Is there a group of Astoria Owners?

[Britcanuck]

Originally Posted by gsf35099

Hey brit,
Don’t think you’ll get continuity at the fuse block. Think of the loop from a 12v battery where you can’t ohm a battery.
I would think you could measure across the fuse block with the fuse out and you should get 12v. If not you have a break in the circuit. If no power, I would try and find a battery ground and test each side of the fuse spot. If nothing, find 12v another fuse that is passing power & see if you can get 12v at one side of the lp fuse block. I don’t know if the fuse block is - or +. Hopefully this makes senses and will maybe help.

Hi GSF
Based on your suggestions I joined the two wires that would connect the LPG detector together and removed the fuse and measured across the fuse holder.
No voltage shown. Digital MM was set on 20v DC and read 0.00. Fired up the generator to put A/C on as it was 99f in coach. With the generator running the MM now measured .19>.20 same settings. Seems to indicate a broken wire somewhere. Will remove fuse block and make sure nothing has come detached on backside. After that I'm getting above my pay scale for electronic diagnostics. Interestingly the chassis battery is dropping .2 volts overnight if I don't use disconnect switch. last night went from 12.9 to 12.7 and so on until she wont start. That's a lot of phantom draw so I 'm wondering if the LP detector circuit is responsible. Other than looking for a loose wire on the back of the fuse block I'm not sure what I can do next other than buy a battery operated alarm and use that instead. Not really the answer though. Thanks for your ideas

[gsf35099]

Hi Brit,
Electrical problems can be difficult but if you think of it like trying to get water running through a hose it can really help.
Where is the fuse panel located that you’re measuring?
I’ll do a little checking on my RV to get some references for you to measure.

As for the chassis batteries, that drop is normal and I think it’s the radio that pulls the power. I think the lp detector is connected to the coach batteries.
I have to either leave my rig plugged in or disconnect the batteries or they will drain and not have enough to start as well. Just the nature of the beast with batteries that are not being charged.

[Britcanuck]

Originally Posted by gsf35099

Hi Brit,
Electrical problems can be difficult but if you think of it like trying to get water running through a hose it can really help.
Where is the fuse panel located that you’re measuring?
I’ll do a little checking on my RV to get some references for you to measure.

As for the chassis batteries, that drop is normal and I think it’s the radio that pulls the power. I think the lp detector is connected to the coach batteries.
I have to either leave my rig plugged in or disconnect the batteries or they will drain and not have enough to start as well. Just the nature of the beast with batteries that are not being charged.

Cheers GSF. The panel that I am working with is in the bedroom slide below the closet.. It's referred to in the manual as the house panel 50amp . It has the 120v breakers and the 12v house fuse panel on it. As i mentioned earlier the #1 12 v fuse is labelled LPG Det so I'm assuming that's the one for the detector as everything else is well labelled. My first thought is that there is no logical reason for a wire break which why I will remove the 12 volt fuse panel to see if something has come adrift on the connections. A friend of mine with a Winnebago has a mouse attack in his wiring and it it took months to detect all 'chew thrus' from the uninvited guests and only got his rig back to 'acceptable' for further use. I don't think that I have that problem. I'll be back in there tomorrow if the temp drops below 90f
Thanks

[gsf35099]

Hi brit,
I’ve got a crazy next few days getting caught back up with work as the Mrs & I just returned from Sturgis. 👍😎.
I’ll try and get step in the coach with my meter and measure some points on the fuse block.
My panel is located below cabinets in the center hall just before entering the bedroom. Same 50 amp with a row of 12v fuses.
My 12v fuses have an led beside each and should light up if a fuse is bad. I will have to unplug a fuse and see if that works. If yours has the same, do the leds light up when you remove a fuse?
Something that really helps to keep mice out is dryer sheets. Sounds crazy, but the don’t like the smell.

[gsf35099]

Hi brit,
As I expected, when the fuse burns out (simulate by removing) the red led beside the fuse lights up and you should read ~12.8v across the fuse slot.
If there is no voltage at the fuse slot, then there is a break in the power somewhere.
I’ve attached a pic showing the led light up if a fuse is bad.

[Britcanuck]

Originally Posted by gsf35099

Hi brit,
As I expected, when the fuse burns out (simulate by removing) the red led beside the fuse lights up and you should read ~12.8v across the fuse slot.
If there is no voltage at the fuse slot, then there is a break in the power somewhere.
I’ve attached a pic showing the led light up if a fuse is bad.

Thanks GSF. Your panel looks the same a.s mine with the fault indicating LED
Hope you had a great time in Sturgis. A friend of mine from CA rode up there for the rally. I haven't taken the panel out yet as it's been to darned hot here and the coach has been 100+ inside. Now we are surrounded by wildfires and the air quality is so bad it may be a while before I tackle the problem again. WA has declared a state of emergency and their smoke is all blowing our way. If I can convince myself that I have a break in a wire somewhere in a loom I will probably settle for a battery operated alarm although that would not be my preferred choice. A far as maintaining a full charge in the chassis batteries Go Power has a new controller available that will charge two separate battery banks from your solar panels. The second outlet is subordinate to the primary so it only charges chassis batteries when house ones are full. It's model https://gpelectric.com/products/30-a...ler-bluetooth/
I will update when I make my next discovery - Cheers

[gsf35099]

Thanks for the info brit and stay safe. Those fires on the west coast are crazy bad again.
Completely understand about the heat as I’m in central Texas where it’s been 113 a few days and most 100+.
I built a garage ~5 years ago that is climate controlled that I park our RV, so I’ve gotten spoiled.

[Raymond963]

We have an issue with the sewer hose on our 2011 Astoria 40KT.

When I dump the air bag suspension and level the coach, the sewer hose is within an inch or two of the ground after it exits the bottom of the water bay. This is okay on the (apparently rare) occasion when the campground sewer connection is lower than the surface that the coach is parked on. However, as is usually the case, when the connection point is slightly (or more) higher than the parking pad I have to do a hose-lifting dance to get the substantial amount of remaining gray tank fluid out of the hose after dumping. I am concerned that this stresses the hose and may cause a failure of the hose or a fitting.

What have others done in this situation?

I have considered:

1. Leaving the airbags inflated.
Is this safe/okay? May provide an extra 6 inches or so.

2. Placing blocks under all wheels and jacks.
This would take up extra storage space/weight while only providing 3-4 extra inches.

3. Installing a second hose hatch on the side of the tub at the bottom of the water bay.
I might be able to cobble something together to provide a hatch that is sealed when not in use and adds an extra 6-8 inches of height.

4. Modifying the piping from the gray and black tanks.
Seems expensive and difficult.

5. Combinations of the above...

Thanks,

Ray

[Jzack]

Raymond-
I wouldn't level the coach with the air bags inflated, even with the engine off they would continue to try to maintain ride height and possibly overstretch and/or overinflate. Your jacks could over extend also. Unless you could rig up some sort of pump it seems the "hose dance" is your only option. Sewer hoses and parts are cheap and plentiful. Our Astoria is the same way. Just don't forget to manually empty the hose (hose dance) or you will get a big mess when you dis-connect it like I did on our last trip!

[rscottkelley]

I am looking at a 2011 Damon Astoria 40KT. I am not seeing a lot of reviews online. I'm sure I could read the 50+ pages in this thread but...any pros or cons to this over other brands. I'm also looking at a 2013 Tiffin. Would you buy an Astoria again?

[dsbear]

I started this thread and We had a 2011 Astoria. It was an awesome coach. Very few issues and the ones it had were minor. Feel free to call me 806-438-3048. We would buy another if finances permitted.

[dsbear]

Originally Posted by Raymond963

We have an issue with the sewer hose on our 2011 Astoria 40KT.

When I dump the air bag suspension and level the coach, the sewer hose is within an inch or two of the ground after it exits the bottom of the water bay. This is okay on the (apparently rare) occasion when the campground sewer connection is lower than the surface that the coach is parked on. However, as is usually the case, when the connection point is slightly (or more) higher than the parking pad I have to do a hose-lifting dance to get the substantial amount of remaining gray tank fluid out of the hose after dumping. I am concerned that this stresses the hose and may cause a failure of the hose or a fitting.

What have others done in this situation?

I have considered:

1. Leaving the airbags inflated.
Is this safe/okay? May provide an extra 6 inches or so.

2. Placing blocks under all wheels and jacks.
This would take up extra storage space/weight while only providing 3-4 extra inches.

3. Installing a second hose hatch on the side of the tub at the bottom of the water bay.
I might be able to cobble something together to provide a hatch that is sealed when not in use and adds an extra 6-8 inches of height.

4. Modifying the piping from the gray and black tanks.
Seems expensive and difficult.

5. Combinations of the above...

Thanks,

Ray

Ray ,

If you inflate the bags prior to final dump at the campsite it will help tremendously.

[fagnaml]

rscott --

Welcome to the forum! There are many great forum members willing to provide help anytime!

My previous coach (my first ever motorhome) was a 2007 Damon Astoria 3774 which was a great coach with very few problems. The reason I traded for my current coach a year ago was the vinyl graphics on the Astoria had faded, dried-out and cracked even though it was in covered storage. The cost to remove the vinyl graphics and re-paint didn't make sense given current market value for a 2007 model motorhome.

Prior to 2008, Damon was a wholly owned, but stand-alone subsidiary of Thor and manufactured good quality coaches. In 2009'ish Thor fully absorbed Damon to form what is now Thor Industries (hence why the 2011 Astoria carries the Thor name). The sales brochure for a 2011 Astoria shows the 40kt floor plan is very similar to the 3774 floor plan I had -- only longer! --> (https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2...Literature.pdf)

The 40kt floor plan is fantastic and is the floor plan type my wife and I always look for. the amenities in the 40KT are also very similar to the 3774. If you are looking for your first ever coach, the 2011 Astoria 40KT would be a great choice.

Finally, for whatever reasons after Thor fully integrated Damon into its business, the Astoria name was retired. Thor somewhat resurrected the name and fully resurrected the Astoria floor plans a three years ago with their Aria models.

Hope this info helps!

[Britcanuck]

Just noticed something scary on the roof of my 2010 DA. On the curved part of the roof where it wraps to the awning rail are a series of small bumps every few inches. Looks like screws or other fasteners starting to back out. They may eventually puncture through. Has anyone else experienced this?