Remove and replace gray tank 2012 ACE 29.2

[FredKate]

Has anyone had any experience pulling the gray tank from this model? I have a leak just inside of the tank gate valve sat the point where the drain pipe attaches to the tank. I tried a few shots of flex seal and that took care of the leak for a couple of years but now the leak is back and needs a more permanent repair.


Any advice would be appreciated.

Fred C.

[triplewide]

If some one on this forum does not know, you might try calling a tank manufacturer to see what type sealant/repair is available.


Maybe something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__dfAgJ35Fk

If all else fails, you could try to melt/weld the crack with at soldering iron before removing the tank. Videos on Youtube. Could you fashion a piece of poly to fit around the outlet ( in 2 pieces) silicone the area around the crack, then place the fabricated poly "collars" over the silicone slathered crack. screw or pop rivet the collars to the tank. You don't have to hold much pressure.


Good luck with repair attempts, changing the tank does not sound like fun.

[FredKate]

Originally Posted by triplewide

If some one on this forum does not know, you might try calling a tank manufacturer to see what type sealant/repair is available.


Maybe something like this:

If all else fails, you could try to melt/weld the crack with at soldering iron before removing the tank. Videos on Youtube. Could you fashion a piece of poly to fit around the outlet ( in 2 pieces) silicone the area around the crack, then place the fabricated poly "collars" over the silicone slathered crack. screw or pop rivet the collars to the tank. You don't have to hold much pressure.


Good luck with repair attempts, changing the tank does not sound like fun.

I can only reach the point of the leak, barely and with many arm scratches, with the fingertips of one hand. It is about 36 inches in from the side of the coach. I have no doubt that there are several methods that will work to stop the leak, if I could get my hands on it.

I have thought about cutting an access panel in the supporting plywood directly under the fitting and working on it from below. I would have to be working above the muffler and space is tight there as well, but it looks doable.

[triplewide]

Oh yea, would have to be in a place that is difficult to reach. Some might say: "Gray water- what leak?"


JK


When replacing the tank I wonder how hard it is to make the connections from the existing plumbing drops? Good luck with the project.

[FredKate]

Originally Posted by triplewide

Oh yea, would have to be in a place that is difficult to reach. Some might say: "Gray water- what leak?"


JK


When replacing the tank I wonder how hard it is to make the connections from the existing plumbing drops? Good luck with the project.

If it was just a drip from the tank to the ground, I might not be concerned. However, the dripping water creates a puddle under the tank that eventually runs over the edge and into a storage comparment. The build up of stuff starts to smell in a day or so. Today I'm going to remove both gate valves and the attached drain pipes to try and get a little more working room and a better view of the connection at the tank outlet.

I'm not sure how the sink/shower/vent drops connect to the tank...clamps or compression...hopefully not glued and I have to cut

[triplewide]

I have messed with the washer/gray tank connection on my Miramar. On it the drain was forced into the tank through a rubber ring (grommet like). No sealant or glue used. I ended up disconnecting the washer drain from the gray tank and now hook it directly to the sewer drain hose via a wye fitting. No problem as I only use washer with full hookups.


If yours are similar, you might have to change out the tank then reinsert the the drain stub outs from the top? Guess you will have a better idea when/if you pull the tank.

[triplewide]

You might find this thread helpful:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/wel...-500465-2.html