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Old 12-19-2012, 02:24 PM   #15
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If I have the RV plugged into shore power at home does that also keep the house batteries charged? Is there normally something built in that does the proper trickle charging?

And another question... For the two house batteries, which Batteryminder would be a good choice?
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:20 PM   #16
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Different RV's have different charging schemes. My class A's had 4 ea 6v deep cycle (golf cart) batteries. They were isolated from the 2 chassis batteries except when the spring loaded emergency start switch was activated.

Most alternators are not capable of charging all 6 batteries if they are significantly discharged. This is one of the primary reasons for that design. Plus the advantage of having isolated power sources.

I did a modification on mine that enabled me to leave the emergency start relay engaged so, if my house batteries were charged, I could keep them charged with the alternator as I drove. I put a light here to remind me that switch was on. Turned it off when I stopped.

I now have a B+ and my charger works both ways with current limiter and isolation electronics which prevents discharging or overcharging of either the house or chassis batteries, so they are isolated for discharge functions but both will charge from the genny, or engine alternator as required,

Only have 2 house and 1 chassis battery now. Do not have an emergency start switch but can use jumper cables if I need to, but I have not done that yet. If the vehicle won't start and the gen will, I just run the gen until the chassis batt is charged enough to start the engine. The reverse applies to the house batteries. I.e run the engine and the house batteries charge.

As I noted above there are isolation devices to prevent the discharge from either electrical network.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focker View Post
If I have the RV plugged into shore power at home does that also keep the house batteries charged? Is there normally something built in that does the proper trickle charging?

And another question... For the two house batteries, which Batteryminder would be a good choice?
Scott...good question. Simple answer is yes, the Outlaw has a 12VDC Converter/Charger as standard equipment in the service bin that makes 12Volts from the Shore Power Cord connection.

BUT, the problem with using the factory "Converter/Charger" in storage is that it IS NOT a trickle charger. It is designed to support your 12VDC needs while you are camping to keep the lights and other 12VDC stuff from draining the batteries.

For storage with shorepower, I would turn off the "charger/converter" breaker on the interior fuse panel and use a Battery Minder or "float charger" type device. These will do a much better job of conditioning and maintaining the house battery bank.

If you get a float charger, ensure it has the capacity needed for the 2-6 volt RV house battery bank like those made by the Battery Minder brand.
Batteryminders Specials | BatteryMinders.com
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:26 PM   #18
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Scott...good question. Simple answer is yes, the Outlaw has a 12VDC Converter/Charger as standard equipment in the service bin that makes 12Volts from the Shore Power Cord connection.

BUT, the problem with using the factory "Converter/Charger" in storage is that it IS NOT a trickle charger. It is designed to support your 12VDC needs while you are camping to keep the lights and other 12VDC stuff from draining the batteries.

For storage with shorepower, I would turn off the "charger/converter" breaker on the interior fuse panel and use a Battery Minder or "float charger" type device. These will do a much better job of conditioning and maintaining the house battery bank.

If you get a float charger, ensure it has the capacity needed for the 2-6 volt RV house battery bank like those made by the Battery Minder brand.
Batteryminders Specials | BatteryMinders.com
That is a bunch of good information! I am slowly getting a good handle on everything for this rig but it does sure does take some time. Any suggestion which BatteryMinder would be a good choice?
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:20 PM   #19
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That is a bunch of good information! I am slowly getting a good handle on everything for this rig but it does sure does take some time. Any suggestion which BatteryMinder would be a good choice?
I have them on my Buells, boat batteries, and pick-up that sits alot...don't have any experience with these for the big coach battery bank.

The link above is for their large RV unit. Im sure their website has more details.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:02 AM   #20
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I have them on my Buells, boat batteries, and pick-up that sits alot...don't have any experience with these for the big coach battery bank.

The link above is for their large RV unit. Im sure their website has more details.
Couldn't find any good details on the website for which one to use but I sent an email to the company. I use a Battery Tender for my motorcycles and that has always been great. On a side note, which Buells do you have? Any other bikes?
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:07 AM   #21
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I have the 12248 and it has worked great for two years now. I also purchased extra ring terminal quick connects for both my chassis battery and house batteries.

Just remember to disconnect your house batteries when using the charger.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:06 AM   #22
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On a 2007 Damon I will assume you have an Intelletec Bi-direcitonal isolator under the hood (Says Battery Control Center on the cover)

Yes, so long as the batteries are not in STORE mode, the engine charges everything, So does the house converter.

NOTE that to fully charge batteries, no matter the power source, takes HOURS.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:53 PM   #23
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On your 2007 Daybreak, the factory installed battery charger is a three stage charger with wizard controller built in. IE it has a built in trickle charge function in the charger.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #24
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I use a Battery Tender for my motorcycles and that has always been great. On a side note, which Buells do you have? Any other bikes?
Scott, my stable has a 2001 S3T (last one I could find for sale in NorCal after they discontinued the tube frame models - has only 11 miles on the odometer) and the rare 2000 M2L (L for Low saddle) I sold my 1976 Sportster last year, because I never rode it. And, am drooling over all the used Uly's on Craigslist, but just can't see myself taking a Buell off-road

And back on topic, if the post above is correct, that the OEM charger has a trickle mode, then the float charger isn't needed. But I have no info on that. Gonna look in the service bin - take the model # off the converter/charger - and do a Google search of specs
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:45 PM   #25
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My wife and I have a bunch of bikes and ride quite a bit. I have a Ducati ST4s, a BMW K1200LT and a Suzuki DRZ400s. She has a BMW F800ST and a Yamaha XT250. She wants a BMW 1000RR but I have been telling her that for now I think we have enough cylinders LOL.

Back on topic, because of what jcthorne wrote I called Thor today and they told me that we do infact have a built in charger that does a trickle charge and should be all we need. When you get to your charger let me know what you find.

In other electrical news, I have been thinking about changing the inverter at some point because when I have my phone plugged in an outlet while driving it does some odd things so I am guessing it isn't putting out the cleanest power. I don't think I need to get something bigger just better. Has anyone found an inverter they perfer?
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:15 PM   #26
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By the way, what is 'B+' ?

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Libero View Post
Different RV's have different charging schemes. My class A's had 4 ea 6v deep cycle (golf cart) batteries. They were isolated from the 2 chassis batteries except when the spring loaded emergency start switch was activated.

Most alternators are not capable of charging all 6 batteries if they are significantly discharged. This is one of the primary reasons for that design. Plus the advantage of having isolated power sources.

I did a modification on mine that enabled me to leave the emergency start relay engaged so, if my house batteries were charged, I could keep them charged with the alternator as I drove. I put a light here to remind me that switch was on. Turned it off when I stopped.

I now have a B+ and my charger works both ways with current limiter and isolation electronics which prevents discharging or overcharging of either the house or chassis batteries, so they are isolated for discharge functions but both will charge from the genny, or engine alternator as required,

Only have 2 house and 1 chassis battery now. Do not have an emergency start switch but can use jumper cables if I need to, but I have not done that yet. If the vehicle won't start and the gen will, I just run the gen until the chassis batt is charged enough to start the engine. The reverse applies to the house batteries. I.e run the engine and the house batteries charge.

As I noted above there are isolation devices to prevent the discharge from either electrical network.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:29 PM   #27
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Thanks for the replies to all of you I am going to do some more investigating but I think that for now running the gennie while I take my drive is the best option. From April until Sept it has access to shore power and last year it worked perfectly. I am just trying to avoid a problem during the winter months. Glad to be on the forum I really have enjoyed my year with my Damon and look forward to many more.
The gen needs to be run for an hour a month. When running it should be loaded to about 3/4 full load.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:30 PM   #28
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A B+ is like what is available on a Sprinter chassis. Like this. Link
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