OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes

[JeffAZ]

Yes, good find on that little USB device, Steve.

So I want to add a small 12v tv to the space above the main entry door where there is now a shallow cabinet. There was an OTL model a few years ago that had a tv there as standard equipment. I know there is steel behind the wall there. So do I just attach the mount with 4 metal screws there? The tv only weighs 13 lbs.

The mount attaches to the wall with 2 screws arranged vertically about 4 inches apart.

[Scarab0088]

This one is a good one, Jeff.
That TV gets used all the time.

Did you see my first attempt? HERE

I did not like how the TV could not be pivoted to face around, so I added an inexpensive articulated mount on the interior wall of the cabinet using another quick release mount like used in the loft, garage, and exterior bay.

It fits inside the cabinet when closed. Power is from the cabinet on the left. Cable came from the front via another simple piece of corner molding/channel like I used for the big TV's HDMI






Safe Outlaw Mods

[JeffAZ]

Yes, that's just what I am attempting, Steve. So could you put the mounting screws into the steel backer, or did it need a walldog or something like that?

[Scarab0088]

Jeff,
According to my high-tech build planning device - a small block magnet from Home Depot - there was steel backer there. It appears to be a rather big sheet that goes almost the full width of the cabinet backwall.

I have walked all around the Outlaw with the magnet looking for places where it sticks...and found steel backer in the walls in SO MANY spots - it is amazing. Like the garage walls are like almost covered with it.

AND please double check this on your Outlaw. I believe it has been proven time and time that each of these monsters are handmade and no two are exactly alike.

Best luck

[JeffAZ]

Ya, thanks Steve. I have a bunch of magnets from my home-made magnashield that are super-strong. So just some metal screws into the steel backer, then?

BTW, I have been spending the last 3 weeks putting an epoxy/polyurethane floor covering in the rv garage, while simultaneously trying to get the OTL ready for an epic trip to Nebraska-Seattle and back to AZ over a 6 week period. I just dropped he OTL off in the shop right now, getting 4 Koni shocks installed.

Also getting the front captain's chairs recovered, but it looks like only one will be done before I leave next week. I'm also trying to get the Euro recliner (also with the defective OEM material) replaced with a recliner that also has a retractable footrest. But for some unknown reason, the manufacturers have switched to a design that does not allow the chair base to be screwed to the floor like the old original, and still swivel.
So I have been hoping to find a old design chair that would work much better. I guess they just expect the new-design chair to not be attached to the floor, what sense does that even make?

Anyway here are some photos of the garage floor, turned out pretty good

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[Oldphart]

I haven't posted in a long time, mostly because we haven't been RVing much. As a result we've decided to sell our Outlaw. If anyone is interested please visit the iRV2 Classified area or PM me for description, pricing and details.

Just want to say thanks to all of you, but especially Steve for all the information I've gained over the years.

Happy Trails

[Mike Bachman]

OK, the awning at the reel end seems to be moving towards the back of the Outlaw. I've tried giving the awning some slack and then trying to pull it back, but with no luck. What's the secret to getting it to move?

[Scarab0088]

Mike,

5 Big Dogs? Wow. That must be an Outlaw Adventure going on trips with whole fur family

Is the fabric sliding rearward at the reel? That would typically means the arms are not even and the fabric is rolling-up like a ice cream cone (?).

If so, try sliding the roll-up strap toward the end of the awning that seems to be rolling-up too fast. Control the roll-up....loosen the end that is too tight.

Best luck

[joanjeff]

There is a Xantrex 3012 Pure Sine inverter/charger with control panel listed on the swap board at work for $500. Is it too good of a deal to ignore? Our 2013 3611 Outlaw currently has a Progressive Dynamics PD9280C Charger/Converter and a World Friendship Co (WFCO) WF-600TH-112 600 watt pure sine inverter. That is not high end equipment from what I read on the solar forums.

We just bought the rig, so I don't know if I will be happy or not long-term with the current factory setup. We just installed 400 watts of solar which is adequate for the two GC2 6V Interstate batteries that came with the coach. The current solar and battery setup would be underkill for the Xantrex, but with the Xantrex and bigger batteries, we could rewire to run the microwave (heck, just about anything 120V except roof AC) off battery power and wouldn't need to start up the genny. The Xantrex has options to add an auto-genny start, I believe also....

[Scarab0088]

If I read right, the Xantrex3012 is an all-in-one 3000W model inverter with a built-in a 150Amp charger.
Inverter Charger | Freedom SW Inverter/Charger | Xantrex

Pretty impressive. But please notice this will be a major upgrade, to pull the PD charger/converter and WFCO Inverter - then put everything back to the all-in-one.
Plus you lose the redundancy of two separate units.

Current Outlaws use a Xantrex model inverter too, WFCO is OK, but I believe you are right, not the same quality as Xantrex.

Yes, you will want to upgrade your battery bank to realize the benefits from that Xantrex...but...

...I submit that a "system" approach is a great goal, however each component can be addressed separately. The bits are:
*Batteries - (your Goal is total usable AMPs before you need to charge - up to you).
*Charger/Converter - (this uses 110VAC and needs to supply the RV under normal use AND charge the batteries in an efficient manner - up to you).
*Inverter - (your Goal of usable Watts is totally - up to you).
*Solar - (your Goal is a balance - how much to acquire and how much power do you expect to collect each day - up to you).

All these things are going to be based on your use of the systems. No two owners will be exactly the same.

Best luck

[joanjeff]

I will look over the wire routings on the coach and read up on the install specs for the Xantrex. The solar install was staightforward for me and my husband with everything in 2 back to back bays, but this would definitely require some new Rolex install between the power bay and the current location of the inverter and CB panel. I will crawl under the coach to make a plan. The seller is supposed to get me more details at the end of the week. If it all looks good, I may get it and put it on the shelf until the winter when we have time for a major project.

[Robsauto]

Hi everyone, I have a lot of improvements, mods, repairs, etc. to share if you want them. Here is my way to dump the tanks and keep all the dirty waste water out of the compartment. Swivel the dump valve straight down, cut out a hole and install a 90 degree on the outlet.

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by Robsauto

Hi everyone, I have a lot of improvements, mods, repairs, etc. to share if you want them. Here is my way to dump the tanks and keep all the dirty waste water out of the compartment. Swivel the dump valve straight down, cut out a hole and install a 90 degree on the outlet.

Great Mod...You are now posted on the page1 index
Yes, please share any and all your mods and fixes

You have a 2013 3611? That is funny that TMC put the hole so far off center to the dump yoke. Our port hole is almost perfectly under the yoke with just a 45' elbow when the yoke is at a horizontal position....really don't need the elbow, but seeing the "progression" is nice


We pivot (really I, 'cuz the Mrs. does not do the dump) the yoke and elbow from vertical, open the port hole and attach the dump hose.

No drips in the stowed position.

Was posted HERE.

And, hope you come add your ID HERE.

Safe Outlaw Travels

[Robsauto]

I got tired of climbing upstairs every time I wanted to turn on the heater or A/C. I found the wires to the rear thermostat in the bathroom wall above the main monitor panel so I moved the stat next to the front stat.