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cptxguys · 08-07-2014, 02:14 PM

I have a 2015 that we just picked up (new) the end of June. I've had the side panels off for some other mods, and we do NOT have the insulation. I'm going to wait until winter and see if I have an issue. If so, I'll be filling in with insulation as well!

Arizona Lizards · 08-07-2014, 02:46 PM

Luckily ours was fixed under warranty. We'll see this winter how it went, as we should be full timing by then.

jtseltmann · 08-07-2014, 04:20 PM

Can anyone confirm if removing the side panels allows for enough access to stuff in insulation? The only thing I see is making sure the motors can articulate. Thanks

jtseltmann · 08-07-2014, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trek5

Where did you hook into the power?

Most of the LEDS tap into 12v power behind the main awning/step switch group. I run power and ground up the pantry and then across the roof line to behind where the bunk control is. Lots of pulling apart but I put it back together better than Thor. I use plastic channel to hide wires.

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BigInSeattle · 08-07-2014, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptxguys

I have a 2015 that we just picked up (new) the end of June. I've had the side panels off for some other mods, and we do NOT have the insulation. I'm going to wait until winter and see if I have an issue. If so, I'll be filling in with insulation as well!

You WILL have an issue. Mine had the condensation when the temps were in the 40s - low 50s.

rivraton · 08-08-2014, 12:24 AM

I think this would be a good solution to the problem:

Thorchini · 08-08-2014, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtseltmann

Most of the LEDS tap into 12v power behind the main awning/step switch group. I run power and ground up the pantry and then across the roof line to behind where the bunk control is. Lots of pulling apart but I put it back together better than Thor. I use plastic channel to hide wires.
Attachment 70158

Another good way to hide that cable is to use a piece of crown molding, stain it to match and put a satin clear over it. It will match perfect, and look like it came from teh factory that way.

millwind · 08-08-2014, 09:33 AM

Re: ACE Mods/Upgrades,
Has anyone attempted to close in the huge open area at the rear of the battery/hydraulics bin? (ACE 27.1)

I say 'open area', but in fact there is no rear wall at all to the bin. Except for the incoming electrical and hyd. lines (of which there are many), the bin is completely open (toward the interior chassis) allowing kicked up road grim to enter and coat all the hyd. equipment and the many critical & exposed electrical connections.

Bad enough now, but am visualizing all this equipment becoming coated with the effects of rain, slush, and or snow while underway. Just ugly now, but perhaps seriously detrimental later. Maybe an occasional hosing out, or low pressure washing, but this does not seem an ideal answer a/c all the exposed electric connections, and that will not help while underway.

Am looking for a better idea than mine, which at this time is piecing in some plywood at the rear (slotted for the various incoming lines). However, considering all the incoming lines, I'm afraid that'll not be practable a/c the many openings & little pieces necessary to achieve a secure fit-up. Add to that the idea that all the slots/lines will have to be cushioned against chaffing wherever they enter.

Maybe a better method out there, or am I just making it harder than it is?? This is our 1st MH with such sophisticated (to us) equipment.

Thanks for any input!

bdickson · 08-08-2014, 03:47 PM

I think the battery/hydraulics compartment is left open to allow air circulation since lead acid batteries can give off hydrogen gas. My Thor Challenger is built exactly the same.

millwind · 08-08-2014, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson

I think the battery/hydraulics compartment is left open to allow air circulation since lead acid batteries can give off hydrogen gas. My Thor Challenger is built exactly the same.

Interesting.

My old Fleetwood battery bin was fully enclosed with a screw down lid and rubber gasket & w/vent a few 1" holes in the sides - never a problem in 10 years & 52,000 miles. No dirt either beyond the little that could drift thru the vents.

So, am guessing you stay on top of it with the occasional careful hand cleaning.

THANKS!

jpspinks · 08-09-2014, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptxguys

I have a 2015 that we just picked up (new) the end of June. I've had the side panels off for some other mods, and we do NOT have the insulation. I'm going to wait until winter and see if I have an issue. If so, I'll be filling in with insulation as well!

Can you describe how you removed side panels for you other mods? Do,you have pictures of what you found underneath? We have a Hurricane 34E, not an ACE, but Thor is Thor so would expect similar construction.

cptxguys · 08-09-2014, 07:57 AM

Sure. The side panels are fastened with 4 screws (one in each corner of the panel). They provide access to the bunk motors. I will try to get a few pics this afternoon and post.

cptxguys · 08-09-2014, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtseltmann

Most of the LEDS tap into 12v power behind the main awning/step switch group. I run power and ground up the pantry and then across the roof line to behind where the bunk control is. Lots of pulling apart but I put it back together better than Thor. I use plastic channel to hide wires.
Attachment 70158

I used the 12v power to the bunk (prior to the safety switch cut-off) and installed a matching JR Products switch to control the LED lights.

I installed a single LED light (blue) by drilling a 3/16" hole in the bottom of each storage bin and fishing the wires to the rear. I also fished a 2-wire lead from the 12v power source at the bunk switch across the the front cap (removing both sides of the access panels by the bunk motors) to the driver's side.

It is time consuming, but not 'difficult' to do.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/north4...7645894295830/

cptxguys · 08-09-2014, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtseltmann

Can anyone confirm if removing the side panels allows for enough access to stuff in insulation? The only thing I see is making sure the motors can articulate. Thanks

From what I can tell, after fishing wires across the cap, you could stuff insulation as far as you could reach from each side, but that would leave the center uninsulated. I would guess the best way to reach the middle is to carefully cut an access panel in the back of the center storage bin - thus providing access from the middle toward each end, as well as access from each end toward the middle.

I have a suspicion that it's not going to be fun!