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Old 05-08-2016, 01:18 PM   #799
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Wipers

I was able to adjust the wiper arms to stop over lapping the rubber around the bottom on the window. It's been a while, but the arms came loose on the shaft causing them to slip down.
The off position has the shaft resting with the blades in the center of the window & I made sure they were as tight as possible to center window seal, then tightened the arm on the shaft. Fortunately I've not seen any of the streaking problems folks are talking about. My wipers do a great job.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:54 PM   #800
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Originally Posted by Britcanuck View Post
After 5 days of driving 5-6 hours a day we were nearly home. The coach was running smooth and steady no worries. On the 6th day we unhooked while she was warming up and away we went. Less than 2 miles down a flat two lane road at 50 mph a dash alarm sounded and the coolant temperature gauge was touching the red zone. I pulled over and left it running and checked the temperature of the coolant recovery tank and a lower radiator hose. Both were cool. I left it running for about 10 more minutes and there was no change on the coolant gauge-still almost red. Then I turned the motor off and waited about 5 minutes and started up again and the coolant gauge went back to normal so we proceeded with no further incidents that day. The next morning we left our overnight park and just like the previous day the same occurrence happened.
Has anyone else had a similar experience to me. Again, this has only happened twice in 5 years of owning the coach and both times within 10 minutes after starting driving.
Look forward to some good suggestions! Thanks

Here's an update to this problem. Left home on Monday for a few days and got 5 miles down the road when the temp gauge shot up to hot again. I was approaching a scale on the opposite of the road so I moved to the center lane and was about to make the turn and she died on me. The alarm was on and she had just gone into limp mode prior to shut down. In the 10 minute wait before I tried to start again someone in the scale must have realized I was in trouble because within minutes the RCMP arrived with his light show making me feel even more conspicous. It did start again and I limped to a diesel shop in town. I googled 'cummins isb overheating' and got pages of the same problem Apparently between 20 and 40 thousand miles the fan clutch fails. There were many posts with the repair bill being north of 2 grand. There were also posts of reimbursement by Freighliner/Cummins so I'll be writing them when I get my bill.No guarantees but worth a try. This guy tells the story exactly as it is.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/cumm...tc-230056.html
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:27 PM   #801
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Here's an update to this problem. Left home on Monday for a few days and got 5 miles down the road when the temp gauge shot up to hot again. I was approaching a scale on the opposite of the road so I moved to the center lane and was about to make the turn and she died on me. The alarm was on and she had just gone into limp mode prior to shut down. In the 10 minute wait before I tried to start again someone in the scale must have realized I was in trouble because within minutes the RCMP arrived with his light show making me feel even more conspicous. It did start again and I limped to a diesel shop in town. I googled 'cummins isb overheating' and got pages of the same problem Apparently between 20 and 40 thousand miles the fan clutch fails. There were many posts with the repair bill being north of 2 grand. There were also posts of reimbursement by Freighliner/Cummins so I'll be writing them when I get my bill.No guarantees but worth a try. This guy tells the story exactly as it is.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/cumm...tc-230056.html

End of the story was that I wrote a very polite but firm email to Freightliner telling them how disappointed I was and what compensation they could offer.
They wrote
Thank you for your email. The fan clutch is not part of the engine
but put on by Freightliner. The basic chassis warranty is for 3 years or
50,000 miles, whichever comes first. The basic warranty expired 3-30-14,
over 2 years ago. This is part would have fallen under the chassis
warranty, sorry for your issue , but no consideration is given

Sincerely,
***********
FCCC Representative
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:52 PM   #802
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Brit, sorry for your troubles; however, I agree with Freightliner. I understand the frustration but stuff breaks and we have to deal with it.


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Old 05-24-2016, 07:41 AM   #803
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We traded ourAstoria for a 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U. We will miss our Astoria but we also love our new to us Meridian!
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:42 AM   #804
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:07 AM   #805
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Jim, that's a beautiful coach.


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Old 05-30-2016, 12:18 AM   #806
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Not sure if the passenger side does this also cause when it is happening its raining cats and dogs and I have my hands full to try and see whats going on in the road in front of me. My coach a 2006 3595 Astoria. I have changed blades and put Rainex Latitude blades from a local Home Center, Menards they are a new kind of blade that appears more aerodynamic to my eye. They have the correct width and are cross drilled to fit the arms on my coach. I believe I bought 28 inch measuring the old blade. So now it overstrokes but this has been going on for a while, the rubber windshield gasket shows marks from the blades. I thought I would get a shorter blade as this one is wiping the extreem lower part of the windshield that is just showing dashboard and the blackend part of the windshield. So what are the solutions;
1. Shorter blade (what size was the original)
2. Drill lower hole in wiperblade to raise its sweep
3. Adjustment that I can't seem to find or fathom out
4.On our last trip with the new blades installed, it started to rain and everything was going good, rainex treated windshield repelling water, blades stroking on the glass, then a cloud burst and switched to higher speed and they started going off the glass onto the gasket. So what happened? Looked at everything and can find no adjustment, no slack, what I have not done is pull the arms and if they are splined turn it so at rest it is leaning into the center mullion.

I have followed other posts on this problem which is present on all coaches, we might be the fortunate one as I have no slop or play while others have poorly manufactured systems that have to be replaced. So examine what you have going on if you have this problem, size of blades, length of arms, do you have play. If you dont post about your solution then it is not helpfull to the rest of us. Previous post on other forums just died with no solution or resolution of the problem.
Fixed my overstroking today. The wiper arm is mounted to a tapered splined shaft. The wiper arm is not splined and is coated with paint. My wiper shaft had rust clogging the splines, cleaned them with a razor knife and wire brush and sand paper for the worst buildup. Cleaned the inside of the wiper arm hole and coated it all with neversieze and put it back together. Took a couple of trys to get the right setting away from the mullion in the middle of the windshield, had to adjust the other arms length by loosening the 2 #2 pozidrive screws and change the length to keep the blade verticle. Tools required 1/2 wrench, 2 jaw puller, crescent wrench for auxillary arm it is not a metric or inch size wrench, #2 pozidrive screwdriver, stanley knife, sand paper, SS wire brushes, neversieze. Be cautious when you take the arm off as it will fall and it is still attached by the washer hose. I used a bungee cord to hold it to the wiper on the opposite glass so as to not deal with disconnecting the hose. All my problem was the arm slipping on the tapered spline which was corroded.
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:47 AM   #807
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Hello everyone!
I am sooo tired of dealing with the wiper going "over the edge" in my 08 3776. Driving me crazy. I have ordered multiple blades and can't seem to find blades with a shorter length, but with the wide truck connector. Does anyone have a brand and part number, so I can order a pair that works?
Thanks!
Dan
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will be working on the coach this weekend and this is one of my projects. I will post what I find.. :-)

Dan
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:38 AM   #808
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Stepped into Thor last week and found the floor right inside the door to be soft. He is in the shop now and they will be replacing the floor just inside the door. Has anyone had this issue? Trying to find the cause of the moisture.


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Old 08-13-2016, 06:51 AM   #809
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Open up the generator door...look under the dash...see if there is water or rust(particularly inside the 2 light covers in the generator compartment)...if it shows water signs... It will most likely be the windshield gasket...top right (passengers side) is leaking...thats where our leak was...
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:00 AM   #810
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Interesting


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Old 09-02-2016, 12:29 PM   #811
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Replace the slide out seals???

I was treating my slide out seals and noticed that my bedroom slide (AcccuSlide one) has a seal that is cracking and beginning to tear. This seal is a flat glued on one on the side of the coach body, not the push on on the forward slides. Has anyone had to replace their seals? It seems fair easy (famous last words) but any advice would be appreciated.

Does any one have a source for the seals, I see a Steele Rubber Products listed in the FMCA Magazine.

Steve
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:41 PM   #812
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Greetings y'all
I finally got round to weighing 'Da Bus' at all four corner to make sure my tire pressure, were correct. Fronts were pretty close at 5357 and 5225 so they are set OK at 110 psi. Rears were a bit of a surprise.
Driver side 7553 and passenger side 8698. Driver and passenger are same weight before anyone says anything. I can only assume that this difference is attributable to the fact that there are 6 batteries on the passenger side towards the rear wheels plus most of the camping 'stuff' also on passenger side. According to the Toyo RV inflation guide this would mean driver side rears at 80 psi and passenger side 90 psi. I'll put both sides at 90.
Do these weights and pressures jive with your experiences? Thanks
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