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Old 01-12-2015, 02:19 PM   #1
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Well, i went to the RV to find my house batteries dead. Switch was off and yet something is still drawing power. Add that to the list of things wrong...

Generator won't start also. Maybe that is related maybe not. The error code is 34. I did a complete oil change and still the gen won't start. What is weird though is that if I was able to get it started yesterday at the gen switch by messing with the choke mechanism or whatever on the top there. When it was started finally and keep on, it ran perfectly. It has been run and only sat quiet for a few weeks because it wouldn't start. I can't really troubleshoot more...CW already messed with the gen and installed the heat shield etc...it was running perfectly up until Nov, after a day of running, it just would not start back up. Been toast since then.

Started to track down why the perfectly good batteries were dead. Realized the Shore power was not charging the batteries, but the engine running was. Dug under the bed where the converter is and was looking around. Sure enough found a completely loose ground wire that pulled off by hand. That is great quality! Reconnected and tested and sure enough shore power now charges batteries. I think they are toast though because I tested them after a full night of charging and there is only about 12.4 v (about 13.5 when charging). Not sure if that could be the cause of the genny not starting and staying on.

This brings up something else I saw...as i'm researching the parallel batteries...i see that thor used different length cables to connect the house batteries. Something I read about that should not be done. I already found that they should have connected the coach Pos and Neg to different batteries to get the most out of the parallel setup. They did not do that either. Both things I'm going to correct but really silly.

So i'm not happy again to have to keep screwing around with this coach after this much time but I do lover her and she needs to be taken care of. At this point i think i have to replace batteries and then fix cables and see if the gen wasn't getting enough voltage? Although I tried running the gen when the engine was on and that didn't help.

Oh well, thanks for listening all...very frustrated.
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:14 PM   #2
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Check the batteries by doing a specific gravity test and then charge them fully and take to an auto parts store that does free load tests.
It's not unusual for phantom loads to still be connected even after the battery disconnect switch has been thrown. Do you have a stereo in the bedroom? LP detector? electric steps? remote locks? All of those can be wired to bypass the battery isolation switch. You can check by turning the switch off, disconnect a cable to the battery and measure the amperage in the gap between post and cable. (Even a 12 v bulb will show how much is flowing)

As to your generator, you've learned that Camping World (and other RV dealers) may do an O.K. job on systems pertaining to the living quarters, but engine work should be taken to a service center for your engine and/or chassis. A generator should be taken to a Cummins Onan center for best service.

I'd assume you're still under warranty, I'd get signed up soon for the gennie maker to do the service.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:16 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. Yea I'll do some more digging. Will test the load on disconnected battery. Though it was probably never being charged correctly as it was not receiving a proper charge unless I was driving. I wonder if they are damaged beyond repair.

The gen is weird. It runs smooth and fine when I monkey with it and get it going but I can't start via switch alone. So what can cause a problem with starting only? Very weird.

It's hard to work on being so tight. I'm still reading what i can do to check parts.
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Old 01-13-2015, 11:22 AM   #4
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How much difference is there in the battery cable's length? With normal battery gauge wire I wouldn't think a couple of inches would make much difference.

You mentioned a choke on the generator so it must be gasoline powered. I'd think since you've got starting problems it might have to do with the auto choke operation.

"Screwing around" to keep all RV systems going seems to be a fact of life. Enjoy the challenge.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:26 AM   #5
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My coach batteries were dead as stone on our last trip. I found this out at 3 am in a Walmart parking lot freezing to death! Manufactured sticker says 11/13. The funny thing is they don't show a ground out or an open short just low amps. (I have a tester). Cells were not dry which would mean over charging. Just poorly built I guess. Coach is at the dealer for our last warranty service so they better be covered! We will see. Thor Batteries
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:03 PM   #6
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Lp detector will draw a battery down, it bypasses the switch.
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:28 AM   #7
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The salesman switch itself will drain some power, even when in the disconnect position.

We store in a lot with no power, so a small solar cell made for an automobile keeps our batteries topped off and ready to use.

The gennie is started with the house batteries...no juice, no gennie start.

Totally agree with Bob and Donna's post above..RV's share more in common with homes than cars. It always seems to need a little something. This is common to all brands and market segments.

Safe travels
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Old 01-22-2015, 05:50 AM   #8
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HIGH INVERTER TEMPERATURE FAULT—CODE NO. 34
This is from an ONAN owner's manual, I did not check to see if that is always the case (different models may or may not use the same codes).

I can not think how this would happen unless 1: The generator was running, and running hot, 2: Full sunlight in Arizonia IN August (or close to it), 3: Faulty temp sensor or bad connection internal to the generator.

In any case, I would NOT BLAME THOR for this one,, Cummins yes, THOR no.
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