #323
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Quote:
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I would check the low point drain and the valve that allows you to fill fresh water tank from city water hookup. I have that problem once and it was the fill valve that was in the wrong position.
I have both low point drains closed (turned all the way to the right). I also have the fresh water tank set to "city water". I played around with them earlier and it didn't seem to make a difference. Is that how you are setup?

Thank you for the fast response!
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:01 PM   #324
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My unit is in storage now, but as I remember that is how it is set up.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:05 PM   #325
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I think there is a valve that has to be turned to allow the antifreeze to be sucked into the system. I live in Southeast Texas and don't have to winterized so I'm not sure where that valve is located. Jim Estes maybe a better source on that and I bet he chimes in here shortly.
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:30 PM   #326
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Well golly gee! I've been looking at that switch with the light in it for the past 3 years and couldn't figure out what it was. I initially thought that it was a remote turn on for the water heater but that soon proved incorrect. I finally gave up and figured it was some bright designers idea of adding ambient red lighting to the bedroom - dah. That that should put a load on the genset when giving it a work out. I must go tell the co-pilot.
Thanks
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:50 AM   #327
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There is a valve that is on the line between your water tank and the pump...there is a "T" connection there for the line/fitting that goes over to your wetbay for winterizing.

On my 2012...the water pump is on top of the freshwater tank...you cant get to it unless you pull the tank! Steve can tell you about that!

To access the winterize valve I have to go through the bay next to it...remove a big plastic overhead cover...3 X 4 in size...it unscrews to remove....then there is a little porthole you stuck your hand through and manipulate the winterize valve...Terrible design but it is what it is ;-(

My best guess is your pump is not priming...if the winterize valve is not the problem...

It can be quite the ordeal to prime...run your hotwater on all faucets/shower so there is no more air in the line....on city water...open and close your low point drains while still connected to city water...she is air bound somewhere...then try the pump using the bathroom sink...

Keep repeating the process...it should eventually prime...

Let us know if you still cant prime it...
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:27 PM   #328
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Just wanted to share this with you all. Our 2011 Astoria (old style, built in 2010 but titled in 2011) has always tended to wallow like a boat at stop lights and coming off a french curb.The Sachs shocks weren't leaking but didn't do a very good job of damping any body roll. I ordered a set of Bilsteins from shock warehouse in Florida and had them installed last week. What an improvement! No more side to side wallowing and at a stop light the front dips just a little, comes back up and stays firm from there. The ride is noticeably firmer and I feel very much in control in heavy traffic at freeway speeds
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:58 AM   #329
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Did your coach seem to rock alot (before new shocks) when you were parked with jacks down?
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:00 AM   #330
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Not really. There was a bit of movement but generally she was pretty solid when the jacks where down. I always dump my air out of the suspension before levelling. The big difference is handling on the road.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:27 AM   #331
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Good info thanks Brit!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:52 PM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Estes View Post
There is a valve that is on the line between your water tank and the pump...there is a "T" connection there for the line/fitting that goes over to your wetbay for winterizing.

On my 2012...the water pump is on top of the freshwater tank...you cant get to it unless you pull the tank! Steve can tell you about that!

To access the winterize valve I have to go through the bay next to it...remove a big plastic overhead cover...3 X 4 in size...it unscrews to remove....then there is a little porthole you stuck your hand through and manipulate the winterize valve...Terrible design but it is what it is ;-(

My best guess is your pump is not priming...if the winterize valve is not the problem...

It can be quite the ordeal to prime...run your hotwater on all faucets/shower so there is no more air in the line....on city water...open and close your low point drains while still connected to city water...she is air bound somewhere...then try the pump using the bathroom sink...

Keep repeating the process...it should eventually prime...

Let us know if you still cant prime it...
on some of the astorias on the passenger side , behind the small black panel behind the door that hides the water tank, there is a short piece of hose and a valve to allow anti freeze to be sucked up int the lines
maybe it will help
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:52 PM   #333
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towing vehicles

Were shopping for a small suv to pull behind our motorhome. Noticed some can be towed with a dolly and some not. Are there any benefits to a tow dolly versus towing 4 wheels on ground?
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:17 AM   #334
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Motorhome Magazine publish an annual list of autos that can be 'flat towed' I tow a 2011 GMC Terrain and for the last 3 years it has been trouble free. There is a Chev version but I can't remember the model. A buddy of mine has a 2010 Ford Escape and although Ford claimed it was flat towable it has been a disaster. Convenience wise for him but expense wise for Ford . Ford have been good insomuch as they have replaced 2 transmissions at no cost to my chum. Needless to sat the Escape is no longer recommended for flat towing. I think Honda have some models as do Jeep. You have to tell the dealer exactly what you want it for. Personally I don't want a tow dolly as I am somewhat disabled and it would be a PITA. If you are agile and technically savy there are mods you can do to make cars flat towable but you need to find a website that deals with this. Good luck!
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:58 AM   #335
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Towing 4 down is the way to go...I think...

I tow a Chevy Captiva...a Chevy Traverse...and a 2500 Silverado P/U truck...and no I do not work for GMC!

You will get many different opinions... But a dolly is a PITA!

Figure on spending about $3K...for entire setup...tow bar...I use Roadmaster Blackhawk...base plates that will mount to the front of your Toad...3-4 hundred dollars...a signal wiring kit for your Toad...$80 dollars...and a braking system for your Toad...I use the Brake Buddy Vantage...about $1100.00 dollars when it is on sale at Camping World...they can do the install for your base plates and tow wiring...my Chevy dealer mounted the base plates on my Captiva...

I would also recommend a charge wire in your wiring harness so you can use the Astoria to trickle charge your Toad battery when towing...

Jeeps tow great (Cj's and Cherokees) as do Honda CRV's...both very popular...

The dealer will know if you can tow it 4 down...it will also be in the owners manual...and as mentioned before the are annual publications that list all the vehicles that can towed 4 down...check out tow dingy.com...
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:45 AM   #336
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4 down for me. If you have air brakes I would strongly recommend the M & G brake system.
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