Is there a group of Astoria Owners?

[Jzack]

Originally Posted by DBenson

2008 Damon Astoria with 52,000 miles and had it in a truck shop for oil change and inspection. They mentioned my ADL Rear suspension is wearing and needs replaced $6000.... Also was recommend Neway front king pins need replaced $1800

I think i will take it to a freightliner shop to get a second look.....has anyone dealt with these two items and is it really time to replace ??

David Benson

Good idea to get a second opinion on that. Those items should last the life of the coach. Maybe the kingpins were never lubed? I have heard of the bell crank wearing prematurely on the Freightliner chassis though.

[Raymond963]

We made our first ever RV trip a short one (Sunday and Monday nights) to Starved Rock State Park Campground near Utica, IL; about 1.5 hours from home. The campground was nice, if a little run-down looking; probably due to the pandemic. The campground only has electricity at its sites, no water or sewer connections but has potable water hydrants in several places. There are a couple of toilet/shower houses, and some port-a-potties. Cellular service (Sprint) was up and down the whole time. We were on a 50-amp site.

We had our 2011 Astoria 40KT de-winterized at the dealer where we store it prior to picking it up and had planned to sanitize at the campground.

On arrival at the campground, we filled the fresh water tank and drove to the site, got the coach leveled, connected the 50-amp cable and powered-up, then ran out the slides. Air conditioning had operated perfectly both on the generator and on shore power. We wanted to test everything while I went about sanitizing and all was going great until we tried to get the water running to clear the air from the lines.

The sinks and shower would run water for about 2 seconds, then blow bubbles and air for about 5 seconds, then do water again for a couple seconds, repeating over and over. I checked the valves in the wet bay and they were all in their proper positions, according to the instructions on the panel. The coach manual is mostly generic and pretty useless for the plumbing.

I noticed that the panel's instructions kept referring to valve(s) on the "door side" but couldn't figure out what that meant. What door? I crawled into the bay behind the water heater and found a panel (door?) there that was held shut by two rubber straps, sort of like what holds a Jeep hood down. There were some valves in there and I tried all configurations for those, finally leaving them in the configuration that I found them in. I still didn't think that was what they meant by "door side" so I went searching around the opposite end of the water tank. I guessed that "door side" meant "curb side" as in where the coach's door is...?

Finding no valves on the fill panel, and nothing in the adjacent bays, I removed the screws that secured the fill panel in place and found the water pump with two more valves near the front, curb side corner of the top of the tank. Following the lines, one went from a tee connector right before the pump to the bottom rear corner of the tank (the supply line). One of the other tee connections went to the pump and the last one went to a line heading directly towards the wet bay. (I surmise that one goes to the "power fill" port...?) The output of the pump also went towards the wet bay.

Of course, one couldn't reach through the narrow crack at the top of the tank, but I noted a round access hole with a cover that is similar to where the sewer hose goes out the bottom of the wet bay, on the panel towards the front of the coach. Accessing that hole required the removal of the 'ceiling' panel in the adjacent bay and blindly sticking my arm through to find the valves by feel. Seriously? Who designs this stuff? I'm guessing some MIT graduate who hasn't ever used an RV. I'd like to meet the person to share a few words. (At the time that I figured it out, I might have wanted to share a few knuckles! LOL) Changing the pump would likely be a real fun task...

I turned the first valve and went inside to try running some water; no change. I left the pump running and went back to turn the other valve. The pump sound instantly changed to a deeper throbbing noise and I went inside to find that all the taps were running. After some rejoicing and pushing all of the air out of the system (both hot and cold lines) we had good water pressure so I turned on the water heater to see if that worked.

After giving the water heater some time, I ran the hot water and (success!) got hot water from the tap...for about 3 seconds before it went cold again. I went to the other sink and got the same result. Back to the first sink and it did it again...? At this point, I gave up. It was about to get dark, we hadn't even had dinner, and I hadn't even gotten to the whole sanitizing thing. Fortunately, the campground shower was nice and we at least had water for the toilet.

Our first time dumping tanks went very well (no Robin Williams moments) but we were unable to flush the black tank because there wasn't a suitable connection at the dump station. We'll do that when we go again.

We also had a problem getting the AC units to operate off the generator on the way back to storage. It was nearly 90-degrees outside and the dash air was not cold at all; it wouldn't have been able to cool behind us for our grandson if it even was cool. The AC had worked fine off the generator on the way to the campground but wouldn't work after having been on shore power. I'm wondering if there is a problem with the transfer switch or something has tripped on the generator. The dealer will check both out for us.

At least it cooled-down for the final 30 minutes of the return trip as we drove through a lovely storm. The winds were in the 40MPH range with higher gusts and it rained so hard that I (and most of the trucks around us) had to slow down to 40 on the interstate with flashers going.

When we took the coach back to the dealer/storage, I asked them to check out a few things, including the water heater issue. The lady at the service counter suggested that the valves on the rear of the water heater may not have been correctly set. Go figure.

We're planning to go again soon, after the dealer takes care of a few things.

[Jzack]

Your hot water is getting mixed with the cold somewhere. Most likely at a shower head (check outdoor shower too) with an on/off switch. What happens is someone opens the hot and cold water valves for the shower, then when finished they turn off the water with the on/off switch on the head but never shuts the main hot/cold water valves off allowing them to mix in your plumbing.

[Raymond963]

Originally Posted by Jzack

Your hot water is getting mixed with the cold somewhere. Most likely at a shower head (check outdoor shower too) with an on/off switch. What happens is someone opens the hot and cold water valves for the shower, then when finished they turn off the water with the on/off switch on the head but never shuts the main hot/cold water valves off allowing them to mix in your plumbing.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm pretty sure we had them all off. but I had been messing with everything available. There were what I assume to be the regular water heater bypass valves on the wet bay panel, but there are also another set of valves on the rear of the water heater that are not labeled at all. I never took the time to trace the entire system and it could also be one of those, as was suggested by the dealer service person.

They're going to take a peek at it along with a few other things and let me know.

[Britcanuck]

Hi all
I haven't posted for a while but I am glad to see that the site is alive and well used. I have a head scratcher that I'm hoping someone can enlighten me on.
It's unlikely that we Canadians will be able to buy health insurance to visit the sunny south this winter so storing the Astoria indoors for the duration is in the cards. I parked my coach last year for 4 months under cover at Loves near Las Vegas. When I picked it up the house batteries were completely dead. On the passenger side switch panel as you enter there is a Store/Use toggle switch which I put in the store position. Since getting home I have tried the switch when not on shore power and it appears not to do anything. If I put some lights on and push store switch the lights stay on. This is not what I was expecting.
My coach is a 2009 but I think the switch panel is common to several model years. The battery isolation switch in the battery compartment is (I am told) only to isolated the chassis batteries. It was turned off during the storage period and she started fine. Just no house power. If any owners have figured this out please let me know. Many thanks

[Jzack]

I have an 08' Astoria with the same panel in the stairwell. When I hit the "store" setting, there is a red LED that will slowly fade out letting me know the switch worked. Sometimes I have to hold it a second or two. I haven't had an issue with it so sorry I'm not much help other than this. I've heard the battery disconnect should be used for only a few weeks, any longer (months) and your batteries will eventually go dead.

[gsf35099]

My 2005 has the same disconnect and it kills the 12v to the coach. Inside as well. My disconnect has always been loud enough I can hear it open and close when I push the button. Plus I hear my radio beep shutting down.
That said, batteries still lose power as they sit with zero draw. Depending on age and condition, they can be dead in a matter of months easily.
If the coach is going to sit more than 3-4 months not plugged in, I recommend pulling the batteries and taking them somewhere they can be put on a trickle charge.
I think you got lucky on the chassis batteries and it started.

[Britcanuck]

Thanks for the the imput from Jzack and GSF35099. Problem is a bad switch.
Put a multi meter on it and no continuity. Caused another problem by removing the switch panel in the stairwell. I gingerly pulled it out and there is very little wire to get it out more that inch and a half. In doing so the 3 wires jumped of the step switch at the bottom of the bank. I slid them back on in the order I though they had been in and they just slid on and off again. Easy to crimp them up a bit but the order I thought was right wasn't. Tried all combinations and can't get it right. Step light won't come on so steps dont retract when door closes.7.5 amp fuse is OK. Steps do retract when ignition turned on. 25 amp motor fuse is OK. The connections are two whites and two wires together. Does anyone know the correct wiring order or can post a picture of theirs. Its the bottom switch in the banks.
Thanks

[Jzack]

I would used your multi-meter to find the hot wire. Put that wire on one side of the switch, all other wires on the other side. That's what I would try at least. My rig has an aftermarket switch that I haven't looked at yet but I could take a peak if you need more help.

[Britcanuck]

Originally Posted by Jzack

I would used your multi-meter to find the hot wire. Put that wire on one side of the switch, all other wires on the other side. That's what I would try at least. My rig has an aftermarket switch that I haven't looked at yet but I could take a peak if you need more help.

Of course that makes perfect sense. When I initially tried to find the hot I couldn't. Then the light went on that the wires falling off the switch probably shorted and blew the fuse. In the manual schematics there is a fuse marked as step switch and yup it was blown. Replaced it did exactly the same as what you had suggested and problem solved.

[Britcanuck]

Does anyone know where the battery disconnect relay (not switch) is and is it the relay for the chassis batteries or the house batteries. It's shown on the BCC schematic but I cant find it. I thought I had found it in the panel on the back wall of the compartment under the driver but none of the relays in there say battery disconnect. I don't see it in the BCC panel on the right side wall of same compartment.
Thanks:

[Britcanuck]

I seem to be having a summer of PITA electrical problems. I have had my 2010 3772 from new and nobody has messed with the electrics. With the help of other contributors I am successfully working my way through these little problems. The one that has me stumped is the LP/CO detector. I replaced it due to age and discovered that there was no power to it. According to the panel in the bedroom it is #1 15 amp fuse labelled LP detec. Pretty convincing eh. The fuse is OK and the continuity of fuse checks out just as a double check. I joined the two wire at the outlet together and removed the fuse and did a continuity check across the fuse holder contacts but did not show continuity. I don't believe I have had vermin problem but does that test indicate a broken wire?(somewhere).I am out of ideas but read that someone else with same problem different brand of RV did a reset on the GFI outlets and solved the problem. I will try that tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath. There must be a smarter owner that me out there - help please!

[gsf35099]

Hey brit,
Don’t think you’ll get continuity at the fuse block. Think of the loop from a 12v battery where you can’t ohm a battery.
I would think you could measure across the fuse block with the fuse out and you should get 12v. If not you have a break in the circuit. If no power, I would try and find a battery ground and test each side of the fuse spot. If nothing, find 12v another fuse that is passing power & see if you can get 12v at one side of the lp fuse block. I don’t know if the fuse block is - or +. Hopefully this makes senses and will maybe help.

[Jzack]

My LP detector had a blade style (automotive) fuse wired in-line. It was hidden behind the kick panel where it was mounted, below the fridge. Maybe yours does too?