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Old 10-11-2017, 05:28 AM   #1
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Hot Countertops

Using furnace in our 2017 Super C for the first time. Countertops and contents of drawers are very hot. I understand that heat is needed to protect the plumbing, but this seems extreme. Is it possible that a duct is leaking? Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:49 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Capnsteve60 View Post
Using furnace in our 2017 Super C for the first time. Countertops and contents of drawers are very hot. I understand that heat is needed to protect the plumbing, but this seems extreme. Is it possible that a duct is leaking? Thanks.
Yup! Bet a flex duct hose came off or was never connected at factory. Should be any easy fix.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:12 AM   #3
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Your furnace is in the same cabinet and their is lots of ambient air heating because of this. It will not hurt to pull out a few drawers and see, but I know mine are intact and it gets rather warm.
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:11 PM   #4
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I finally had some time to really work on this. Found an opening on the right end of the furnace that was spitting out a lot of heat. I reached around (couldn’t see it) and promptly burned my finger. After looking with a mirror, there is a tube just inside the opening that will easily blister a finger.

Went to several stores and finally found some metallic tape, folded several layers of aluminum foil and was able to seal three sides of the opening. Now counters and sink are warm, but not too hot to touch. The biggest part of my problem solved, but one more issue...

All of the furnace and venting are in the massive full slide out. Across the hall is the bathroom with a vent and duct under the shower. The duct goes into the floor. Does anyone know if this is supposed to deliver hot air to the bathroom? No heat comes out, but I can’t imagine how it could tie in to the items contained in the slide out. If anyone can she light on this, I would greatly appreciate it!
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:48 AM   #5
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Steve, There will be a gray flexible hose that is more like a fabric than the metal ones. It will connect to the metal duct that runs under the floor to under the fridge. The connection should be behind the trash can. It comes back up under the fridge and goes to the vent in the curved wall and bathroom. You can remove the drawer under the fridge to get to that end. It may be possible that with everything that is moving under the sink that it may need to be rerouted a bit. While you are there, you may want to change the flexible plastic lines to the sink with stainless lines that are 6 inches longer and harder to crimp by accident. When the heat is on, you can pull out the drawer under the fridge and see if it is blowing hot air underneath.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:54 AM   #6
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Thanks. I’ll look at it over the weekend.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:47 PM   #7
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Cab radio won’t light up. Checked fuse and it checks good. Wouldn’t mind losing the radio, but I miss my cameras. Any thoughts on what to check.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:35 PM   #8
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Now it seems to be working. Turned key and it seems okay. I guess it’s a false alarm or a short.
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Old 03-11-2018, 11:34 AM   #9
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Now that we’re on the way home, won’t work again. Hmmmm
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:24 PM   #10
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There’s no cure for stupidity! Realized the battery switch accidentally went to store. Dash unit works great, again.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:31 PM   #11
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Good Deal

I'm glad you got the radio issue settled.

Did you get any resolution to the bathroom heat issue?
We were at Wakarusa the last week of February and that was on our list. Jim said the duct reduces in size where it connects at the duct near the fridge. Since there are other ducts to the living area, he partially blocked the one at the fridge to direct more heat to the bathroom.
Also, the my heat chamber had a bad crimp too. He used a high temp tape with a foil backing to seal it.
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:13 AM   #12
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Still struggling with the bathroom heat issue. Our unit has a full wall slide out that houses the furnace and the fridge. It’s hard for me to understand how any duct from the furnace can be routed under the floor unless I could see the ducting when the slide is extended. All other heating is routed up and down the full wall slide.
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Old 03-22-2018, 01:03 AM   #13
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Ok....I thought we had the exact same floor plans, but my fridge is opposite the oven and isn't in the slide.

Lemme look at floor plans and see what I can come up with.
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:11 AM   #14
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If I found the right floor plan, you will have a flex vent that is hooked to a hard vent line just behind either the vent or false drawer front at the bottom of the counter. The bottom of the cabinet will have an oblong cut out in the bottom of the cabinet to allow the slide to move around it. From there the duct will cross under the floor and probably come up under the shower and make a 90 turn to the vent. I don't know if it will be flex or rigid. If you have an IR thermometer, you can probably track that duct across the coach. You can carefully remove the outer vent louver (is snaps in the center) and look to see if you see an obstruction. You may want to invest in an inexpensive scope / camera and look inside the vent.
I honestly just think that crossover is a weak spot for the heating system. The more I think about it, the more I actually may totally obstruct my vent from the crossover that comes out into the living area and force all the crossover heat into the bathroom. Between electric heaters, we run the LP furnace only when the electric can't keep up or for faster heating when the coach temp is cold from no or low heat.
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