Ace 29.3

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Mousemate1

Was camping two weeks ago at circle m campground in pa and ran across another 29.3 . Tried to catch the owners outside so I could catch there input on there rv but no success.
Nice to see another one being enjoyed.

I have yet to spot another at a campground. Sooner or later it will happen.

[Pubtym]

I'll be changing/upgrading my stock plugs tomorrow to Denso Iridians.

DENSO IRIDIUM TT

-----------------------------------------------------
Upgraded stock plug on generator to E3s.
E3 Spark Plugs

Cross Reference Guide When Switching to E3 Spark Plugs

[Mousemate1]

Was in Cedar point this past week and with the hard rains noticed the black streaks down the side and also the front two driver and passenger Windows.
I just caulked the windows to help prevent leaks but was wondering if if anyone has used either RV rainkap or Eze gutter.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...sl_5d6fyxog1_e

https://www.amazon.com/RainKap-RK28A.../dp/B007HRSMRM

AC did struggle alittle with 92 and no shade.....told my wife might have to add second unit if we go out west for extended time during the summer.

Other than some routine maintenance and another oil change no other issues

[triplewide]

Originally Posted by Mousemate1

Was in Cedar point this past week and with the hard rains noticed the black streaks down the side and also the front two driver and passenger Windows.
I just caulked the windows to help prevent leaks but was wondering if if anyone has used either RV rainkap or Eze gutter.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...sl_5d6fyxog1_e

https://www.amazon.com/RainKap-RK28A.../dp/B007HRSMRM

AC did struggle alittle with 92 and no shade.....told my wife might have to add second unit if we go out west for extended time during the summer.

Other than some routine maintenance and another oil change no other issues

Have not tried either of the items you mentioned.
We were out West last year in September-October. AC was not adequate above 90, which was nearly every day. Just placed order for a Coleman Mach 1 Power Saver. Pulls 10 amps @ 11,000 btu. The Mach 3 Power Saver pulls 11.2 amps @13,500 btu. Others have added second AC and have been able to run both off the factory generator. Hope to have it installed in the next 30 days. Will let you know how/if it works. If we have problems with power, may change factory 15k btu for 13.5k Power Saver.

[Mousemate1]

Originally Posted by triplewide

Have not tried either of the items you mentioned.
We were out West last year in September-October. AC was not adequate above 90, which was nearly every day. Just placed order for a Coleman Mach 1 Power Saver. Pulls 10 amps @ 11,000 btu. The Mach 3 Power Saver pulls 11.2 amps @13,500 btu. Others have added second AC and have been able to run both off the factory generator. Hope to have it installed in the next 30 days. Will let you know how/if it works. If we have problems with power, may change factory 15k btu for 13.5k Power Saver.

triplewide keep us posted on the ac.

also was on another blog and there is a issue with the heater door vents facing inward and rain water soaking the internals of the heater.
I just e-mailed thor warranty and am waiting for a reply.
see attached pic

[triplewide]

Originally Posted by Knightab

Attachment 122945Here is something else I find odd. While working on the fridge I noticed the cover on the furnace. Doesn't this seem to invite water INTO the furnace compartment? I would have thought the vents should be rotated 180 degrees. I looked at the installation paperwork and in their drawings it shows it like it is currently installed but I have to question it. I am thinking a adding perhaps a little canopy over top of the vent to prevent water from running inside. Opinions please.

Also a FYI, I know you guys probably turn your propane off during the winter at the tank, I do and when I went to start the fridge I was having a hard time bleeding the air, I started the stove and had all three burners running but the flame was real small. Tried running the furnace and it would only run for a second or two and shut off. I have dealt with this on my outdoor grill and figured out that when you turn on the valve I think it ices up. So what I did was while the furnace was trying to start I took a hair dryer and warmed up the valve itself and whamo! It took off with a woosh. Check the stove now with the furnace running and had a great flame. I had this issue last summer after the coach set for a while without use but the gas was still on. I am surprised it would happen under those circumstances but it did, took me a while to get it all to fire up.
OOPS I see it rotated my picture but if you look at yours or look at this pic with the exhaust on the bottom it should make sense.

Above is Knightab's post #1236 about it. Forgot to check this out on our unit. Based on Mousemate's post, ours is probably the same way.

Maybe purchase a chrome louver and mount on top of factory louvers? A lot of different ones available on line. I looked some time back for some to vent the generator compartment.

[triplewide]

Just finished insulating the underside of the driver and passengers deck. This is the "u" shaped area in the engine compartment that is above the engine. Also added insulation to the dog house.

The coach noise level now at 65 mph is about the same as our Jeep Grand Cherokee at 70 MPH. Now about 80 DB, was about 85+ DB. Can carry on conversation now with out yelling. Can hear radio at a setting of about 26. Cab seems to be cooler but have not driven long distance yet.

The base for the cab table would get so hot you could not hold your hand on it very long. Seems to stay cool now. Cab seems to be a few degrees cooler now.

Put 2 layers of material everywhere and 3 layers in the center section between the seats, under the table mount.First layer was 10 sheets (about $175) of Dynamat Extreem:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Second and third layers were 3 sheets (about $180) of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Doghouse
REused factory hood liner for second layer
Attachment 132905
Attachment 132906
Engine Compartment
Attachment 132907
Attachment 132908

Used foil tape on hood liner joints, used squeegee. Used roller on first layer.
Attachment 132909

We are happy with the results so far. Worth the effort and $. Will see if it stays in place over the long term.

[Englishjay]

Does anyone know the correct clear caulk used to seal the external trim parts.( non setting?)
I need to redo a bit where the wheel arch meets the body anda bit where the extrution meets the side walll on the slide.
Would like to match the original product if possible to avoid any problems

Also Batterey wise i have 2 breakers in the leisure batterey compartment. The 3rd supply off the batterey doesnt have a breaker. I think thats to the usr / store switch by the door. I manually trip the breakers when parked up. Has stopped the batteries going flat without the hassle of finding the phantom draw

[triplewide]

Just finished adding an 11k BTU Power Saver AC to the rear fan opening.
Amp draw, 23.5 with both ac's running and everything else off or on gas. 24.5 with both ac's and converter on. Uses about 74% of the generator's full load. Both ac's start easily and do not stall the generator.

Have not finished the final power connection yet. Have it hooked temporarily into distribution panel under bed. Have ordered 2 contactors and installed a toggle switch between the two. One contactor will supply power from the distribution panel the other from a cord in the power bay. Will allow me to get shore power for the additional ac from a 120v outlet when available and leave the 30 amp for the rest of the rv. May make an adapter so I can plug the 120 volt cord and 30 amp cord into a 50 amp outlet.

The original 15k BTU ac would pull temp down about 10 degrees below outside temp. Today, with both units running resulted in a 15 degree pull down. I think it would have managed 17 degrees if I left it running long enough. We will be happy with 15 degree pull down, 100 degrees to 85 is tolerable for us. If we are driving and running dash air, we should get 20+/- degree pull down.

Cost was about $850 for parts. Ran the wire through the ceiling using the same chase as the fan wire, through the overhead cab, down the bath wall through wire mold, through the base cab, into the bed compartment. Running the wire was the hardest part. AC install is a breeze once it is on the roof.

[BobMontgomer]

Originally Posted by Mousemate1

triplewide keep us posted on the ac.

also was on another blog and there is a issue with the heater door vents facing inward and rain water soaking the internals of the heater.
I just e-mailed thor warranty and am waiting for a reply.
see attached pic

Yes, I have one too! I have talked to Thor and a replacement is on its way to my dealer.

[Pubtym]

Originally Posted by BobMontgomer

Yes, I have one too! I have talked to Thor and a replacement is on its way to my dealer.

Newer models have no vents.

I have no problems with vents on mine as is.

[Pubtym]

Took a gravel hit. Will need to eventually replace it.

Thoughts?

Order from Thor and have CW R & R?

Order from Thor and have Safelite R & R?

Has anyone see cost of replacement windshield?

[triplewide]

Originally Posted by Pubtym

Took a gravel hit. Will need to eventually replace it.

Thoughts?

Order from Thor and have CW R & R?

Order from Thor and have Safelite R & R?

Has anyone see cost of replacement windshield?

Have never replaced one on an RV. A glass company may be able to fill it.

[Mousemate1]

Originally Posted by Pubtym

Took a gravel hit. Will need to eventually replace it.

Thoughts?

Order from Thor and have CW R & R?

Order from Thor and have Safelite R & R?

Has anyone see cost of replacement windshield?

What did the insurance company say?