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Old 05-08-2009, 08:09 PM   #15
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2006 Challenger purchased new Spet 2007. Pump and selenoid out. MFG will not honor the warranty as they say it is from the time jacks installed not when coach was sold. Jacks were run up and down maybe a total of 12 times. Currently in shop and will cost me close to $1000 out of pocket. So much for LCI. Given the option I would suggest another brand.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:57 PM   #16
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Ever since I found out that lippert has a way to retract the jacks in the event the system won't, I have carried a two way drill and the bits needed to raise them.
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:02 PM   #17
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Raising Jacks?

KC1 BUD where and how to raise Jacks with drill and what size Bits.

Darrell&Rose 2008 Tuscany
Frankston,Tx
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:41 PM   #18
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Post Lippert (LCI) jacks malfunction

I know more than I'd like about the Lippert jack system in my 07 Damon Tuscany. First of all if you wire the motor in reverse with both the top and bottom wires you can determine if the solenoid is bad because it will work one way but not the other (one direction or another as you reverse or return the wiring). This is a handy way to retract them if you don't mind a little DC sparks coming off at you. In any case, if you'd rather not or that doesn't work for you it's possible but not fun to retract them manually. You have to open both valves on both sides (I believe it's counter-clockwise to go into manual mode and clockwise to return to automatic mode but you can tell but which way it comes loose). For this you need an allen wrench of the right size, I think it was 1/8th although some coaches allow you to do it with a standard screw driver. You have to reach in and far to the left and then come back towards the motor from the side of your coach (passenger side) to access two of the valves, the other two are right there in plain sight. Then to move the jacks you will need a standard 1/4 hex and a 6-8" at least flexible drill extension because that baby is also on the far side of the motor and very difficult to impossible to get into directly. You can buy these at a hardware store, I have two and keep one in the coach at all times. It takes a very long time to spin the motor sufficiently to raise or lower the jacks but you can go either way based on which way you spin your drill as long as those valves are in the manual position. That's the best I can do from memory, my cheat sheet is in the bus which isn't nearby at the moment. Remember to close all four valves back up when you're done with manual mode. Good luck! If you do have to call Lippert it takes awhile to get through the hold music but once you do they do their very best to be helpful. One last thing, there is a circuit breaker on the firewall in that same compartment but on the driver's side - look hard you'll find it. If that's popped open (which my did while I was having jack problems) the panel will light up but nothing will happen!
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
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KC1 BUD where and how to raise Jacks with drill and what size Bits.

Darrell&Rose 2008 Tuscany
Frankston,Tx
Darrell,

On mine the motor that runs the hydraulic system for the jacks are in front of the radiator behind the grill. The motor is mounted on the tank with the valves. The valves have an allen screw on the end of the valve. Turned one way and the jacks operate normally, turned the other allows the jacks to be raised with the drill.
On the end of the motor there is a little sticker and the drill with the bit is inserted there. Run the drill one way and you will lower the jacks and run it the other way will raise the jacks. As far as bit sizes I forget. so what I did was buy a inexpensive set of, I think, SAE allen wrenches, and for the drill I seem to remember that it is a 1/4 inch hex. I am not real sure about the sizes and will check tommorrow and let you know. I do know that some of the bits for the end of the motor are different for older models.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:00 PM   #20
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I realize that this problem was quite a while ago but the jacks on my 2010 D.A. are non operative. Did the new pump solve the problem. Mine's in the shop now. I see on the Lippert website that the pump is nearly $1400. I can't find the breaker but don't think it is that as the panel is live
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:14 PM   #21
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Many times the failure of the Lippert jacking system can be traced to a leaking seal that allows oil to seep onto the motor thereby shorting the motor and disabling the entire system. If you discover jack oil in, around or on the motor, this may in fact be the problem. I had a similar issue on a new Challenger in 2011, and since then, have talked to a number of Lippert customers (at least 4 or 5) who had similar failures.

Bronk
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:54 PM   #22
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Many times the failure of the Lippert jacking system can be traced to a leaking seal that allows oil to seep onto the motor thereby shorting the motor and disabling the entire system. If you discover jack oil in, around or on the motor, this may in fact be the problem. I had a similar issue on a new Challenger in 2011, and since then, have talked to a number of Lippert customers (at least 4 or 5) who had similar failures.

Bronk

2x on this
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:08 PM   #23
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My RV dealer has discovered that the control unit of the Lippert levelling system has leaked fluid into the motor and caused it's failure. Seems to be quite a common problem and disappointing for a 2011 coach. The warranty in only a year. Due to the number of cases has anyone heard about extended warranties from Lippert or any special pricing for replacement units. These complete units, motor, control unit and fluid tank are $1337.00
each. Plus another 4 or 5 hours of labour. OUCH!
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #24
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Call the manufacturer and ask what if anything they can do this is a known problem and a few people have had there system upgraded
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britcanuck View Post
I realize that this problem was quite a while ago but the jacks on my 2010 D.A. are non operative. Did the new pump solve the problem. Mine's in the shop now. I see on the Lippert website that the pump is nearly $1400. I can't find the breaker but don't think it is that as the panel is live
Hi, To answer your questions... 1) yes the new pump did fix it in 2008 and it still works OK. We have not had another problem, or at least not the same problem. I have had the breaker switch off several times when trying to level in areas that exceeded the limits. The fix was to reset the breaker and use wood blocks (I carry 4X6 wood blocks which can be bolted together.

2) the breaker is on the drivers side front "firewall" above the generator. If you don't know it's there you'll not see it.

If no one else sends a Pic I'll take one and post it.

BTW we have done a lot of mods to our 2008 Astoria, each mod has made it much better. We really enjoy the general floor plan and continue to adjust the things we don't like. New captain chairs, desk, solar and 2800W pure sine inverter. Next is going to be a new kitchen sink and slightly longer island.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:47 AM   #26
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As many other readers have said - the folks at Lippert are very helpful. I started out getting ready to order the complete/pump/manifold/reservoir for the system. The parts dept at Lippert were more helpful than tech. support. I had been led to believe that the whole unit needed to be replaced at $1337.00. Parts dept. suggested just the motor and a modification called a coupler that prevented fluid flowing from the manifold back into the motor. Then parts suggested that the motor might be able to be cleaned out with solvent which would only required the coupler for $16.00. Wow! now we're a long way from $1337 for the unit. Turned out my motor was shot but tech at dealership said motor and coupler would fix. So I'm a bit above 50% of the complete unit. It pays to dig for answers. Dave & Janet in parts dept. are gems.
I'd love to see your interior mods particularly pc desk.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:08 PM   #27
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leveling - and PC desk Mod

Desk mod was done by Davis Cabinets in OR. Lots of room, and we didn't really use the sofa bed on that side. I hope the picture comes out OK.

We are so happy with the desk and Davis Cabinets that we are going to have them remake our kitchen island with a larger sink.

BTW the Corian desk top is a perfect match to the kitchen Corian.
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:42 PM   #28
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Looks very nice. We were thinking of doing something similar on the opposite side where the jack-knife sofa is. We'll be through Oregon on our way south this winter so will try to visit them. There is also an interior rebuilder in Washington near Vancouver. Looks like you have a dining table and chairs where we have the dinette. A few weeks ago we had my daughter and two G kids and that's the only time the full sleeping arrangements have been deployed. First priority is the levelling system. Parts are on order so here's hoping. Then I have to find out what is causing a rubbing sound from rear right wheels. Freightliner shop said try without wheel covers. I said rubbing not rattling. Shop said try without wheel covers (dummy) So will try without wheel covers.
Still can't see that breaker on fire wall above genny so if you have a pic-most appreciated.
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