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Old 06-11-2019, 09:10 PM   #995
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What does your inverter power?

I just got done replacing the original, non functional, Xantrex 1800watt with a Xantrex 2000watt pure sine wave. Thought it would be a direct replacement but the communication cable on the new one has a 6 wire while the coach has a 4 wire cable installed. The mounting holes for the new unit were different as well. I can work around those issues for the most part.

My real question is what outlets and appliances is the inverter wired to power from the factory? My owners manual claims the inverter will power all the outlets, TVs, A/V, and the microwave. As far as I can tell my inverter is only giving power to two of three TVs, the A/V, and only three outlets, no microwave. Am I missing something? Anybody have info on how their Astorias are wired with the inverter? Mine is a 2008. Can it be rewired to power the microwave from behind the breaker panel or is it more complicated than that? Any help for a newbie like me is greatly appreciated!
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:34 PM   #996
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Hi Jeff. On our 2008 Astoria 3786 the inverter only powered the TVs (living room and bedroom), A/V cabinet above the passenger set, the 110 outlet next to the passenger seat.

We didn’t like that setup, we wanted to run the refrig, microwave and all 110 outlets off the inverter. Five years ago we up graded to a Magnum 2800W inverter when we put solar on the roof. We added a subpanel to accomplish that and did add a new 20Amp outlet, home-run to the 50Amp panel, for an electric heater. There were 2 20amp breakers un-wired just sitting there which has alway been a little scary to me.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:45 PM   #997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carel View Post
Hi all,
Does anyone has the partnumbers for the serpentinebelt, belttensioner and ijler pulley for the Damon Astoria 3772 from 2008.
I live in europe and want to order them in the usa.
Karel
You can call freightliner 1 800-385-4357 and give them your vin and theyíll tell you the part number. I normally use their 24/7 direct app and email them. Iíve emailed in the night before and have received a call to clarify my question. Good service.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:29 AM   #998
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Hi Jeff. On our 2008 Astoria 3786 the inverter only powered the TVs (living room and bedroom), A/V cabinet above the passenger set, the 110 outlet next to the passenger seat.

We didn’t like that setup, we wanted to run the refrig, microwave and all 110 outlets off the inverter. Five years ago we up graded to a Magnum 2800W inverter when we put solar on the roof. We added a subpanel to accomplish that and did add a new 20Amp outlet, home-run to the 50Amp panel, for an electric heater. There were 2 20amp breakers un-wired just sitting there which has alway been a little scary to me.
Thanks for the info Steve! Good to know my inverter is functioning/powering what it was supposed to from the factory. In a moment of clarity, I realized the input and output wires for the inverter are only rated 15A so I should probably only run one breaker/circuit through it and forget about the microwave for now. Love your setup though. We would probably do something similar down the road if we decide to make this our forever coach.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:28 PM   #999
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Decided to order new covers from Flexsteel to replace the awful Natures Alternative stuff that was peeling off. I'm very pleased with the results. Flexsteel was great to work with. $400 per cover in Ultra Leather and $40 per adjustable armrest. Not too bad compared to buying new or having them redone locally.
They even did the original "Astoria" embroidery at no extra cost!
JZack - i desperately need this for my two front seats and now sofa sleeper which are all original from 2008 - do you have more info on contact numbers and process to get this done. Seems much more economical to do it this way rather than replacing entire seats
dtb
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:39 AM   #1000
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Quote:
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JZack - i desperately need this for my two front seats and now sofa sleeper which are all original from 2008 - do you have more info on contact numbers and process to get this done. Seems much more economical to do it this way rather than replacing entire seats
dtb
Lisa Bauer was my contact-

LBauer@flexsteel.com

RV Customer Service Advisor
Flexsteel Industries, Inc.

T: 563.585.8356 | F: 563.583.2712
A: 501 Seippel Rd. | Dubuque, IA 52002
www.flexsteel.com

This was definitely the best improvement I've done to our RV. It is about 2-3 hours of labor per seat to remove the old covers and install the new ones. Anyone with modest mechanical skills could easily handle this though. Look for your build tags tucked in the springs under your seats. Lisa will need to see those. You will need a square tip screw driver to remove the 8 point screws on the skirt, a pick, and needle nose pliers to remove the old hog-rings. A sharp box cutter to cut holes for the seat controls too. I also made the job much easier by using zip-ties instead of the hog-rings to hold the new covers in place. Good luck!
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Old 07-01-2019, 11:04 PM   #1001
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A summer not to remember. Driving from Memphis to Nashville a car passed and kicked up a rock. Within minutes we had a crack 3 feet long. When online to Progressive (our insurance company) and minutes later a call from Safelite and passed through to Duncan Systems (part of LCI corp). We changed our plans and drove to Elkhart where the windshield was in stock (it was sort of on our way). Duncan systems uses Gerber as the installer. An over night In their lot ( 50A + Water provided) we were taken care of. Good service from all and the windshield was in stock, they had three!

Then the Solar Controller stopped working.

And now the topper on the drivers rear slide is preventing the slide from extending! It tries to ride up and over the trim! Can’t figure that one out.



Solar I can live without for the next several months but the slide needs to be fixed.

I’m not a drinker but do I ever need a drink and summer is just starting.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:57 PM   #1002
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I have found my People! Damon Astoria Pacific '08 here

Newby here! Have been looking all over this site for a couple months. So glad I found this specific forum. I must not be using the 'search' correctly, or I would have found this one sooner. haha Luckily, I have had most of our questions answered by web searching and good ole Google.
Our current issue is the wind shield wipers. Either they are hanging down to far below the wind sheild or they flop off the side when working. Might totally stop during a rain storm. Getting ready to just order a new wiper motor and hope this takes care of it. Has anyone else had this issue?
With the awning out, how and where do you put up lights?
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Old 09-01-2019, 06:41 PM   #1003
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Wipers

I received a recall from Thor about 4 years ago to replace the breaker for the wipers. The breaker strength had to be increased. That on its own wont fix your wiper problem but it's something you should do as you don't want them quitting in a downpour. I cant find my recall notice but Thor customer service should be able to give you the details
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:31 PM   #1004
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Wiper Fixes

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuitaRN View Post
Our current issue is the wind shield wipers. Either they are hanging down to far below the wind sheild or they flop off the side when working. Might totally stop during a rain storm. Getting ready to just order a new wiper motor and hope this takes care of it. Has anyone else had this issue?
Welcome aboard!

Oh boy have I had wiper issues too. Fortunately I've been able to get mine working perfectly after much trial/error. Here are some things to check-

1) Make sure you have a working 20A fuse/breaker. This is located in the compartment just ahead of the driver side front tire.
2) Check, clean, and adjust where the wiper arms are mounted on the splines. They can be popped off with a simple two jaw puller.
3) Make sure the small torque-arm is securely mounted to the splined wiper motor shaft. (Mine was loose.)
4) Check the wiper motor mounting bracket for play/looseness. If you can grab the motor and move it even a little bit, it NEEDS to be tightened. The slightest bit of play will cause the wipers to over-stroke.

Number 4 is the biggy and made a huge difference for my wiper performance. Pay attention to the back side of the bracket above the motor. Mine was never fastened at the factory. Yep, 4 to 5 holes with no fasteners in them!
Think that's it. Good luck!
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:03 PM   #1005
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Over the air TV antenna coaxial cable has deteriorated

Hi all, our coax cable for the roof over the air antenna is showing signs of deterioration, 11 years of sun, rain and hot to cold temps, seems like a reasonable life for the cable. Some of the shielding is showing through. In the next few weeks Iíll try to install a new cable.

Has anyone replaced their cable? Is there a coax union where the cable enters the roof? Is it easy to access? The coax inside is black and the outside coax is gray, so it must have a unionsomewhere.

Can standard black coax be used a a replacement or must it be gray? (UV protected?)

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Steve
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:17 AM   #1006
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Hi Steve,

I replaced my OTA antenna and cable. On my RV, I recall there being a coupling just below the roof line where the grey cable was attached, but my grey cable runs into the splitter box cabinet. Just make sure to seal everything up real well.
Iím no expert on the different cables, but I prefer to use the grey outside as it does seem to be a better cable from the elements.
Not sure how much this will help.
Good luck.
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:34 PM   #1007
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Where's the fuse?

Hi all
I just got a new propane/co detector for my DA 3772 as the existing had reached it's expiry. When I disconnected the old one I realized that there was no power in the source wires. I have checked all the fuses in the bedroom and the battery center as well as the small panel in the shore power locker and I can't locate the 15 amp fuse that is supposed to protect the detector circuit. Is there anyone who has done this before and knows where the fuse is? I would certainly appreciate knowing where it is.

On a totally different matter our toad is a 2011 GMC Terrain the sister of the Chev Equinnox. Both SUV's touted by GM as flat towable. Mine had 86000 KMs on it and about 20,000 of those had be towed when the transmission failed. The GM dealer opened it up and a bearing had gone as well as the pump. The fluid was black with minute metal particles in it. I spoke with a GM Customer Satisfaction Ambassador about the failure of the transmission at such a low mileage but as expected the answer was tough luck.
I had the transmission replaced for north of 6 grand as I was reluctant to buy a new car of anyone else's model that was touted a flat towable
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:34 AM   #1008
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Quote:
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Hi all
I just got a new propane/co detector for my DA 3772 as the existing had reached it's expiry. When I disconnected the old one I realized that there was no power in the source wires. I have checked all the fuses in the bedroom and the battery center as well as the small panel in the shore power locker and I can't locate the 15 amp fuse that is supposed to protect the detector circuit. Is there anyone who has done this before and knows where the fuse is? I would certainly appreciate knowing where it is.
If this is the propane detector mounted below the fridge like ours, there is an inline, blade type fuse located in the wiring behind the kick panel.

Sorry about the tranny. Makes one wonder how much real world testing the manufacturers actually do to certify a vehicle as four down towable.
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