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Old 10-20-2014, 11:32 AM   #925
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2014 Thor Outlaw 37-MD Overhead Bunk Issues

1. Overhead bunk (above drivers cab) is functioning improperly.It will not go all the way up to lock in with pins.Driver bumps his head going in and out of cockpit, as a result.Bed seems to be rubbing against drivers’ side wall. Dealer fixed problem....Or so we thought!

2. The repairs did not hold up. The overhead bunk is of great concern. With the "PINS IN" the bed began sagging (front side) on the passenger side on the way home from our tailgate this weekend. The passenger side pin, was literally holding up bed on that side, because I noticed the pin/ring/wire stressed. I moved my wife to the back in fear the cable would snap or come loose, and come down on her. Key was locked in off position. The cables are not right. We simply moved bed down, and had one person (180 pounds) sleep on it. We rolled it up with no problems and inserted the pins for the trip home. The longer we traveled, the more it began sagging. I removed the pins and tried to roll down and re-roll the bed up. This only made the situation worse. Now it is sagging on the passenger side worse than ever.
HAS ANYONE HAD AS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS AS WE HAVE HAD?
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:25 PM   #926
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Sounds like I am better off with the Class A with the loft in the back
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:47 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawHarley View Post
1. Overhead bunk (above drivers cab)...
HAS ANYONE HAD AS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS AS WE HAVE HAD?
OutlawHarley,

The front overhead bunk seems to be a rather complicated device that can sag on it's lift when raised and can get out of alignment (side to side).
I saw a salesman jam one when trying to demonstrate it, and he didn't know how it worked to correct the jam.

There have been several comments about it in this and the I Love My Outlaw thread.

I don't know how it works, but there are several members here that have specific knowledge...stand by for them to stop by.
Hope you don't get discouraged...that bunk is really a very nice option.

Best luck
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:25 PM   #928
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OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes

You need to get the stop points reset and make sure you are putting the pins in the holes properly; there are two sets of holes. Thor authorized my bunk motor to be replaced if I continue having problems. Ever since we had service reset the stop points and install new pins we have not had further problems.

Call Thor directly and explain the problem. Get a service number from them and then take it into your service center of choice. Don't rely on your dealer to figure it out in their own because they won't.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:30 PM   #929
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Shop Time

I purchased my 2015 Outlaw LS on August 1 , 2014. I have now owned the RV for a total of 82 days. It has been in repair a total of 47 days. I am due to pick it up this Saturday. I hope they fixed everything on my list once and for all. I want to start using the damn thing, the weather down here is perfect. I need a suggestion on how to fix the non slip surface on the ramp to where it is a real non slip surface. My HD Street Glide slides down the ramp non stop even when I apply the brakes. Can I screw some sort of material onto the ramp so that when the wheels hit the stuff, it will stop the bike from sliding? Last time I came down the ramp, I dropped the bike. No damage except to my ego. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, has a permanent fix been found for the leaking wind shield? The dealer resealed the wind shield while still in the shop. I just don't think it will last.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:16 PM   #930
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HPYCAMPER2,

Don't feel bad...it's happened before.

Our trick is - with the engine off/bike in gear, use the clutch and front brake (your hands) to slow the exit, keeping both feet on the ramp.

I added traction pads from a garden tractor supply, as well.
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These pads are a little hard on bare feet when using it as a party patio, but better then dropping the bike.
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Need to get a picture with both bikes in the garage

The windshield is a different story. This issue has caused some here to have a shop reset it to seal gaps

Safe travels
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:25 PM   #931
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My full dress Harley goes down the ramp with out the front tire skidding provided I use both front and rear breaks together. There is not enough weight over front wheel for front breaks alone to stop bike when going down the ramp backwards.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #932
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Have you guys thought about adding a small 2000 lb winch with remote control to load and unload you bikes? You can pick them up cheap and they come with a wireless remote control on a Key Fob. Sure would make backing it down your ramp a piece of cake. You could straddle the seat and push the button with your left hand while in neutral, and work the brakes with your right hand.

I have built a bike carrier on the back of my Fleetwood Limited FERD and use a simple 2K winch with one of these key fob controls to load and hold the 600 lb bike to the ramp. Sure make me a lot more confident unloading my Big Touring Bike with a winch to let it down slow and easy.




But I should explain that my system is different than what you're thinking because my ramp rotates on a pin on the left side. As it rotate it lowers the rail tip to the ground. I then roll the bike up the rail/ ramp with the winch and tie the bike off to the rail arms. Then let off the winch and run the cable to a snatch block pulley near the back tire. Hook the end of the cable to the right side reciever post and pull the rail back up to horizontal to the rear of the MH, raising the rail as it rotates. So, basically my ramp is my bike rail.

Now if you're scratching your head and want to know more about this system it's called 'The Red Ant Motorcycle Carrier". Google the Patents Office for it and you can see the drawings and official description.

I use to work for the factory back in the early 70's building these things.
And being the Engineer Type, I decided to build me one last year to haul one of my Dual Sport Bikes on the back of my Fleetwood. It works great for my application.

I hang out here because I'm thinking I'd like to own an Outlaw one of these days and dispense with being limited with how many toys I can take with me. Plus I like the security your garages have.

I'm remodeling the rail system to transfer to the back of my pickup truck as well, I don't have any pictures to share.

Just thought I'd throw out the winch idea. I have a second one mounted on a plate and I have a trailer ball mounted on the floor of my car trailer to hook it to, for loading cars and junk that don't run.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:27 AM   #933
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Curtis I think if you tried loading/unloading from an Outlaw you would find it would be something you just don't need. I am not the tallest guy (5'9") and still it is really easy to load and unload the bikes from the Outlaw, it takes just seconds and never once have I felt I was going to drop a bike.
>>I should add that I have everything from a 850 pound BMW K1200LT to a very light KTM.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #934
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Put the bike in first gear and slip the clutch along with the front brake. Works like a charm.
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:30 AM   #935
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I have been carrying a remote winch from Harbor Freight for years for the day my Full dress Harley can't make it up the ramp under her own power.
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Old 10-23-2014, 01:46 PM   #936
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I carry a winch in mine too. I use it to pull the toolbox in and it came in handy for the Kawasaki when I rolled it out and then realized I left the key at home.
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Old 10-23-2014, 01:53 PM   #937
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Steve,

Thank you for all your help!! Once I figured what to put in a Google search, I came up with this unit from Hopkins. It will work for the LED lights on the trailer and I only have to deal with wiring one end. Now I can have both brake lights and turn indicators!!
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:16 PM   #938
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Thought I'd share a couple pictures of the atlas, cell phone, reading glasses, and cup holder with a pull out desk I just made for the passenger side of my Outlaw. I guess it qualifies as a mod. Ours didn't come with the computer desk on the dash like the newer ones have.

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