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Old 10-02-2016, 11:38 PM   #813
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Brit, that is very close to what I have. I do keep the rears at100.


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Old 10-03-2016, 01:33 PM   #814
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Weight Deltas in the rear

Weighed our 2008 3786 model several years ago just before our Alaska trip and the fronts were (Left/Right) 5200/4800 pounds, near your number. The rears were way off (Left/Right) 8300/9800 pounds. 1500LBS difference!

Passenger's side has the 8 batteries (6 -6V and 2 -12V), 10 Gallon water heater, Washer/Drier combo, kitchen stuff including the stuffed refrig and full pantry, Bedroom dresser packed with stuff, rear storage with the inverter (Magnum 2800) plus supplies in the compartment and more water volume in the water tank because of it's slopped design.

The Driver's side rear compartment had an electrical cord (not heavy), Air intake (not heavy), internal the head board, little table and chairs....

For that trip we were slightly over GVW by 100 pounds, so I drained out about 20 gallons of water.

We now travel much less stuff, half full water unless boon-docking and only food for about a week. I have not reweighed but think the 1500 pound delta is still close for us.

I keep 110 pounds all the way around, thinking a littler more air is better than not enough. Hope I'm right.

Steve
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:48 PM   #815
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I was treating my slide out seals and noticed that my bedroom slide (AcccuSlide one) has a seal that is cracking and beginning to tear. This seal is a flat glued on one on the side of the coach body, not the push on on the forward slides. Has anyone had to replace their seals? It seems fair easy (famous last words) but any advice would be appreciated.

Does any one have a source for the seals, I see a Steele Rubber Products listed in the FMCA Magazine.

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Update, Easy job. I used Steele Rubber Products Part number 70-3709-99. It comes with an adhesive tape. "L" bracket on top of the seal with four screws needs to be removed, pull off the old seal, scrap off the old adhesive, cleanes with mineral sprite and alcohol. Starting at the top pull off a little of the read backing tape and position under the top seal. Reinstall the "L" bracket and continue down the side. The cable for the slide were not positioned correctly, the reason for the cable breaking several years ago. The cable actually filed a notch to align itself. I used a file to give it a little more room and checked by running the slide in and out several times.... another story.

Back to the cables, I used a my dikes to cut a small channel and hole for the cable. The channel slops down and is sealed when the adhesive was pressed.

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Old 10-09-2016, 11:08 PM   #816
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Hot water heater bypass valves

Thanks to those who replied to my weight question. Got the tires at 110 front 95 rear and I'll try it on the highway.
For the first time since I bought my 2010 I'm going to have to winterize it. I found the anti -freeze syphon tube in the pump area on top of the fresh tank but I can't find the bypass valve for the hot water heater. There is a panel below the W/D cabinet in the bedroom about a foot square that has plugs in each corner and I presume a screw underneath. Before I pry the plugs out and probably split one is this how you reach the bypass valve?
Thanks
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:55 AM   #817
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In my 2011...drivers side...pass through space right before the wet bay is a inside door held on with two rubber straps. The hot water heater is located in this space. There are 3 valves in there...two get closed and one gets opened. Take the drain plug out of your water heater...turn city water valve on while hooked up to a water source...if water runs in the tank...you will have to keep messing with the 3 valves in there...sorry I cant remember which way the valves are positioned...if u look at the water line flow u can also figure it out!
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:21 AM   #818
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Jim, how is the new coach? I hope that you are enjoying it.


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Old 10-11-2016, 11:50 AM   #819
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Love it! The usual stuff needs fixing/mending/repaired :-) Had it up in the mountains last week...the 380 has a bit more power...handled the hills well.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-11-2016, 12:47 PM   #820
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Brit - pry the plugs - that is were my hot water heater is as well as all the bypass valves just below the w/d in main bedroom
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:43 PM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britcanuck View Post
Thanks to those who replied to my weight question. Got the tires at 110 front 95 rear and I'll try it on the highway.
For the first time since I bought my 2010 I'm going to have to winterize it. I found the anti -freeze syphon tube in the pump area on top of the fresh tank but I can't find the bypass valve for the hot water heater. There is a panel below the W/D cabinet in the bedroom about a foot square that has plugs in each corner and I presume a screw underneath. Before I pry the plugs out and probably split one is this how you reach the bypass valve?
Thanks
Unscew the four screws. Remove the panel. You should see three shut off valves. The manual tells the position of the valves (basically tune each to the other position).

I drain the hot water tank, the fresh water tank, open the two low point drain valves and blow out the waterlines. Blow out the lines at about 30 psi with all faucet open...including the outside shower.

I also draw antifreese into the water pump and those lines. In the 8 years doing this we have never had a problem....but we also rarely freeze for more than a few hours.

What dewinterizine I feed seven gallons of vinegar into the hot water heater and run the heater overnight before redraining and filling.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:44 PM   #822
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I have a 2007 Astoria , can someone tell me where the bedroom slide out motor is located? One of the two bedroom slides are working but the other does nothing at all. Have not had any luck finding motor. Thanks!
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:55 PM   #823
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If your slides are Accuslides (Cables to pull in and out) then the motors are behind the two top panels along the inner walls. Our panels were mounted using brads. I have replaced the brads with"T-nuts", screws and little wood finishing plugs stained to match the trim.

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ac...ice-manual.pdf is the location of the service manual that shows the layout.

We have had a cable start to come-apart and the slide would not work. Problem was the alignment of the hole through the metal frame. The cable slowly flied the frame as it went in and out. Our RV tech made the hole larger and the problem "seems" to have not resurfaced.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:19 AM   #824
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Thank you so much ! Got to the motor, now to find out a way to test to see if that's the culprit...thanks again!
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:29 AM   #825
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My bedroom slide motor is grinding a bit and the slideout does have the cable on either side about a foot from the bottom. I can't quite figure from what Steve said about a panel either side covering the motor(s). My slide has 3 cabinets across the width at the top and a fluted wood molding down each side to the night stand. There doesn't seem to be any access at floor level to get to the motor. My bus is a 2010. Can I get a bit more direction please. Oh, and thanks for directions to water heater bypass. Found and job done.
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:36 PM   #826
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Brit,
In our bus the slide motors are above the cabinets. I'll try to get out to the motorhome later today and take a few pictures. Pictures are always better!
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