Community Forums

DenverTransplant · 03-30-2017, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dcbenny

Denver have a Windsport 27K with some of same issues front wheel alignment was the best cure for driving. Working on a lotofmods but very interested on the rear screen let me know what you come up with. Looking for those rounded screen corners myself

I finished fabricating the screen using parts I got from Pelland. Initially I only ordered the round corners, and then later ordered the frame sections and square corners too as the local big box places had frame sections in aluminum or brown..no black. Round corners fit perfectly

Pictures are attached. The cross piece was intended to be temporary as I was finding the screen tension was bowing the top section of the frame. After installing the screen, its in there pretty tight and I will probably leave it there. I used ordinary plastic screen material with 0.125" spline.

I haven't installed it yet, but I put strip magnets on the frame (1/2" wide - comes in 10ft lengths). The window frame is aluminum so I have back to back magnets. One set of strips stuck to the screen and one set on the window frame.Had to be careful to get them oriented so they attract rather than repel.

The magnetic pull per inch is pretty weak, but I think around the entire frame will provide enough of a connection without being too strong. And it doesn't have any gaps for the bugs to get in. I was considering a few Velcro sections with weatherstripping between, but Velcro back adhesive is usually not as strong as the Velcro itself and pulling the frame off to open the window would probably pull the Velcro off.

Straatc · 04-02-2017, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DenverTP

I finished fabricating the screen using parts I got from Pelland. Initially I only ordered the round corners, and then later ordered the frame sections and square corners too as the local big box places had frame sections in aluminum or brown..no black. Round corners fit perfectly

Pictures are attached. The cross piece was intended to be temporary as I was finding the screen tension was bowing the top section of the frame. After installing the screen, its in there pretty tight and I will probably leave it there. I used ordinary plastic screen material with 0.125" spline.

I haven't installed it yet, but I put strip magnets on the frame (1/2" wide - comes in 10ft lengths). The window frame is aluminum so I have back to back magnets. One set of strips stuck to the screen and one set on the window frame.Had to be careful to get them oriented so they attract rather than repel.

The magnetic pull per inch is pretty weak, but I think around the entire frame will provide enough of a connection without being too strong. And it doesn't have any gaps for the bugs to get in. I was considering a few Velcro sections with weatherstripping between, but Velcro back adhesive is usually not as strong as the Velcro itself and pulling the frame off to open the window would probably pull the Velcro off.

DenverTP, What did you use for a latch?

Dcbenny · 04-03-2017, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DenverTP

I finished fabricating the screen using parts I got from Pelland. Initially I only ordered the round corners, and then later ordered the frame sections and square corners too as the local big box places had frame sections in aluminum or brown..no black. Round corners fit perfectly

Pictures are attached. The cross piece was intended to be temporary as I was finding the screen tension was bowing the top section of the frame. After installing the screen, its in there pretty tight and I will probably leave it there. I used ordinary plastic screen material with 0.125" spline.

I haven't installed it yet, but I put strip magnets on the frame (1/2" wide - comes in 10ft lengths). The window frame is aluminum so I have back to back magnets. One set of strips stuck to the screen and one set on the window frame.Had to be careful to get them oriented so they attract rather than repel.

The magnetic pull per inch is pretty weak, but I think around the entire frame will provide enough of a connection without being too strong. And it doesn't have any gaps for the bugs to get in. I was considering a few Velcro sections with weatherstripping between, but Velcro back adhesive is usually not as strong as the Velcro itself and pulling the frame off to open the window would probably pull the Velcro off.

thanks for the update will order material this week this will be great to be able to open up that window and not have to worry about bugs. I saw on Amazon a bar that you can install to open and close the window my Brother has it on his Miramar

Products-013-242-Exit-Window-Latch/dp/B00B2ASZ18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491223152&sr=8-1&keywords=rv+emergency+window+latch

rivraton · 04-03-2017, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dcbenny

thanks for the update will order material this week this will be great to be able to open up that window and not have to worry about bugs. I saw on Amazon a bar that you can install to open and close the window my Brother has it on his Miramar

Products-013-242-Exit-Window-Latch/dp/B00B2ASZ18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491223152&sr=8-1&keywords=rv+emergency+window+latch

https://www.amazon.com/Products-013-...t+window+latch

ctpres · 04-04-2017, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DenverTP

I finished fabricating the screen using parts I got from Pelland. Initially I only ordered the round corners, and then later ordered the frame sections and square corners too as the local big box places had frame sections in aluminum or brown..no black. Round corners fit perfectly

Pictures are attached. The cross piece was intended to be temporary as I was finding the screen tension was bowing the top section of the frame. After installing the screen, its in there pretty tight and I will probably leave it there. I used ordinary plastic screen material with 0.125" spline.

I haven't installed it yet, but I put strip magnets on the frame (1/2" wide - comes in 10ft lengths). The window frame is aluminum so I have back to back magnets. One set of strips stuck to the screen and one set on the window frame.Had to be careful to get them oriented so they attract rather than repel.

The magnetic pull per inch is pretty weak, but I think around the entire frame will provide enough of a connection without being too strong. And it doesn't have any gaps for the bugs to get in. I was considering a few Velcro sections with weatherstripping between, but Velcro back adhesive is usually not as strong as the Velcro itself and pulling the frame off to open the window would probably pull the Velcro off.

Fact that your window did not come with a screen indicates that it is probably an emergency exit window. Be VERY careful how far you open it. Our Thor exit window is a break-away ie if opened far enough window disconnects from hinge and falls to the ground! I was lucky to catch mine. Reconnecting to hinge was VERY difficult and ended up being a two man job. One outside and one inside.

divingdoc · 04-04-2017, 11:41 PM

What size ACE do you have. How did you change shocks and how hard was it. I do not have any jacks for my 27 ft and what Konis did you use. I like the rest of our set up on the raio etc. What did you mean by the track bar, was it the safety plus steering bar or what and about how much was the allignment. Thks for any help you can give me

triplewide · 04-05-2017, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by divingdoc

What size ACE do you have. How did you change shocks and how hard was it. I do not have any jacks for my 27 ft and what Konis did you use. I like the rest of our set up on the raio etc. What did you mean by the track bar, was it the safety plus steering bar or what and about how much was the allignment. Thks for any help you can give me

Had alignment checked for first time last month. No adjustment required. Coach has about 10 K miles on it. Ford Truck in Greensboro, NC charged $130.

triplewide · 04-06-2017, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by divingdoc

What size ACE do you have. How did you change shocks and how hard was it. I do not have any jacks for my 27 ft and what Konis did you use. I like the rest of our set up on the raio etc. What did you mean by the track bar, was it the safety plus steering bar or what and about how much was the allignment. Thks for any help you can give me

Track bar came installed from factory on mine at front axle. I added one to rear, big improvement in handling. Expensive though. Used Blue Ox brand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8Km6Cb3-HY

Installed safety steer also, reduced "sawing" of steering wheel which reduced driving fatigue. The Roadmaster I used is a spring damper attached to front axle and steering tie rod.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_wY6P4QTVo

EricGT · 04-06-2017, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Be VERY careful how far you open it. Our Thor exit window is a break-away ie if opened far enough window disconnects from hinge and falls to the ground! I was lucky to catch mine.

Wow, I did not know this!
I too have wondered how I can turn that rear window into something useful. The bedroom gets a tad warm requiring me to run the a/c often times.
It's a shame being as how large that window opening is and would definitely allow the fan to move a lot of air if opened.

BigInSeattle · 04-25-2017, 10:48 AM

Not really a mod, but a fix for my broken Jensen JRV212T. I went with a dedicated screen for my cameras. The video system in the old radio is just the Voyager system from Jensen so all of the wires match up and it only took me maybe an hour to install. When I am ready for a new radio I can just pick out whatever I want without having to worry about compatability with the camera system. Also, I don't have to take my eyes too far off the road to see what's happening on the cameras.

I'm going to change the mount from the X mount since the screen is a little too deep for it. RAM makes an AMPS compatible mount. It's actually the same as the base I screwed into the dash.

Hudsoner · 04-26-2017, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigInSeattle

RAM makes an AMPS compatible mount. It's actually the same as the base I screwed into the dash.

I use a RAM mount for my 8" Tablet I use for the CoPilot GPS, and I am really happy with it. It is a really solid mount and eliminates almost all unwanted vibrations.

triplewide · 04-27-2017, 02:04 AM

Nice! Easier to see while driving.

dmurray · 05-29-2017, 10:26 AM

ok...This will be one of two questions. wonder if anyone has a solution (ok.. SOMEone does... please share?)

Question 1. 2013 ACE 30.1. New to us. Has anyone relocated the electric panel from under the FOOT of the bed (where no one can get to it) to a more accessible location, even if its on the side of the bed? Fuse Blows? Slide is in. how in the world can you ever get to the panel if the bed is tight against the cabinets, and the panel is located as-is from the factory. Someone DEFINATELY brain-farted that placement decision!

The example JUST came tomind, but what i really wanted was a way to flip the convertor breaker while underway, so I can run the Invertor (just getting it, and want to 'hard-wire' to the AC side...)

dmurray · 05-29-2017, 10:30 AM

Question 2 of 2 (for now) does anyone know how the front dropdown bunk magnets are attached? they are woefully inadequate. I've purchase a couple honkin neodynium magnets (450#) to swap out the little magnets, and just want to 'pop' them off, but don't want to damage the plastic 'mounts' they are attached to. They seem to be free-swiveling, but I don't see any screws.

The problem is the front bed always seems to release from the magnets while underway. Freaks out the DW. the new magnets WILL hold it up. but I need to popthe old ones off first.

Help? thoughts?